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Roto Brush for waxing?


dredman

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I just could not bring myself to pay full price for a roto brush.  So I got creative and made my own. I got the brush off of amazon and picked up some parts at the hardware store.  

Here is a link to the brush. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B079HD5LS9/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

I scraped my board and roto brushed the excess, seems to work just fine.  We are not known for high end tuning here in Montucky, so my standards are pretty low.

 

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I am currently experimenting with using fiberlene to remove the scraping step. I hate scraping. Scraping sucks when you don't own the place you live in, with no garage.

 

https://www.skitalk.com/threads/hot-waxing-approach.3210/#post-71567

I have not had a successful one thus far (too much wax?).

Edited by Odd Job
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1 hour ago, Odd Job said:

I am currently experimenting with using fiberlene to remove the scraping step. I hate scraping. Scraping sucks when you don't own the place you live in, with no garage.

Fiberlene is better for polishing - wrapping around a cork for rubbing in wax overlays. Scotchbrite pads are much better for removing old wax, removing too much wax (if you don't want to scrape) or exposing base structure after you've hot-waxed and scraped the base.

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2 hours ago, dredman said:

I just could not bring myself to pay full price for a roto brush.  So I got creative and made my own. I got the brush off of amazon and picked up some parts at the hardware store.

At least you didn't use a dirty one from a vacuum cleaner. I've seen all kinds of things at tuning parties, it's best to tune first then drink.

Edited by noschoolrider
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I think the point might be missed by the casual viewer that alpine snowboarding is considered a blood spot by many on this site. Unless you are an Olympic contender and need that board tuned to hit the first gate in 20 yards I have been negligent in that I really do not worry about buffing like it is the hood of my car. I figure after 100 feet of snow sliding it is about as buffed as I need it as long as it was scraped flat after hot waxing. My uncle used to be fanatical about his hard wood floors until he slipped on a step and wound up in the hospital. His new standard was 80 grit sandpaper. I guess I am jealous that some people are so organized they have the time to gaze at their reflection on the base of their boards. Perhaps I should ask will wax protect my board from rocks and grass because that is what I will be contending with in the early season.

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@inkaholic True enough on the double barrel, but I built @johnasmo one also.  

@Chouinard after my first round of testing, I decided it was not worth the effort.  One could easily be added by cutting and bending some plexiglass and attaching it to the handle.

@lowrider No, wax will not help with rocks and grass. I usually only wax 1-2 times a year and only put a file to the board if I happen to hit rocks.    I typically just used a scotch bright pad after scraping.  But power tools…

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big fan of roto brushes. not so much vacuuming, but i like the ingenuity. scraping has to be the worst part about waxing for sure. recently got the 150mm racewax kit instead of the 100mm i've been doing 3 or 4 passes for the width of my boards. now i only have two. the snowboard kit didn't have a brass roto which is why i opted for the 150mm kit cause i use that one the most. i've found that a steel scraper on first pass, then finish with plastic helps with scraping. use caution with that steel scraper.  brass roto and then keep layering. black friday sale going on at racewax right now so pretty good deal and well worth the investment if you wax multiple boards at a time, race or just like to go down hill. also was given a tip to try those blue shop towels instead of fiberlene for pennies of the cost. good tip. happy tuning!

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On 11/23/2021 at 4:50 PM, Odd Job said:
On 11/23/2021 at 4:50 PM, Odd Job said:

 I hate scraping. Scraping sucks when you don't own the place you live in, with no garage

 

put your wax in some hot water for a few minutes to soften it up, then crayon it on. Iron it in and brush. no waste, and no scraping.  Thats how Kevin, Derek, Dustin and I have been able to make our hot rod race wax last so long

mario

Edited by big mario
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  • 4 weeks later...

Mark @BLOODTYPEZX10R convinced me to try FastStik a few years ago. I'm on my third season with the same pocket sized stick, and I have 10 boards. I reapply after each session. Like with regular wax, the edges get worn off first. I had been using a cork to rub it in, but I just coughed up the dough ($88) for a set of roto brushes (nylon, horse hair, cork).

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07W3NZ9XL?psc=1&ref=ppx_yo2_dt_b_product_details

This is definitely the way to go. Used the horse hair after applying the faststik and finished it off with the cork roto. Rode for 3 hrs today and it held up really well. Noticeably better than the way I had been doing before. And very slippery in our subzero temps too.

I lent one of my boards to @rwmaron and he slid up to me after a few runs and said "What the %$#@ kind of wax have you got on this thing?"

I tried dredman's clever vacuum roto brush idea, but the horse hair does a way better job. Like, way better.

Before using Faststik I was simply rubbing warmed wax on and corking it in, no scraping.

I'm kinda likin' the Faststik though. Not sure if I'll ever go back and use my old wax.

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