Guest Jack1080 Posted February 27, 2004 Report Share Posted February 27, 2004 The screws on My TD2'S keep coming loose, just wondering if it is ok to use "loctite" or something like it to hold them in place. Will this damage anything on the bindings or on the board? Jack Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Dold Posted March 4, 2004 Report Share Posted March 4, 2004 The only thing that ever really solved the problem for me was using screws that threaded in more than three or four turns. If they tightened fully about a turn before bottoming out, they never loosened. About a month ago I bought a new set of TD-2's and a new board. I tried the grease method after seeing messages here (Slick Honey in fact), and about every other time out the disc-to-board screws loosened. Last night I finally took them off and cleaned away the grease. I can see merit in greasing just the heads though. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Dold Posted March 5, 2004 Report Share Posted March 5, 2004 Does Bomber have longer screws available to mount the disks of the TD2? I'm trying to get ahold of the next length up. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bschurman Posted March 5, 2004 Report Share Posted March 5, 2004 I too would be interested in some 18mm screws for the base plate. I bought some with a 4mm hex socket and I am scared to use them as I might strip the socket out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bschurman Posted March 5, 2004 Report Share Posted March 5, 2004 Bob, once again, thank you. You are always the consummate engineer and always very helpful. Based on our discussion on the phone a few weeks back I did purchase the Stainless Socket Head Flat Screw in the 18mm length that I needed but as you mention in your post it does have the 4mm socket. Which, as you also mentioned might strip under the torque required to properly attach the baseplate. I just thought I would put in my wish list to Fin now in case he might possibly be able to get some made over the summer Dave, I thank you for your offer to bring some down next week with you. But I am currently using my old TD1 with the longer M6 cap screws that are a dime a dozen and it works great. The board in question is an older Coiler with the recessed inserts. All my newer ones don't have this problem and I can mount up my TD2 no problem. I would really like to drop the TD2s on this board and give that a try. (see below for shameless self promotion) Also, don't ask about my left hand. I sometimes think that it moves as though it is unattached to my body. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fin Posted March 5, 2004 Author Report Share Posted March 5, 2004 Hey guys, just to let you know we do sell the longer M6 screws for boards with deeper inserts. They have a total length of 18mm (stock screws are 16mm). But as noted they do have 4mm socket heads so you need to be carefull with them. Longer screws can be found at the Bomber Store HERE Bola: acually it is impossible to over compress the E-Ring under the Cant Disk. The Center Disk bottoms out on the board at a pre-designed point that keeps the E-Ring from being over compressed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steve Dold Posted March 5, 2004 Report Share Posted March 5, 2004 The board with the current problem is a Volkl RT. The only screw that doesn't loosen is the 1/4-28 that is in there thanks to the tapped insert. The difference with that screw (besides size) is the fit is more precise and it threads in about 6 turns or so. Maybe the thread pitch is less too. Thanks for the info guys. Bob, I'll try the thread depth measurement method. Before mounting the plates, I always count how many turns the screws go in til they hit bottom, then count as I tighten the plates on to make sure the number is less. It's not very scientific but at least I know I'm not tightening against the bottom of the insert. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
gdboytyler Posted March 7, 2004 Report Share Posted March 7, 2004 Any idea when you will have more 0 degree cant disks available? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D-Sub Posted March 7, 2004 Report Share Posted March 7, 2004 Ive never had a modern race board, or these TD bindings, but...Ive always used plumbers tape on all my insert screws. just a couple wraps and my screws stay tight way longer than any of my friends boards ever have. I cant see how this would hurt anything, and it definitely seems to help. but again, with no experience with these particular bindings, it might not even be an option. thoughts on this? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D-Sub Posted March 17, 2004 Report Share Posted March 17, 2004 does grease keep screws from loosening too? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D-Sub Posted March 23, 2004 Report Share Posted March 23, 2004 OK..one more question ready to take the plunge with the TD2 step-in questions: 6'2" around 200 pounds. Id say Im a fairly aggressive rider. Since there are no 0* cants left...I guess its 3* front and back? Thats more cant than Ive ever used but I guess that means I can go a little wider on the stance? thinkin about 19 to 19.5" and...the elastomer ring...soft, or medium? Im wondering if since Im used to burton plates with plastic bases, maybe I should go soft? But...with my weight...should I go minimum of medium? I see that zero degree plates will be available in april...but...Id rather not wait...maybe a discount for a second/replacement set? anyway, any help would be appreciated Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jack M Posted March 23, 2004 Report Share Posted March 23, 2004 I think everyone should be on 3/3! I think you'll love it. I'm 5'11" 170 and I'm using 3/3 and medium e-rings, 19.25" stance. With 3/3 you'll probably be able to go wider, like 19.5 or 20". I think you'd probably enjoy the mediums at your weight, but coming from flexy Burton bindings, you might want to start on the softs. They're cheap enough to experiment with anyway. -Jack Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fin Posted March 23, 2004 Author Report Share Posted March 23, 2004 D-Sub, FYI: still on track to have more 0 degree discs in April. However, we will have a few "demoed" 0 degree discs from the SES and ECES. Great shape just a bit used. Call Michelle at 800-277-2037 and we can work this out with you if needed. As a side note, just as Jack said, I would also recommend the 3/3 set-up and medium E-Rings for you. Double lift/cant like the 3/3 set-up has some great benifits and with the new adjustable lift angle you can experiment with various configurations. You are more then welcome to call the above number or e-mail us direct bomber@bomberonline.com and we'll chat with you more on this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D-Sub Posted March 23, 2004 Report Share Posted March 23, 2004 man...how many other companies can you get immediate responses from the head designers? thanks MUCH guys! Will call today Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike T Posted March 24, 2004 Report Share Posted March 24, 2004 Originally posted by Bob Jenney I prefer to have as much suspension in the system as I can. At 195lbs, I run the soft. This provides a bit more edge contact as the terra gets firmer. I'm riding the soft based on this advice and loving it, also at about 195 pounds. I bought the medium too, haven't tried them yet, maybe I will try them after my ankle heals. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D-Sub Posted March 24, 2004 Report Share Posted March 24, 2004 thanks again, guys Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MozzMann Posted June 2, 2004 Report Share Posted June 2, 2004 Hi once again fellas after I haven't been on the forum so long . Away working New season just about to open here in Oz BUT I finally got my TD2's Yummy . But I couldn't get 3 hole disks so I thought of using a block of alloy in the lightening recess to spread the load and drilling the required hole (to suit my Burton Race 85). Any ideas as to wether this will weaken the 4 hole disk by doing so. Also have Guy's n' Gals the Oz Carve Web site should be a goer for the 2004 Oz season, Mainly with Trail maps to indicate the best runs for the carver. I'll be marking some other's in suited to those who like to use hardboots on free ride Boards. Cheers all. Mozz Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fin Posted June 2, 2004 Author Report Share Posted June 2, 2004 MozzMann, Not totally sure what you are trying to do but I am guessing you want to convert a 4 hole disk to 3 hole? Well, being the guy who makes them I would have to say that we do NOT recommend this type of modification. The Center Disk is a key part in holding the entire binding together and we spent a good amount of time making sure there where no "thin" spots on disk that could cause failures. The probelm is you do not have much room above the disk as the clearance between it and the bottom of the Base Plate is almost zero. So you have no choice but to cut into the current disk material and this would be bad as far as strength goes. We will be making a stack more 3 hole disks for next season so if you can wait I would go that route. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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