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sg new bindings - any early birds?


terekhov

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msrp 349EUR

from sg' engineer failbook:

Differences are manifold, apart from being engineered newly from ground up. We are for example using a ball head principle to straightly mount the bracket screws, unlike other competitors that have a serious breakage problem there. We are utilizing tempered 6mmø stainless bails with a geometry that actually prevents the buckle from falling down into the snow and getting caught under the edge. The option to get an original lower bail for Northwave or ski boots. Stainless Allen key hardware (including a high quality allen key) for all screws on the bindings. Its one Binding for all sizes of Snowboard Boots, the brackets can (albeit using tools and threadlock) be adjusted to fit all standard boots.

my view is it is romantic renovation take on proven and true proflex, but.. $360 is lotta money for not so original take.

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Why are the blocks flipped from the tech drawing to the photo? I would think that having the block's outer facing curved away from contact with the snow (as the drawing shows) would be preferable to curving outwards (as the overhead photo shows) and possibly creating a dragging moment when up on your edge. If someone assembled these wrong, I'd be a bit worried (and if so, no photo should've been put out there). I'd be even more concerned if the binding has had a re-design and it comes out like the photo shows. I can recall having had to shave the corners off of my toe/heel blocks when riding a Kildy or Madds, because with the narrow waisted boards, I'd catch that binding into the snow anytime I got up past 70* of edge-tip and blow out of my carve.

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1 hour ago, Neil Gendzwill said:

So, it's a slightly modified F2/Proflex design?

not slightly. they use general proflex scheme, yes - but all of elements are redesigned, as sg' engineer wrote in quote above.

general motivation is unknown - maybe they have some spare money to prove that they simply can! ;)

sg3.jpg

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Then, in that, it's confusing.  Speak to whom you need to, but be sure the gear faces the right way!  This btw from the guy who inspired springs in the heels of TD-1's, because, before that, I used rubber bands (ask Fin!) to keep them upright enuff to clip in!  "Been surfin' these hills since the day" is, has been, my motto, becuz it's real.. I am not here to dis-credit anyone, I just want honest stuff, stuff that Works. BTW, I rode F-2/Rad-Air HB bindings for over 18 years. They weren't then 'bad', only got replaced by burlier stuff, in time.. The upgrade could well do them great favors!

 

 

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I do hope this binding has fixed some issues of the old F-2. There are three I have that didn't get addressed, but, I wasn't asked, either. So, perhaps, those will also be addressed, but, we'll see. Anyhow, that binding has proved to be pretty good as it was. So, I am hopeful. Don't let my critical view of their photos detract from the substance of the effort. They just need better editors!

 

 

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Quote

I don't think it's an error though, it's just the bails folded down.

For the heel block, maybe, but not for the front part. Have a closer look at the toe clip. If it was just the bail folded down, the outside of the clip should face up, shouldn't it? BTW, the bindings are not on the SG website. Any more info on them?

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what kind of info? all is clear, no revolution - just some evolution. just need some reviews..

ballhead nuts for bolts is so actual when usings angling shims, and replacement bails specialized for northwave/ski boots - i didn't know that standard bails have problems coz i didn't use fashionable vintage northwave laboutins or ski boots...

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1 hour ago, Aracan said:

Sorry for the misunderstanding. What I meant was: Are these bindings already available for purchase? Probably not, as they are not listed on the SG website. So there will probably no reviews for a while.

They are already for sale in Europe. Not sure if they are in North America yet.

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I really like the spherical bushings, though having the screws come in from the bottom is a slight pain in the butt.  Can't do a torque check without removing the binding from the board.  

Are the screws the weak point on the current F2 bindings in the race environment?  I assumed the plastic parts would have went first.  That's good design practice - take what breaks on the competitors' products and make yours a little better.  

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4 hours ago, pokkis said:

More detailed pictures, if someone is interested

http://rugo.co.kr/sg/product/detail.html?product_no=2074

Acknowledging that I don't know s*** about nothing, but that sure looks like an unnecessarily bulbous and porky toe lever. Like adding another 2 boot sizes to the deal. 

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my personal point is when I came over any platform angling thru catek os1 and bomber td2 - to f2 race with older springier thin bails with both feet flat -- the only expenditure part are bails (approx. 1 per loong season). if I have source of replacement for them - I became completely stuffed & happy for years :) plastic parts of f2 is no problem at all, under-platform nuts when set initially flat is a dependable part too. and I'm pretty heavy and aggressive rider.

Edited by terekhov
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2 hours ago, corey_dyck said:

I really like the spherical bushings, though having the screws come in from the bottom is a slight pain in the butt.  Can't do a torque check without removing the binding from the board.  

You can screw it without moving the toe and heel blocks and adjusting it to the boot later.

That and spherical bushing is great.

Also great that toe lever wont fold all the way, and touch the snow when opened.

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Here is the picture of comparing F2 and SG binding below.

I had it for about 10 days and rode it for 4 days on the slope.

The constructions and adjustment of toe/heel blocks are very similar to F2. However, SG binding uses hex key for all bolts instead of Pozi drive in F2. I really like the hex key because it is less prone to stripping and the hex key is much more portable while out on the slope if adjustment is needed.

As I wanted to try different setting, SG binding were much easier to adjust lift, cant shims than F2 bindings. Yes, you have to take it off from snowboard, however, you don't need to move the toe/heel blocks like in F2 binding which was super annoying when changing cant, lift shims. Also, SG bindings comes with 2 sets of both lift and cant shims (and longer screws) but F2 only came with 1 of each, hence, I had to buy another dealer as I ride both toe and heel lift. 

Construction of SG binding is very sturdy and well made. Comparing the plastic of F2 and SG, it is evident that SG uses better plastic construction than F2. 

SG binding is slightly heavier than F2 but it is very negligible difference. It is not overly stiff but still have that lateral flex people seek in F2 binding. I had problem with F2 binding dragging on the snow when I unclipped but i never have that problem with SG binding. When clipping in, the SG binding has better "snap" than F2 in my opinion but I guess it is subjective. 

The only downside is the cost. SG binding is about $100 more than F2 binding. But in my opinion, SG binding is worth it as it is easily adjustable, bit more stiffer than F2 but not as stiff as metal binding which is what I was looking for. Also SG snowboard company has one of the best customer service hands down, hence, for me that counts a lot. Even sigi chips into answer some of the questions.

sg 1.JPG

sg 2.JPG

sg 3.JPG

sg 4.JPG

Edited by yamifumi
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