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What Edge and Base Angles Are Ya Setting For Hard Charging Carving??


barryj

What Edge & Base Angles You Setting For Hard Charging Carving??  

50 members have voted

  1. 1. So What Angles Ya Running For Hard Carving

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When I had a new Coiler NFCE delivered I asked Bruce what edge tune it came with. 

0 on the base, and 89 on the side, no detune.

Tried it out as it was and very happy. I'd previously run a range of base and side angles but I'm planning on keeping it simple from here on.

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Base -1, Edges -5

Too often riding on sometimes icy, hardpack at Windham, New York. but I am still not that good in Ice. Fear?  Bad technique ?

Mostly riding Donek FC171, FC185 and Coiler WC185 formerly ridden at World Cup races by
Olympic Gold Medalist Jasey Jay Anderson. I won the Coiler at the ECES at Sugarloaf !

I do my own edge & wax tuning. I am starting to play with the Tooltonic " Ice Catcher" on one board.

Eastern conditions have just turned "spring/summer" for February/March 2018, and will continue based on the 30 day forecast, so I guess my testing is over for this season. 

Bricky

 

Edited by Bricky
Clarification
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  • 2 years later...

When I get a new board I set a base bevel of .5° and a side bevel of 2° (88°). I never take a metal file to my edges anymore. I use a coarse, then medium, then fine diamond stone to set the edge bevel and then maintain it with just the fine diamond "polishing" stone after every few days of riding or when edges feel dull. I also like to de-tune an inch or so at the contact points at the nose and tail when I first get a board to help keep the board from hooking up when riding flat. The .5° base bevel helps with that too.

My Thirst boards came with a .75° base bevel and 2° edge, so I didn't have to do anything but maintain them.

To maintain edges, I just run a handheld fine diamond stone for a few quick passes on the base, always use a guide for the edge bevel, and only take the time if I suspect conditions will be hard or icy. 

I really only started experimenting with edge bevels about 10 years ago when I got my first used race board, a Kessler, which had a 3° side bevel and incredible edge hold on ice. Although, I found that a 3° bevel lost it's edge faster and maintaining it ended up wearing through the edge material faster. 

With my next new boards (Donek REV, Coiler Nirvana) I experimented by gradually increasing edge bevel from the "factory" edge (90°). I found a 2° side bevel easier to maintain than 3°, staying sharp longer, yet having noticeably better edge grip on ice than 1°.  A happy medium for the flatlands between the "ice coast" and the snowy mountains.

Now I have a bona fide quiver of boards, so I maintain one "ice board" with a 3° edge bevel and a full iso-plate. 

btw, my last 2 Coilers (Contra AT's) came with at least some base and edge bevel, as I didn't have to remove much material when I set the bevels.

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89° side,  1° base if I do the base. I sharpen them when I think it is been a while, guess every 7-10 days of riding.

To be honest I have never noticed a difference with different angles. It has to be pretty rock hard to distinct a perfectly sharp edge from a not-too-blunt edge anyway. I prioritize sharpening technique over sharpening edges (😀 I wish).

But an isolation plate, that makes a difference!

 

 

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1*base, 2* side, slight detune tip and tail.

I've tried others, but in western snow I've never lacked for edge grip, can run comfortably base flat, and get more years out of edges without having to cut way into the sidewall

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