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Do short boards work for carving hard?


TimW
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Lets remember thst mens SL decks are in the 160-165 range typically. While they might be small for folks used to 170+, they are not really "short", certainly by normal race standards or the general market. When I think of tiny boards, I think of stuff below that sort of range relative to the rider. A 155 for my wife is pretty normal and small for me. Now when I jump on a 141, thats tiny. And super fun, but very limited.

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I have ridden various length boards during last 30+ years but my favorite always were boards under 165cm. Probably the best of all was old silver Virus Rocket.  One board I should not sell. I replace it with Zylon Hurricane  but that Rocket was something special. I bought on the trip to Germany at Chemnitz on sale. Sweet memories.

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5’10”, 185ish geared up. I hadn’t been on smaller than 169 in years usually running 169-183cm and have been wanting a modern SL board. Today I got to try out my new to me SG 163 full race. 
Dang that was fun in a completely different way than my big boards. Definitely less margin of error fore and aft like Cory said.

Ink

Edited by inkaholic
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There is a guy on another, softboot-focused, forum who seems to have found the holy grail of carving. He is a big guy and swears by boards with about 100 cm effective edge (yes, you read that right) ... The thread is now as long as my arm and I cannnot really make sense of his explanations, but if somebody wants to dig in, I can offer the link.

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Posted (edited)
2 hours ago, Aracan said:

There is a guy on another, softboot-focused, forum who seems to have found the holy grail of carving. He is a big guy and swears by boards with about 100 cm effective edge (yes, you read that right) ... The thread is now as long as my arm and I cannnot really make sense of his explanations, but if somebody wants to dig in, I can offer the link.

Yes please share the link! I doubt it is for G-force pulling edge loading carving, but I'd like to check it out. I have seen discussions before on reducing effective edge (thereby reducing sidecut depth),  instead of increasing sidecut radius,to get a longer turning radius. Honestly I don't see 100cm working without serious body dragging, but new ideas are always good to evaluate.

Edited by TimW
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12 hours ago, Aracan said:

Here you go. Be warned that one thing the guy has not managed in two years is find someone to take video of him putting his ideas to work. I do believe he'll sell you a board, though.

With no boot out, good snow, and low slope angle, anything is possible.

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19 hours ago, Aracan said:

Here you go. Be warned that one thing the guy has not managed in two years is find someone to take video of him putting his ideas to work. I do believe he'll sell you a board, though.

I have read through a few pages and well.....

There was actually a video of him on the first page, see screenshot below.  I guess it depends on your definition of carving.20210302_093358.jpg.e98335dddbf67f4dc88be5b84eca473b.jpg

 

 

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On 2/28/2021 at 6:49 AM, SunSurfer said:

PhilW hasn't posted here yet, but I'm pretty sure he would echo my recommendation to carve a Kessler KST 162 slalom race board HARD. Just make sure you've done some pre-season quads muscle and cardio-respiratory conditioning first.

Careful carving the Donek MK really hard. You'll come round so fast you'll kiss your own a**!

( 😉 I was busy getting vaccinated, now all I need is the law on travel to change in one country, and I'll be on the snow! It's a race between a snowboard-related business meeting in BC and Iceland. So far Iceland is looking like the best bet. I digress..)

Yes, agreed. My own path has been mostly Euro SL boards on piste.  Other styles and types of board exist: this approach clearly isn't what everyone wants and as stated it does require more rider-involvement than some may want. 

You don't want to borrow my 162 Kessler if you weigh twice what I do; getting the sizing right is very important I think.

At absolute maximum speed you don't get much support from the board, but at a resort I'm probably going to be the fastest person who's not straight lining anyway, within the limit of the board. Metal helps a lot there. However if your goal is only turn performance at maximum speed, then get a longer board.

With powder boards, people used to say "go big or go home", and we'd not really let people come riding if they didn't obviously have a big enough board to survive a day. These days boards are designed to still work, but at shorter lengths. I haven't found big or small boards hard to turn, but the smaller boards are I suppose more responsive.

 

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  • 4 weeks later...
2 hours ago, daveo said:

Speaking to Bruce lately about board lengths and he said anything under 162 then there isn't enough effective edge to support any meaningful carving (or racing). 

All those people with 160 Angrrys must be disapponted their carves are meaningless?

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1 hour ago, Lurch said:

All those people with 160 Angrrys must be disapponted their carves are meaningless?

I should clarify. He said something more along the lines of:

< 162cm there isn't enough edge to physically support most riders' weight.

So if that makes you think that most angrry 160 riders don't have enough edge to support their weight, then that's your prerogative, but I think it is somewhat taking it out of context. 

Edited by daveo
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7 hours ago, daveo said:

Speaking to Bruce lately about board lengths and he said anything under 162 then there isn't enough effective edge to support any meaningful carving (or racing). 

I guess then it all boils down to what is "meaningful carving". I still maintain that I see many people carving wonderfully on shorter boards. Certainly seems meaningful to me. 

 

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7 minutes ago, JRAZZ said:

I guess then it all boils down to what is "meaningful carving". I still maintain that I see many people carving wonderfully on shorter boards. Certainly seems meaningful to me. 

 

People should only be judged  by the smile on their face.

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