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converting rubber tire carveboard to new 104mm urethane carvestik wheels


snowboardfast

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Has  anyone converted a rubber tire carve board to urethane and if you did did you like it better? I contacted the company and they said it can be done if you are willing to mount both trucks 2" closer in. You would have to drill the deck. Reasons why I would like to do this- lighter weight, quicker turning, no more tires to inflate or decide which pressure to use based on type of hill, less rolling resistance with urethane which would allow you to ride on more types of terrain. I would be buying the new 104mm wheels and axles to do this. 

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Carveboard also put the Carvestik, which featured pre-coned urethane wheels. It was smaller, lighter, more nimble,etc.. I seem to recall that Carveboards use 10mm axles? If that's correct, Bear/ Landyatchz Longboards markets a 10mm inner-bore bearing (SKF, and Fafnir also make bearings that're basically a 608, with a 10mm inner bore) that's Ceramic and has a water-resistant shield. I don't see any reason to change axles IF you can get bearings to fit!  22mm is the outside size for 608's, and they're usually 7mm or 8mm wide. As for a remount of the trucks, consider simple riser between the deck and truck? Although, re-mounting the trucks will also tighten the turn arc a bit... This is a cool idea, something I'd love to hear back on if you put it together!

 

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Thank you for the info on those parts. I can buy a complete carvestik used for the same money as it would cost to buy parts from carveboard to convert my other board. I wonder if the new 104mm wheels would be better than the 80mm wheels on the carvestik? I don't like the idea of drilling the carveboard because if I ever wanted to sell it  might not help? 

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The only two potential issues with putting those 104's on it are ; 1st} Wheel clearance. You might need riser pads? 2nd} Wheel contact patch in really deep turns. The reason for Carvesticks having the pre-coned wheels is that they'll still grip (on the inside-of-the-arc! At that point, you're on two wheels, ie., Way Up on Edge!) when you're Carving really hard.  

Or, you could buy a Landyatchz Evo, put Gullwing Sidewinders on it (get Riptide Chubby bushings for those!), and put the 104's on that ?!  Or not...

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

I don't think i will be able to  convert my board to the new wheel set up as I would have to mount the trucks in farther than 2" each to clear the sharp bend on the nose and tail of the board? I took 1 truck off and made a pencil line 2" in from the center of the mounting holes and the truck will not mount flat on the board from that spot. Also the board is wider with the truck further in  and the wheels might hit the deck? I am glad I did not order parts yet. I must have the old version?

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Keeping the trucks very close to where they were is your best option in using the board's shape for wheel clearance. 1/2" inboard would likely be enough, so you'll be keeping the trucks on the 'bend' regardless. Btw, those trucks are of a very flat geometry, so DO NOT mount them 'flat' as you would on a normal skateboard/longboard truck; If you did, you'd Lean, but NOT TURN!!  [They wanted to use springs, but didn't want to use Dan Gesmer's Seismic trucks, so they designed around his many patents; hence the need to mount on a slanted surface!]

 So, Riser pads is where you're at.   You can buy the 'old-school' 1/2" urethane riser pads, turn them sideways , clamp them where you mount the trucks, and readily poke mounting hole with a hand-held drill by using the mounting holes already in your deck as 'hole-guides'. ones like these;  http://oldschoolskates.com/riserphoto.aspx  You'll want the "G" type, which is flat, urethane, and not too soft. I think that a 1/2" would do in giving it enough clearance, but you might need a tad more.   

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thank you for the info about this gear! I am having fun riding this board the way it is with 20lbs of tire pressure. I might just buy another carveboard already set up with the urethane wheels so that I don't have to take a chance on this not working that well? I think it would be fun to have the shorter 34" board with the urethane wheels as this would allow riding on more types of terrain than the rubber tire board.

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So, back to a Carvestik, maybe. They're NOT made for too much of a bigger wheel, so watch that... When I Noted the Landy Evo, I wasn't Kidding... It's a great free-carve deck, IF NOT set up with DH trucks, but instead 'turnier' trucks (even some Reverse Kingpin trucks qualify, btw). The premise that Carveboards were originally made with was a Snowboard/Surfer Crosstrainer, and I Wholeheartedly Agree with the Mission, if not the resulting product! However, since then, there has been three revolutions in 'longboard' skateboarding. One was Speed, so decks and trucks all got burly, and got Big, and soft. Slalom skateboards arrived [again, 20 yrs. on!] and demanded quicker trucks,Better bushings!, faster, stickier wheels, and better deck construction. And then Sliding, became a means of descending during a Race (previously, we used it to flat-spot wheels and Save Our Asses! on Steeps). So when you look at a Landyatchz Evo, you're looking at some very protracted thinking... They made the board to Go Fast. They made it to accept most RKP trucks, and BIG (100mm!) wheels. They made it set to Steer Progressively Forwards (NOT FORKLIFT Steering!, Race-Car Steering!) without any need to Angle the risers. So, no wheel issues, directional steering (using most any 'normal' longboard/skateboard trucks of the correct width), and it's concaved to cradle your feet really well. IT WILL NOT WORK WITH CARVEBOARD TRUCKS! But using 10mm 610 bearings it can run their big air-inflated wheels, with a 10mm-axle DH Truck like Bear's 852 with the 10mm axle option, or Indeezes with similar axles. Otherwise, you're back to the Industry Standard of an 8mm bearing/axle kit. So, please, look the equipment over with due care. Yes, possibilities abound, but creative thinking and awareness of components will dictate your success at making your dream-carver.  Contact me directly should you need to. I am the "Pre-School Rider" in that, {save for about a hundred of my predecessors who Surfed b4 i was born, } I know a few things about 'crossing over' from sk8-to-snow on a board. Look at NCDSA or Silverfish or Concrete Wave for board/wheel/truck ideas/options and build ideas. There is neat stuff out there, , and If you ask the right question, you might get 'the answer'...

 

 

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