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What Soft boot set up do you ride???


Guest Jon Rutherford

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Guest JohnSch

Board: Generally Prior Freeride 172 for all-around riding.

Prior 162 old BX model for carving/pipe.

24cm wide Prior 4WD for those really firm days.

Bindings: Nidecker 800s, generally with moderate forward lean except for park where I go with virtually none.

Boots: DeeLuxe Freak TTs, with two sets of TPS stiffening spines (normal and stiff), plus both the original liners and Intuition ski boot liners. Normally I leave the ski liners in and simply vary the stiffener setup.

Also Nitro Team boots for park if I get the nerve up.

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Boards: Rad Air Tanker 2000

Burton Supermodel 181

Boots: Salomon Malamute (first choice)

Burton Driver w/stiffener

Binding: Burton Mission GT w/Booster Strap

rear bindings on Burton cant plate

Highly recommend Mission GT Binding, highback locks upright,add third strap for toeside power. The wing on the highback adds power to heelside/backside turns.

Very" Big Wave "Surfy feel for your all-mountain rig.

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161 Never Summer Premier (Great, stiff, heavy freeride board, advertised as all-mountain as opposed to freestyle). Since I now only take it out on powder days because all other days get the carving board treatment, I wish it was longer by 5-10 cm.

Salomon Malamutes (pretty stiff - stiffer than the Burton Ions I used to have)

Catek Freerides (nice and stiff - there's a little play on the highback/anklestrap assembly and I wish the highbacks were adjustable sideways or have wings so that it would support my 45 degree front foot angle a little better, but very nice nonetheless).

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154 cm K2 Zeppelin with Burton stepins. I'm too old to hook up straps. The setup works fine. I used it in my first halfpipe competition in Okemo's SuperPipe last year and I got down with all equipment and appendages intact.

USASA says that I graduate to the "Methusalah" age group in less than 3 years. Cool....

Pat

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Board: Burton Balance 152 for park/pipe.

Boots: Salomon Synapse

Bindings: Flow - best soft bindings available. Comfy, quick in and out, plenty of support to allow carving on a freestyle board.

When its a powder day, I put the Flow Bindings on my Burton Supermodel 161.

I ride my carving setup (Donek Incline 160/hard boots) in the morning and hit the park/pipe after lunch.

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My soft setup, and a question:

'97 Burton Custom 164

Burton freestyle bindings (I forget which) with the "One" strap (Burton's old half-assed attempt at a Flow type binding)

Old Burton Ranger boots, which sucked before I put orthotics and gel heel pads in them. Now they're fine. They were the stiffest B-boot of the day.

This setup pretty much sucks for carving, but is pretty good for the rare NE powder day, spring days, rock days, and trees. I can't justify upgrading soft equipment until it disintigrates. My last pair of softboots were '89 Burton Comp boots.

My question is: do softboot step-in systems actually work? I have a hard time believing it because I have to crank my strap bindings down so tight to get any performance out of them, I can't imagine being able to get the same tightness/performance out of SI's.

Also, I have a good friend who was an engineer at Burton and I asked him why he didn't ride their SI's. His answer: "Dude... they suck. They just suck. They will never match the performance of straps."

Do any pro's use SI's?

-Jack

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Boards: Ride Timeless 158 and 167

Bindings: Drake F-50s, Burton Custom Freeride (3 straps! but soft :mad: )

Boots: Nidecker Project-X

I don't really have an answer to Jack's question, but regarding SI's, has anyone tried using an SI boot (one w/o an instep strap) in a strap binding for the extra stiffness provided by the SI? Do they even fit in strap bindings?

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Guest Matt D

I did use Burtons SI system for a bit, and K2/Shimano's clicker system for a little bit. The Clickers were pretty good, but my Burton SI's rocked. My friends convinced me to go with straps, and I'm kinda sorry that I did. My SI's were stiffer, and overall more comfortable then my cranked down straps. They also provided more lateral support. I had the 01 Driver SI + 01 Mission GT SI. Sick Combo!

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Originally posted by Jack Michaud

My question is: do softboot step-in systems actually work? I have a hard time believing it because I have to crank my strap bindings down so tight to get any performance out of them, I can't imagine being able to get the same tightness/performance out of SI's.

Step in boots usually have a big ankle strap that is firmly anchored at the boot heel. Cranking down on this strap should provide exactly the same sensation as cranking down on a binding ankle strap.

I don't see how SIs could provide worse performance, unless there was actual slop in the connection interface.

This is all speculation though, as I haven't ridden step-ins for years.

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Guest JohnSch

SIs didn't suck, until K2 and Burton at least backed away from high-end boots/bindings in the SI niche. A few pros did use step-ins several years ago; I think Axel Pauporte may still ride Switch bindings, but don't know for sure. Jack, if part of what you're asking is "should I consider step-ins?" I'd say unequivocally no given the lack of product right now, though.

You might want to consider upgrading either your entire bindings or at least seeing if you can pick up some Team skybacks, doing either of these on E-bay to control cost. The difference between '97 vintage freestyle bindings and more modern,more supportive bindings would be significant, particularly if you crank up the forward lean on the better/stiffer bindings.

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Originally posted by Baka Dasai

Step in boots usually have a big ankle strap that is firmly anchored at the boot heel. Cranking down on this strap should provide exactly the same sensation as cranking down on a binding ankle strap.

