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Leg Burn


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Get in the zone and make your legs work together. Stop them from fighting each other. Don't push your turns with the rear leg. Your speed may also be a factor in correcting the problem. Ibuprofen !

Edited by lowrider
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3 hours ago, ITALIAN_MARC said:

Cheers I was told to set the stance back but feel like I'm always pulling my front leg up if you what I mean lol 

Yeah, stance back is OK, just try riding on both feet. 

Of course we don't know what kind of board is in question... 

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What they said.

If you're getting pain in one leg then that's because you're loading it more than the other one: you need to load both. That's actually independent of where you set your stance. Use a powder board to start with - most hard-boot boards are not good in powder (yes, yes, we can all ride them, but it's hard work and less fun). Many powder boards have the default stance set-back, so check that. But just ride it, and if you fall over the nose a fair bit, move your stance back a cm at a time until you stop. Then ride it with your weight on both legs.

It's not just that you'll never ride top-to-bottom on one leg, it's that you're losing a lot of flexibility and control if you're not riding balanced front-back.

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22 hours ago, Neil Gendzwill said:

Everything gets easier in pow with some speed! All us old guys swear by vitamin I if you still have pain. 

Ibuprofen, I like to use sportsleggs, lots of water and getting loose beforehand IE, triggerpoint roller, arnica rubbed in, an inada dreamwave massage chair, and yea ibuprofen, back on topic, and a balanced setup, you should be leaning forward in pow, then back, then forward, then back, turning:)

Ah, bottomless 

Edited by ursle
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Ultimately, if you are standing on your back leg, you need a pow board that will float. Float will let you go where you want on a powder day instead of standing on your back leg and going straight, just to get back to the lift. Pow boards are often cheap this time of the year and there are a lot out there.

I always hated moving my bindings back for powder because I never felt like the board performed correctly with the bindings back.

Speed is important, but slope angle will determine how fast you can go in a straight line on a specific board. Most resort powder terrain is just not very steep. Even if the top has some pitch, it will almost always flatten out quickly.

The more and harder you turn in powder, the more you will slow down. To counteract that, having enough float to make the turns you like, on the slopes you ride, in the powder you ride (depth and density), is really helpful. ; )

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  • 4 weeks later...

The standard board for this at my mates' cat/ heli operation is a Burton Fish, although there are lots of copies now.

We call them "day saver" boards, and it's for a reason. You get lots of people riding on one foot other the other, and inevitably they can't really make one run. After realizing that everyone else is having more fun, you could sell them those Fish for thousands of dollars. The right board inevitably most often saves their day. The cool thing about Fish is that they're also good for experts. Sure, they're a little slower to accelerate than big boards, but it's not a race, and in any sort of mixed terrain they're much faster around the corners. Slightly more slashy boards share some of the design features though and are a good compromise.

It's rare to see experts in deep powder on big boards these days. Although anyone you do see will inevitably be on hard boots.

Edited by philw
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12 hours ago, Lurch said:

Hey Phil Burton say the upper weight of their Phish161 is 88kg(195lb) - I run a fair bit over that at 105(230). Any feedback on how they handle a bit of extra beef in deeper pow?

 

 

If you want a board with similar geometry that will hold your weight better in deep pow, or on the groomers to get there, you should check out the Fullbag Blunt Diamond 162. My buddies and me were big fans of the Fish 160, but the flex pattern did not work well for us (amongst other things). Nose kept folding right in front of the front binding. So after some brainstorming with them and riding some prototypes, the Blunt Diamond 162 was born. Great float and manoeuverability, no rear leg burn, more surface area, long low rise tip. If you need any info, let me know.

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1 hour ago, Lurch said:

Thanks Mig, good info. Will do some sniffing on the interwebs and check it out. Cheers 

A few Bomber members are riding my boards and have posted about it. If you do a search, you should find some info on here directly too.

Edited by Mig
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  • 3 weeks later...
On 6/7/2017 at 3:08 AM, Lurch said:

Hey Phil Burton say the upper weight of their Phish161 is 88kg(195lb) - I run a fair bit over that at 105(230). Any feedback on how they handle a bit of extra beef in deeper pow?

I tend to have the opposite problem, but I'd be wary of that unless you actually tried the board and liked it.

My cat mates "day savers" are standard 156 Fish. And I don't recall them not using them for hockey-player-sized people. I suppose that means a small Fish is often better than the customer's inevitably tiny board.

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Thanks Phil.

Actually went & checked out a Fish. Stance is set waaaaay back - with my front foot centred over reference mark I was on the very back end of the rear channel. And it’s VERY flexy. Without actually riding it, what Mig said about them folding up seemed entirely possible. And I forgot Burton channel too. So, all in all, no good for a hockey playing Sasquatch!

