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Using step-in only on the rear?


patmoore

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I bought a set of Trenchdiggers step-ins and Fintec heels but I'm running into a problem with the heels.  I have an older pair of Head Stratos Pros that still have the old Burton Physic heels.  The screw heads are badly beat up.  I was able to remove all four screws from the right (rear) boot and buy replacement screws) but I'm having zero luck getting the heel off the front boot.  One screw head will turn but won't come out (stripped?).  On another one I was able to use a screw extractor to turn it freely but it also won't come out.  That heel wants to stay on the boot.

My question is this.  Since the step-in is used a lot more on the rear foot, is there any reason why I shouldn't mount one each on the rear of two of my boards and use a set of F2 race bindings on for the front boot for both boards?

Edited by patmoore
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Sometimes the heels get basically plastic welded to the boots, so you might try a chisel between the heel and the boot after you seem to have all screws turning. EZ outs generally work well to remove the screws. Using a standard binding on the front, and a step-in on the back is certainly OK, but don't know if you will like a really flexible, flat binding on the front, and a really stiff, elevated binding on the rear. Might want to get a set of TD-3 standards for the front to match the feel of the rear bindings

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49 minutes ago, Slow Eddie said:

Maybe try stepping into the binding, then lifting the boot off without pulling the release cable?  If all goes well, the rings stay locked onto the posts, the heel stays on the binding, and the rest of the boot comes away.

I don't think it's that the heel is in the binding? I think that the arbor-pressed insert in the shell is able to spin, leaving one screw still holding on...

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Drill out the bolts

Use "sturdy" replacement bolts and tnuts

As pointed out stepins are higher off the board, but you can do whatever you want.

F2 stepins weigh half as much as bombers

Sean at the boot pro is very good, let him remove the heel if need be.

 

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2 hours ago, ursle said:

F2 stepins weigh half as much as bombers

I've weighed them before.  

TD3 SI Sidewinders: 5.0 lbs.

F2 SI: 3.7 lbs.  (That's without the plastic bolt cover)

Not twice as much, but noticeable in the hand.  

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Thanks for the suggestions.  I tried leveraging with a chisel but the screws still turn without coming out.  Here's an extreme solution.  Saw off the old heel around the screws and then unscrew them with vise grips?  Your thoughts?

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Drill from the bottom, trying to be as centered as possible, using a bit a little larger than the bolt diameter.  Once the head pops off, remove the heel and hammer the screw and T-nuts up and out.  

They need to be replaced anyway!  

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14 hours ago, corey_dyck said:

Drill from the bottom, trying to be as centered as possible, using a bit a little larger than the bolt diameter.  Once the head pops off, remove the heel and hammer the screw and T-nuts up and out.  

They need to be replaced anyway!  

That's the approach I'm taking.  My drill is battery operated with old batteries so it's going to take a while.

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Success!   I used corey_dyck's method and I was able to get the heel off.  I've temporarily reattached both orginal heels with new screws awaiting installation of the FinTec heels.  Too bad the season is over.....

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I do rear step in only, as well. Very happy with it!!

So, since the right (front) Fin tec heel has been brand new, unused, I just ordered the inner arms replacement, so I am converting the right heel to left. Now, I have a quick replacement if/when the cable breaks, I can just swap the entire set up. I thought, this would be a good place to post it :).

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