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Recommendation for Intecs


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Hi,

I've never ridden intecs but, for a few reasons, would like to try them. I'm looking for a recommendation for brand/model.

I'm on the lighter side (150 lbs) and intermediate freecarve. I've only ever ridden Burton Race bails.

 

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I would go right to F2.  I love Bombers, but for light weight at your weight and and skillset F2's will be great. Either the Ti Race set or softer and less expensive Carve RS Intec will work great. 

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I have only ever run the F2 step-ins.  I am currently using the Titanflex on both my active alpine boards and like them quite a bit.  I've also got an old set of the Carve RS model when they were sold as a Raichle product, and never had an issue with them.  The Titanflex are quite a bit beefier than the RS but the foam risers they are on give them some flex.  They add about 10 mm of height as well.  So if you want a lower binding, run with the regular Ti or the RS.  The RS will be flexier and closer to your old Burtons.  At 150 lbs you shouldn't have a problem with them but some people are nervous about the plastic in them.

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Get yourself a spare cable and keep it close when you ride. Make sure you know how to replace the cable before you need to do it on the hill.

Watch out for ice accumulation under your boot heel preventing the pins from engaging properly when you step in. If it feels at all odd, stop and check and prevent a release in your first proper turn.

Make sure you keep your weight down as you pull the handle to retract the pins, then lift your heel up. Trying to do both simultaneously will be hard work and cause wear on the cable.

Love Intecs, in particular for the lateral stiffness which suits my high binding angle and riding technique combination.

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Agreed, pick the brand/model you want. At 150 lbs, you have no concerns.

Once on the hill, every clip in process should go like this: 

- Clear heel

- Step in 

- Aggressively wiggle your knee side to side

If one of the pins didn't set, it'll either set or pop out. Way better to do either before you're moving! 

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SunSurfer is correct. All good advice. If a cable snaps while in use, find a hex wrench, pencil or screwdriver to manually push in one of the pins and the pin on the opposite side will follow along. Its tedious but that is not a mechanical that necessarily brings the day to an abrupt end.

if it happens, hopefully it’s the front foot.

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@davekempmeister is also correct 😀, and I have had to do exactly what he describes to release my boot when my rear cable failed during a Summit Expression Session in Aspen a few years ago. I was able to get back to my spares pack, change out the cable and be back riding within about 45 minutes. Rear boot cables generally get pulled a lot more than the front and suffer more wear as a result.

Edited by SunSurfer
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Thanks for the responses.

F2's site indicates 3 official distributors: Donek, Coiler, and yyz. Donek is sold out, Coiler doesn't seem to sell them anymore, and I'm not sure if I have a choice of colors with yyz (not that that is a showstopper). Anyone have any hesitation purchasing from someone of the companies that aren't official distributors?

 

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I'd like to add another endorsement for YYZ.  The shipping may seem steep, but as Dredman said, the current Cad/US exchange rate plays in your favor.  If color selection is a concern, I would imagine more color options should be available as soon as 2021 product starts shipping out in a few weeks.

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On 10/22/2020 at 4:57 PM, Corey said:

- Aggressively wiggle your knee side to side

I do this on every step in more so with TD3 bindings then F2's. TD3's seem to be a little tighter to fully engage with intec's.  I rocker my foot until I hear that nice click sound. 

Edited by snowburn
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If yyz doesn’t have what you want, try Blue Tomato. Also they occasionally come up used here or on eBay. I got a very snazzy red and gold set from eBay a few years back, when they were sold as Proflex. (Raichle->Proflex->F2, all the same design). 

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Also consider i-carve, sponsor link at the top of the forum.

Alexey at OES also has great deals:

I don't know how import taxes/duties/etc. work in the US. 

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On 10/24/2020 at 8:52 AM, Corey said:

Also consider i-carve, sponsor link at the top of the forum.

Alexey at OES also has great deals:

I don't know how import taxes/duties/etc. work in the US. 

I have ordered from them both and can also vouch for them both.  

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On 10/24/2020 at 6:52 PM, Corey said:

I don't know how import taxes/duties/etc. work in the US. 

Here a lot of guys who got it from us. They need to know answer to this question.

 

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Thanks, all.  

What exactly is the difference b/w Fintec and Intec?

I don't think Euro sites are my first choice b/c of more fees, of course, but good to know all my options. 

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53 minutes ago, FTA2R said:

What exactly is the difference b/w Fintec and Intec?

They are very, very, very similar in size, design and function. They attach and release the same. The Fintec is milled out of an aluminum block and extremely durable.  I have not personally heard of any failures of either model, but I do appreciate bocks of metal holding me in vs. blocks of plastic.  

13 minutes ago, Alexey said:

I never heard about import fees from our USA customers

Nor have I.

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I've used both.  From my perspective here are the positives of each:

Fintecs: burly machined aluminum body, thicker cable/larger handle, hardy internals, replaceable sole piece available, replacement internals available from Bomberonline, perceived higher strength may be better for heavier riders

Intecs: A lot less slippery sole for walking, non conductive plastic body doesn't promote snow/ice buildup under heel, louder "ping" sound when first engaged, compatible with Catek and old Bomber aluminum receivers (steel receivers not required), less expensive

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I bought, tried and immediately resold the F2 RS model. It's way squishier than the other two. 

Intec heel tip: Push your heal down and keep it there before and while you're pulling the cable handle. That relieves the strain on the pins, which allows them retract easily. If you try to "step out" the pins get loaded up, you have to pull harder and the plastic lever arms inside the heel will eventually fail.  Believe me, I learned the hard way....

 

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