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Kessler the ride vs. Donek Flux?


Tddragon
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1 minute ago, dgCarve said:

SG has some great softboot carving boards too.
SG Force can be used with soft and hard boots. They have Titanal version of this board too: SG Force V15/V17. Just be aware of very large sidecut radius - need to put them really high on edge.

I already have a kessler the ride (strictly soft boot board) I bought used and love it. An opportunity came up to buy a used donek flux - which I read some folks ride in hard boots as well - and want to try hardboot riding. Just not sure how similar these boards are. 

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You can ride any board in hard boots. I do that myself. I have "softer" hard boots to ride regular boards and SBX boards. Even regular boards I can carve much harder in my hard boots than I can in soft boots. Plus still can ride all mountain regardless of conditions.

And I ride my alpine boards using very stiff hard boot setup (I do not use any rotational or much of vertical movement in my riding on alpine boards).

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15 hours ago, dgCarve said:

SG has some great softboot carving boards too.
SG Force can be used with soft and hard boots. They have Titanal version of this board too: SG Force V15/V17. Just be aware of very large sidecut radius - need to put them really high on edge.

What are your thoughts on sg speed board? (I know hardboot board)

1 minute ago, slopestar said:

Alloy DO or AZX

or Donek Custom

That didn't answer my question :)))

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Do not know much about SG Speed board. Currently they sell SG Full Speed (this could be different board?). SG Full Speed is made for kids.

I own few SG boards. One of them Force 165 (other boards are pure alpine boards). It is versatile board, which can be used as all-mountain board and carves great. Works great with hardboots, and should work well with softboots too (have not tried myself).  For icy conditions I would buy Force 165 v15. But be aware that sidecut radius is large, so you should know how to put the board very high on edge.

P.S. Many people may not agree with me, but I think that boards made for racers usually rides much better (like SG Force - it is SBX board) than "freeride" boards, as manufactures simply paying way more attention to developing and improving race boards.  Many think that "race" board requires perfect grooming - I do not think that it is the case with modern boards. My SG Full Race boards are great even when conditions are very far from perfect. "Freeride" board development usually is not priority for manufactures (even though there are many great freeride boards). Downside is that "race" boards usually have large SCR, and it is hard to learn carving on such boards.

 

 

Edited by dgCarve
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BTW, If you just want to try hardboots, just do it on your current board or buy any used (as cheap as possible) alpine board with SCR not greater than 11 m. You do not need to have fancy board to start using hardboots. If you like it, in few months you will have very good idea (or most probably lots of ideas LOL) what your next board should be. 

Edited by dgCarve
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Sorry, late to the party.  

I have 2 Flux. Fluce? Fluxuses? 🤔

Both 22cm waist, 8.5-10 scr, but one is a 162 shovel nose(traditional Flux) and the other a 168(which Sean described as a "Bomber" Flux) with a traditional shape.  With a 22cm waist, obviously I ride them with hardboots.  If I had to choose only 1 board to use in EVERY possible condition possible from NE bullet-proof to waist-deep pow, it would be that 168 "Bomber" Flux.  It's extremely versatile and handles everything well.  But that's sorta it's problem too.  It does everything well, but nothing particularly great. Don't get me wrong, I would highly recommend this for someone looking for a transitional soft to hardboot experience.  The one posted above in the FS with a 24 waist would be a home run, but it will leave you wanting more from hardboots if you get bit.  FWIW...

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On 10/28/2020 at 1:11 AM, Tddragon said:

I already have a kessler the ride

Slap some Plates on that and let er rip!   That's a great board!  but even more responsive in hardboots!

 

On 10/28/2020 at 1:20 AM, dgCarve said:

You can ride any board in hard boots. I do that myself. I have "softer" hard boots to ride regular boards and SBX boards. Even regular boards I can carve much harder in my hard boots than I can in soft boots. Plus still can ride all mountain regardless of conditions.

And I ride my alpine boards using very stiff hard boot setup (I do not use any rotational or much of vertical movement in my riding on alpine boards).

Ditto here!  I ride hardboots with TD3 SW SI's plates on all my boards, for all conditions.   I run two hardboot setups.  One with softer flex Deeluxe Trac 225's for my pow setup on a Moss PQ60 and for hard charging I run Deeluxe 425pro  on my K168, Swoard Dual 168 and Coiler EC SS 174 .......

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1 hour ago, Kneel said:

Sorry, late to the party.  

I have 2 Flux. Fluce? Fluxuses? 🤔

Both 22cm waist, 8.5-10 scr, but one is a 162 shovel nose(traditional Flux) and the other a 168(which Sean described as a "Bomber" Flux) with a traditional shape.  With a 22cm waist, obviously I ride them with hardboots.  If I had to choose only 1 board to use in EVERY possible condition possible from NE bullet-proof to waist-deep pow, it would be that 168 "Bomber" Flux.  It's extremely versatile and handles everything well.  But that's sorta it's problem too.  It does everything well, but nothing particularly great. Don't get me wrong, I would highly recommend this for someone looking for a transitional soft to hardboot experience.  The one posted above in the FS with a 24 waist would be a home run, but it will leave you wanting more from hardboots if you get bit.  FWIW...

Hey thanks for the detailed response! Nice flux zoo there lol. I decided against buying it after comparing specs - all sizes and radius etc is almost the same to my ride. And on top of that the 155 flux I was looking at buying was custom made for 140lb and I am 160-165. I also have a  coiler 170 EX  and will just start on that as a hardboot setup - was just intimidated by its long length. 

7 minutes ago, barryj said:

Slap some Plates on that and let er rip!   That's a great board!  but even more responsive in hardboots!

 

Ditto here!  I ride hardboots with TD3 SW SI's plates on all my boards, for all conditions.   I run two hardboot setups.  One with softer flex Deeluxe Trac 225's for my pow setup on a Moss PQ60 and for hard charging I run Deeluxe 425pro  on my K168, Swoard Dual 168 and Coiler EC SS 174 .......

Didn't even think of trying the ride in hard boots! I have gecko plates I mounted to it for this season. Will try it with hard boots! (Have td3's with yellow disks already) Appreciated!!

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4 minutes ago, Tddragon said:

I also have a  coiler 170 EX  and will just start on that as a hardboot setup - was just intimidated by its long length. 

170 is great length - very versatile and not long for alpine board. Coilers ride amazing. One of my Coiler's boards is 189cm and 12m-16m SCR - every time I ride it, I can not believe how amazingly agile the board is.

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1 hour ago, dgCarve said:

170 is great length - very versatile and not long for alpine board. Coilers ride amazing. One of my Coiler's boards is 189cm and 12m-16m SCR - every time I ride it, I can not believe how amazingly agile the board is.

Wow. That's very confidence inspiring 🙂 thanks buddy! Awesome to have this forum and amazing folks here for help 🙂

Will stop my search and learn on what I have (Got the coiler (and separately hard boots and bindings) right before everything shut down due to covid - amazing deal at 250 gently used - also on here  🙂

Edited by Tddragon
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If you carve well in softboots, it will help you to start riding alpine board. But don't be discouraged if in the beginning board will feel too fast and will make too big turns. I started with 11m SCR - small for alpine, but quite big for beginner.  Just keep riding. In a months or two you will be doing nice low and tight turns. Read articles at https://www.alpinecarving.com/index.html and http://bomberonline.3dcartstores.com/Manuals-Tech-Articles-and-Help_ep_82-1.html (Norm 1 and Norm 2) - very helpful in the beginning.

Edited by dgCarve
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