FTA2R Posted December 26, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 26, 2020 Just now, rjnakata said: Intec/Fintecs are definitely not compatible with Burton Physics (two small engagement rings on the underside of heel) I think you're referring to something else. Sorry, should have clarified. Asking about compatibility of F2 intec bindings and old / traditional Burton insert pattern (3D or whatever they called it) OK, I just go confirmation that's a no go - glad I didn't buy. I'd like to keep riding my beloved old Burton boards but need a step in binding (that isn't impossible to find) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rjnakata Posted December 26, 2020 Report Share Posted December 26, 2020 (edited) 14 minutes ago, FTA2R said: I think you're referring to something else. Sorry, should have clarified. Asking about compatibility of F2 intec bindings and old / traditional Burton insert pattern (3D or whatever they called it) F2 bindings are set for a 4x4 pattern. I've seen some people do *unauthorized* mods to the center disk to make compatible with Burton 3-D hole pattern. I also believe you can rotate the center disks to an odd angle to accept 3 holes, but they don't fit perfectly and the angle reference marks are off. 14 minutes ago, FTA2R said: I'd like to keep riding my beloved old Burton boards but need a step in binding (that isn't impossible to find) Bomber TD-2 & TD-3 and Catek OS-2 have some Burton 3-D compatible center disks. They can be hard to find. Both are no longer produced...as are Burton Alpine boards... Edited December 26, 2020 by rjnakata Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neil Gendzwill Posted December 26, 2020 Report Share Posted December 26, 2020 31 minutes ago, FTA2R said: I'd like to keep riding my beloved old Burton boards but need a step in binding (that isn't impossible to find) I think you should consider updating your board. Newer boards are so much better. Retire the old ones and display them somewhere. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FTA2R Posted December 26, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 26, 2020 Ha, I just started a new thread....I haven't purchased a board in years, so I'd really appreciate recs from you guys who are likely much more in the know. I already have 1 board displayed, wife definitely won't be a fan of another one. I may look to sell. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ursle Posted December 26, 2020 Report Share Posted December 26, 2020 2 hours ago, FTA2R said: Ha, I just started a new thread....I haven't purchased a board in years, so I'd really appreciate recs from you guys who are likely much more in the know. I already have 1 board displayed, wife definitely won't be a fan of another one. I may look to sell. Let's back up. The best board in the world won't work if your interface to it isn't spot on... your boots, boots consist of three parts, each equally important, err, the orthotic, the liner and the shell, actually the orthotic and liner are much more important than the shell, the shell only has to be not too long, not to short, the orthotic has to be spot on and the liner custom or heat molded, wasting all the energy in the boot because it spins or hurts won't make a board carve. Any burton board should be retired, bindings also, 8.5 radius is ok, look at the short boards from coiler or Donek, used is good, get a word of mouth guarantee, on this board it will assure you of success. 20 years ago intecs were accessible as well as parts, today, F2's are light and customizable intecs were heavy and customizable, take your choice. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FTA2R Posted December 27, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 27, 2020 @ursle I love my Donek FC 1 163 but rarely ride it, mainly b/c I prefer a shorter board on these hills. As I'll already be buying new bindings, I don't really want to buy a new Donek, esp. at the current prices (and I have some very large expenditures coming up soon). My boots are nothing special - Raichles that are at least 10 years old. "on this board" - you mean re: the actual board, right, vs. this message board? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ursle Posted December 27, 2020 Report Share Posted December 27, 2020 No, I mean get a word of mouth guarantee on any used board, and only buy from members of this chat (room board). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michael.a Posted December 28, 2020 Report Share Posted December 28, 2020 I have a pair of the 3D center disks for F2 titanflex bindings if interested. In fact Ive got a lot of F2 parts laying around, will put em up in the Classifieds. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FTA2R Posted December 28, 2020 Author Report Share Posted December 28, 2020 @michael.a sorry, but I'm slightly confused....so I can use Burton disc for F2s - at least the titanflex model? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
michael.a Posted December 29, 2020 Report Share Posted December 29, 2020 19 hours ago, FTA2R said: @michael.a sorry, but I'm slightly confused....so I can use Burton disc for F2s - at least the titanflex model? Youve got options, use the standard 4x4 discs and rotate them to fit the 3 hole pattern or buy original 3 hole discs, which Ive got (somewhere). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
1xsculler Posted December 31, 2020 Report Share Posted December 31, 2020 I have two pairs of F2 step ins and I like them very much with my UPZ boots with aluminum fin tech heels. VERY IMPORTANT: This has happened only a few times but when it does it is a serious PIA, i.e. both times I had to take my boot off on the hill and had to find a good sized screwdriver or a heavy duty beer cap opener to pry my boot out of the binding. IF you accidentally step in and you don’t get your boot far enough forward it is possible to get the heel guide pins stuck in the holes in the heel part of the binding where the attaching pins are supposed to go. It’s a rare occurrence but it can happen...MAJOR PIA but, with a little attention to stepping in it won’t happen to you. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Wolf Posted December 31, 2020 Report Share Posted December 31, 2020 FTA2R - It sounds like getting bindings that will work with your old Burton is still under consideration. If you happen to come across a set of Bomber TD2 bindings, I have a pair of three-hole (Burton) disks for those that I'd sell for $25/pair. It's just an option to make one possible binding work for you. Alternately, a new board like you're also considering would be a great way to go too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tddragon Posted January 1, 2021 Report Share Posted January 1, 2021 (edited) On 10/22/2020 at 1:17 PM, AJCdice said: I would go right to F2. I love Bombers, but for light weight at your weight and and skillset F2's will be great. Either the Ti Race set or softer and less expensive Carve RS Intec will work great. For lighter weight the carve rs intec are awesome. I got those and the titanflex and they are both great (but carve much less expensive) Edited January 1, 2021 by Tddragon Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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