The NS Swift looked/felt a lot more bomb proof and I would be keen to give one of them a run.

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  • 6 months later...

I've been riding soft, tracked up stuff out here in Whistler on my old Donek Axis all week and find myself doing more bouncing and skidding than carving on steeper pitches.  Also suffered the rear leg burn, so this forum is on point  Anyway I'm moving the bindings back an inch today, so I'll see if it heips.  There must be a downside to this.  Does anyone know what it is?  I'm about to head out so I guess I'll find out.

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7 minutes ago, darko714 said:

There must be a downside to this.  Does anyone know what it is?  I'm about to head out so I guess I'll find out.

You may find that when back on the hard snow, the board is sluggish to come around.  Especially if you don't favor the fore/aft, 'sneaker in the clothes dryer' approach to turn initiation.

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4 hours ago, darko714 said:

I've been riding soft, tracked up stuff out here in Whistler on my old Donek Axis all week and find myself doing more bouncing and skidding than carving on steeper pitches.  Also suffered the rear leg burn, so this forum is on point  Anyway I'm moving the bindings back an inch today, so I'll see if it heips.  There must be a downside to this.  Does anyone know what it is?  I'm about to head out so I guess I'll find out.

Nice to meet you today darko !! Today was about as good as it gets. Have fun tomorrow on the Kessler :)

20171231_123104.jpg

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18 hours ago, darko714 said:

I've been riding soft, tracked up stuff out here in Whistler on my old Donek Axis all week and find myself doing more bouncing and skidding than carving on steeper pitches.  Also suffered the rear leg burn, so this forum is on point  Anyway I'm moving the bindings back an inch today, so I'll see if it heips.  There must be a downside to this.  Does anyone know what it is?  I'm about to head out so I guess I'll find out.

I ride the same board in everything.  Let the board do the work in powder or soft snow!!  It has plenty of shovel in the nose to stay up in deeper snow.  Keep the speed up too.  When you change your set-up just change one thing at a time!  Leg burn,  all the time or just when riding steep and crud?  Check rear boot flex?

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On 5/5/2017 at 10:28 PM, ITALIAN_MARC said:

What's the best way to stop your back leg burning when riding powder? I've set my bindings back as far as I can (although it isn't a power percific board)

Thanks

Hi Italian/MArc - We have been watching ski racing and Nordic ski racing from Europe (on you tube and such) and it looks like you guys are doing just fine in regards to snow. We have not gotten much yet, so I'm pretty jealous;-)

I think you will find that a powder-specific board will make all the difference. A board like a Burton Fish or Malolo (or Prior Fissile, Kyber, Pow Stick, Spearhead) (or a Donek Nomad...) is going to have construction characteristics that help the board stay afloat and help you ride in powder, while still pressuring the front foot.. You will be amazed at how much easier it is to ride powder on a board designed for it.

These boards often employ things like tip designs that may include "early rise" or "rocker" - the board may be cambered rather traditionally underfoot, but at the tip the board may be more relaxed in its flex pattern, helping the tip rise up and help you stay afloat while pressuring more with the front foot.

Powder boards often include taper in the shape of the board. At the tip the board might be 30 cm across, at the waist 24 cm, at the tail 27 cm. - so a bit more narrow at the tail than at the tip, which helps the tail sink, allowing you to weight the front foot more.

There are a lot of different makes and models out there to look at, each with design variations that should make for some interesting tools for riding the  mountains. The Prior Pow Stick (and lots of other powder boards) include split-tails, which would be cool to try out. They say the Pow Stick, with its long side-cut radius really rails on the groomers, and the rest of the board adds up to an exciting powder tool.

I used to ride a 163 all-mountain soft carving board on powder days. I would set my bindings back, and that helped, but still, rear-leg needed to be pressing all the time, and that gets tiring. Also, on groomed runs, between powder shots, the more rearward set-up of the bindings didn't make for the most comfortable riding on the groomers.

Powder boards come in all shapes and sizes. Some will be great in deep deep pow, and then maybe kinda suck on the groom. Some will be good in wide open steep bowls. Some will have tight side-cut radii making them more turny and better in the trees. You can specialize or look for a board that is pretty good in a lot of various conditions and mountain settings.

On days when I might riding groomers a lot, and just touching on the sides and going off-piste now and then, I'll likely be on a soft, all-mountain carving board. They are great for a wide variety of tasks. I can carve it up on the groomers or jump off-piste for a bump run. When we get more snow I will be leaning more toward reaching for something more suited to off-piste riding, perhaps giving up a little in regards to how that tool might help me enjoy the groomers.

Great topic and replys all around. Here's to more snow in 2018!

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