I don't see how SIs could provide worse performance, unless there was actual slop in the connection interface.

This is all speculation though, as I haven't ridden step-ins for years.

My Ride Vapors that I use with Clickers have just such a strap. I have toyed with the idea of removing the highback though as of now it remains...later this season it may come off for a morning to "test" the new liners' stiffness. If it works then weeee less weight. Something to consider (I did) there is/are a bunch of NOS (new old stock) SI bindings that turn up on Ebay...I love the ease and comfort of mine

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Morrow Escape 176 matt goodwill

Rad Air Tanker 200 and 192

K2 Transformer Boa ---- stiff as hell

Clicker SST pros

Its a solid, no slop system. And the bindings weigh less than a pound. I've put a lot of thought into this and it works great for me.:D

Bachelor was sick over the New Years Holiday! wow:p

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Tanker 182

K2 Ambush 175

Mickey Munoz 170

Arbor Crossbow 167

APX Kevin Jones

Ride EX binders

the boots have a solid, stiff feel for a softie. handmade in italy, very quality and durable. do not pack out. they have a thin (but not too thin) sole which combined w/ torsional rigidity creates max sensitivity and feel on the board for me, which i really like. Superfeet liners.

bindings are personal things, but the EX are solid, simple, durable, relatively cheap and hard to beat. plus they fit my boots and feet. Ride has a huge line of bindings, but the Team, SPI, Flite MIG, etc all have bells and whistles that i don't care for. don't like toe ramps on my pow setups. don't need "dampening" stuff under the binder, don't need leather straps...

now i just need a winterstick swallowtail.

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Originally posted by JohnSch

Board: Generally Prior Freeride 172 for all-around riding.

Can you give me a bit of insight into how that Prior Freeride performs? I'm seriously considering one of those, they look great on paper and have an excellent reputation.

From what I can tell, the board is pretty stiff, has a big 'ol radial sidecut for easy carving, and is fairly moderate in width. Should be a great all around board that can also rip up the hardpack.

Thanks for any insight.

-adam

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Guest JohnSch
Originally posted by 420calvin

Can you give me a bit of insight into how that Prior Freeride performs? I'm seriously considering one of those, they look great on paper and have an excellent reputation.

From what I can tell, the board is pretty stiff, has a big 'ol radial sidecut for easy carving, and is fairly moderate in width. Should be a great all around board that can also rip up the hardpack.

Thanks for any insight.

-adam

An extremely well-balanced freeride design, I'd say due to the stiffness you should definitely pair it with stiffer soft boots and bindings but your summary overall is accurate. Mine (one of their demos sold on their site) came with a lot of camber, which really gives it a lot of energy out of turns and makes it fun and lively overall. For a dedicated steeps/pow/bumps focus I might ask for one with reduced camber to take away some of the pop, but for overall use it's a great design as is. Depending on what all-around riding means to you, you may or may not also want

the large sidecut radius...riding moderate angles I find a radius in the 8 range easier for short carves, for instance. Anyway I've been happy with it. :)

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hellacool New Gear

I just picked up a 157cm Head Force 27.0 off of eBay with wicked black paint and red flames plus a pair of Northwave Kevin Jones boots. I have an older pair of Stubby strap in binding, but I am lusting for a pair of Flow Amp 5 bindings to round out the rig.

post-675-141842196588_thumb.jpg

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Until this year, for the last 4 years I was using Shimano Clickers with their stiffest boot (Skylord?).

I really enjoyed this setup, the boot was very stiff (no integrated highback, and didn't need it).

I gave up on it though because last season the Shimano clicker system totally clogged on me during a slushy day. I had to constantly clear my boot cleat catch.

This season I am using Burton P1 HD and Northwave APX boots. So far, it matches the performance of the step-in system (but only had a few days on it so far this season).

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My older setup was switch steps in with Vanns boots. Which I enjoyed and have never had any issues with.

The one downside to the older models with integrated highback in the boot is the limitation of flex in the boot as well as the instep strap not being effective with only velcro vs rachet.

Although with this crowd tweaking, jibbing, and bonking doesn't seem like an issue....

Newer models have addressed this with the binding including the highback and improved instep straps.

Strap in binding design has improved greatly and is what my newest gear has and is nearly as easy as step ins but with better fit.

No gear can handle all situations. I think this is where the quiver syndrome starts....

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Guest Mark Jeangerard

I take soft booting pretty seriously because I see a great advantage to a flat stance/ankle tweaking setup for certain riding styles.

Clickers do not allow for proper control techniques in my NSHO. Stiff is besides the point. (Might as well ride hard and plates all the time, as I did for 6 years.) Highbacks do not come into play when controlling the snowboard but are there only as a safety device, to keep the ankle from opening too far under unplanned loads. Some people have big feet. Therefore:

  • Donek Wide or Pow 160. Not sure what it is. I bought it from Sean at the demo tent because it ruled so hard I could not leave without it.
  • Burton Synchro because they match the boots.
  • Burton Freestyle boots, because they fit my feet, are flexy, and have good features.
  • Most importantly - The tallest Palmer Power Link System available. Without it flat stance riding would not exist for me.

Still use a 181 Supermodel with hards and plates for the powdery steeps. :D

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