jatkinson Posted December 18, 2015 Report Share Posted December 18, 2015 (edited) I am looking at a shiny new Coiler that still has factory wax on it. Relatively new to alpine (second season) and wondering if my usual maintenance routine is good enough. Normally I would hot wax with an old clothes Iron at the start of the season and every 6 days or so. Edges sharpened with a toko file/bevel gauge as needed. This was for my old soft boot board. What should I be doing with a proper alpine board. I will probably get ~20 days on the snow this season. Cheers and thanks for advice. JJ Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Edited December 18, 2015 by jatkinson Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
big mario Posted December 18, 2015 Report Share Posted December 18, 2015 (edited) Sounds like you have it aiready figured out, though you could turn the obsesive dial up to 11, and polish your edges with a 1 micron diamond stone after each use, and may be crayon some more wax on as well like some of us....wait, nevermind. Edited December 18, 2015 by big mario Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DonPablo Posted December 18, 2015 Report Share Posted December 18, 2015 Your base and sidewall edges are both at 0 degrees. Setting the base to 0, 0.5, or 1 degrees, and sidewall to 2-3 degrees are pretty normal. Not completely necessary but will help with icy conditions. The sharper the edge the quicker it will go dull. I road my first Coiler for 2 years before changing its edges angles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slopestar Posted December 18, 2015 Report Share Posted December 18, 2015 https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=Wi4N4duxwgk This is great. I'm not a micron kind of guy... But sharp edges and good wax are always a good thing. I do this but use 3 levels of gummy stones to file up nicely 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bigwavedave Posted December 18, 2015 Report Share Posted December 18, 2015 Don't use a file, except to first set the bevels or clean up damage, it removes too much of the edge to be used regularly. Use a fine diamond stone to maintain. Like Mario said, after your initial hot wax, just "crayon" wax on when the base appears dry, usually along the edge, and you can use a cork to friction rub it in. If you're not riding on icy slopes, you don't really need to worry about side bevel and sharp edges that much. Some base bevel is recommended (.5-1 degree) regardless of where you ride. It keeps the edge from engaging unpredictably. Edge bevel and degree of sharpness is much more noticeable on hard and icy slopes. In that case start with 1° and increase it if needed. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lordmetroland Posted December 18, 2015 Report Share Posted December 18, 2015 Like Mario said, after your initial hot wax, just "crayon" wax on when the base appears dry, usually along the edge, and you can use a cork to friction rub it in. Is there a reason for not hot waxing often, aside from ease/speed? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Surf Quebec Posted December 18, 2015 Report Share Posted December 18, 2015 From what I've read, you can damage your base if the iron is too hot and/or you don't move it fast enough. I'm a happy user of the wax wizard. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
big mario Posted December 18, 2015 Report Share Posted December 18, 2015 Is there a reason for not hot waxing often, aside from ease/speed? It can also be messy and wasteful, especially when your stash of spendy top secrect not made anymore wax is running low Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Corey Posted December 18, 2015 Report Share Posted December 18, 2015 Bare minimum: Keep the edges from being rusty with regular wipedowns with a rag and a little wax. Take burrs off after you hit rocks. Wax the base when you start seeing white patches. Super-anal Thorough: Micropolishing edges and changing wax daily based on conditions. I started using a set of diamond polish stones last year. Even just doing that a couple of times a year made a small but noticeable difference in edge hold on ice. In Colorado, I don't think it would matter. I crayon wax and use a Wax Wizard any time the base isn't black near the edges. In our man-made snow/ice, that's every day. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jatkinson Posted December 18, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 18, 2015 Sounds like I am on the right track. I will swap out my file for some diamond stones. In terms of the bevel I assume that is something to start small and work my way up to. Seems reasonable to go with 0.5-1 on the base and similar on the side. Adjusting the bevel would be the only place to use a file? Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RCrobar Posted December 18, 2015 Report Share Posted December 18, 2015 How can you help but love a guy like this, great video! Thanks for sharing it. Rob Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ursle Posted December 19, 2015 Report Share Posted December 19, 2015 http://www.skimd.com/ When I get a "virgin" I have it shipped to Mike, he structures it, set's the edges and waxes it, and recommends Rays way wax wizzard, no iron, once you have the "best" structure and perfect edges, it takes just a few minutes to polish with stones, rub the wax on and wizzard it in, your stock Coiler is a great start, getting it ground and having the edges set by whomever (skimd is the best, but any island in a storm) is a good way to go. Having a hand held edger, it's adjustable, holds files and stones is a good investment, 3degree edges don't happen by eye. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maxlanaudiere Posted December 19, 2015 Report Share Posted December 19, 2015 Might want to check ith Bruce, my coiler came with 2 degrees on the side and 1 on the base. Not 0/0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jatkinson Posted December 19, 2015 Author Report Share Posted December 19, 2015 I did check. Flat base and 1 deg edge. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bobby Buggs Posted December 21, 2015 Report Share Posted December 21, 2015 (edited) My coilers came not so flat on the base. I could not understand why I had trouble staying straight on long lift exit run outs. After a full grind they were perfect. I go 1x2 for bevel. Dont follow my maintenance schedule, Im the worst, I just ride them till they look like crap then bring um in like every year and a half. Edited December 21, 2015 by Bobby Buggs Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonny Posted December 23, 2015 Report Share Posted December 23, 2015 If you use an iron to apply wax you MUST remove the bindings, or at the very least back off the screws. Otherwise you get an ugly condition called “binding-suck” where the heat-softened P-Tex is pulled up toward the screw inserts. It takes a pretty thorough grind to remove this and while it may not have a huge effect on riding it will drive you nuts to look at it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
st_lupo Posted December 29, 2015 Report Share Posted December 29, 2015 I'm interested in this question too! I just received a brand-spanking-new Coiler this year and am terrified/thrilled by the possibilities (gruglede as is said in Norwegian). Bruce confirmed a 0-degree on the base and 1-degree on the side-wall. If it is too grabby in the lift-line I plan on bevelling the base to .5 degrees. After time I plan on sharpening the sidewall to the 2 degree that is standard in our household. I guess that it is sufficient to take a magic marker to the edges and just continue sharpening until the magic marker is completely worn away? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lordmetroland Posted December 30, 2015 Report Share Posted December 30, 2015 If you use an iron to apply wax you MUST remove the bindings, or at the very least back off the screws. Otherwise you get an ugly condition called “binding-suck” where the heat-softened P-Tex is pulled up toward the screw inserts. I'm not sure ironing causes binding suck, but I'm pretty confident it exacerbates it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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