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opinions on binders neuvo


lamby

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I love hard booting and riding plate bindings in all conditions from splendid groomers to chopped up crud to pillowy pow. I'm ready to move up from my old TD1s to either TD3s or sidewinders.

When I got started in carving (over ten years ago) I was on Burton race plates. I went to Trench diggers as i was breaking bales on the burtons. The change was dramatic and it took some getting used to. With the burtons i was used to a lot of play and flexibility in the binding/boot/board interface. Locking into the TD1's was like going from a big ol' Cadillac to a Ferrari. There was nothing subtle about the TD1s - every movement of the foot was transmitted to the board. After about two runs I was used to it and loved it!!! (I really liked that they were so responsive, and I think I still like that about them). When my wife started braking bales on her burtons we tried her out on a set of TD1s - she didn't like the TD1s at all. She went back to race plates (she still rides 'em - I change out the bales for new ones every few years).

So, I want to upgrade my bindings (I still ride TD1s - I also change out the to bales on my TD1s every several years - time to do that again or get new binders - going for the upgrade:).

I'm thinking I would be very happy with the TD3s. I'm not sure if I would be happy with the more flexible Sidewinders, but I'm intrigued by them and the improvements they are said to bring. I've done some searching and have found some threads about the benefits of the Sidewinders, but thought I'd try reaching out for some advice here. Anyone gone from TD1s, 2s or 3s to the Sidewinder and found that they did not appreciate the added side-to-side movement provided by the Sidewinders? (or does anyone have any thoughts on this topic in general? - all feedback greatly appreciated). Gracias, lamby

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Lamby, do you know if you want to go to standard or step in bindings?

Why do I ask? I personally found that the standards were a bit more "give" or flexibility than I liked. Keeping in mind I am well over 200lbs. I really want/need step-ins , so I jumped on the new TD3 SW SI bindings when Fin finally came out with them.

I have not got my normal number of days in, but I can tell you that I do NOT feel the very slight delay / flex I felt with the standards. This is comparing blue erings to blue erings. You do have the choice of yellow with the standards front and back , the SW SI , blue come in back.

This is good and bad for me. I had hoped to use the new TD3 SW SI on all my powder boards too (currently using F2 TI SI on my Tanker 200cm) I prefer the softer flex in the pow. So far, I think the TD3 SW SI will be a bit stiff for the pow, however , I think it might be perfect for the groomers.

In general , most will agree that the Step-ins are stiffer than standards.

So, long answer to a question you didn't ask, but I think is important.

Bryan

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Lamby, do you know if you want to go to standard or step in bindings?

Why do I ask? I personally found that the standards were a bit more "give" or flexibility than I liked. Keeping in mind I am well over 200lbs. I really want/need step-ins , so I jumped on the new TD3 SW SI bindings when Fin finally came out with them.

I have not got my normal number of days in, but I can tell you that I do NOT feel the very slight delay / flex I felt with the standards. This is comparing blue erings to blue erings. You do have the choice of yellow with the standards front and back , the SW SI , blue come in back.

This is good and bad for me. I had hoped to use the new TD3 SW SI on all my powder boards too (currently using F2 TI SI on my Tanker 200cm) I prefer the softer flex in the pow. So far, I think the TD3 SW SI will be a bit stiff for the pow, however , I think it might be perfect for the groomers.

In general , most will agree that the Step-ins are stiffer than standards.

So, long answer to a question you didn't ask, but I think is important.

Bryan

Hi Bryan

Thank you for your feedback on the various TD's.

Your comments regarding the TD sidewinders is the same information, regarding flex when compared to other bindings, that I have gleaned from the many posts here at Bomber.

Many riders love the TD sidewinders, both Standard and Step In, exactly as they are.

It also seems that many riders stay away from the TD SW's as they have a different feel then, for example, the F2 line of plate bindings; too high, heavy and stiff is what I have read other riders post.

Byan, I have also read that you are an equipment junky and a guy that likes to tinker (or Tinkler;) in the workshop ... so I have a question(s) of you (or maybe Fin):

1) Have you seen, tried or pondered any TD SW modifications that made is possible to further soften up the TD SW's ... so that they would be soft enough for a guy like you to use them in powder??

2) What would it take, with regard to modifications, to make the TD SW Step Ins feel as soft as the F2 Standard Race bindings?

3) Could the TD SW (standard or step in) be modified to make them as soft laterally as the F2 Carve RS, my preferred binding for powder ... I too am over 200 pounds?

Ideas:

Remove some of the material in the e-pads, so that they can compress more, allowing more movement.

Us the Boiler plate TD cant disk (the lower, perfectly round, center cant disk) to reduce the height and weight.

Thanks in advance for your thoughts.

Rob

Yes, I know the warranty would be void!

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I believe the trick is to find the optimal range of motion AND the flex (compression) curve. I am not sure with the mechanics involved (Bomber TD3 SW vs F2) that you can end up the same flex overall feel. The F2 (I believe) not only flexes differently laterally but also more front to back. Here is where your base or cant plate elastomer comes into play. There is allot going on with the interplay between these motions and flex curves. One is more linear than the other. One is a combination of compounded flex shapes. Way over my head :) Although some of these ideas and thoughts of how to end up with a plate binding that gives the powder flow of softboots have been bouncing around in my brain since the days of Miller bindings and the "Superpipe" boots. It seems there is always some downfall. Fin has allot on his plate right now, so I would not expect a quick answer. There is allot of conversation in the SES Crazy Carvers thread about plates and powder etc. I still would probably prefer to use my stiff soft boot set up if bending over each run wasn't such an issue. It is getting to the point where all the great equipment still isn't enough for a broken down body :smashfrea While other contemplate metal vs fiberglass, I am contemplating removing more metal from inside my body . To quote George Bernard Shaw "Youth is wasted on the young" , or something like that. Enjoy!! Bryan

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Rob.

Remove some of the material in the e-pads, so that they can compress more, allowing more movement.

Unfortunately I think this would cause "Slop". Having tried the yellow I know it quickly compressed and comes to a stop.

Couple weeks of riding them they look like the disks in my back. Mushed out and stress cracks.

Us the Boiler plate TD cant disk (the lower, perfectly round, center cant disk) to reduce the height and weight.

I am already doing this. I agree, I don't want more height but for a powder board you would loose the travel in the elastomer of the nice fat and juicy yellow ones vs the thin stiff red that are your only choice with the BP cant. Keep on thinking it though and running the scenarios. It's good for the brain:)

Another key component is the surface. If the snow surface is smooth , firm and chalky. I want my standard TD3 SIs , as was mentioned, giving better direct transmission of pressure. If it is less than ideal , some of the other bindings are better, more forgiving.

The best machines to make up the imperfections are strong legs, skill, good light(and vision) and time on the hill. Now I am just rambling, all done for tonight , another beer please.

Edited by www.oldsnowboards.com
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Scooby rides Td3 with yellow elastomer and suspension kit ment for Td2, for freeride. Very flexy.

Me, I don't bother with stiff bindings, trying to make them soft... F2 Carve Rs for me. Low, light, flexible, yet thick bails on newer versions.

Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk 2

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Scooby rides Td3 with yellow elastomer and suspension kit ment for Td2, for freeride. Very flexy.

Me, I don't bother with stiff bindings, trying to make them soft... F2 Carve Rs for me. Low, light, flexible, yet thick bails on newer versions.

Sent from my Nexus S using Tapatalk 2

I have a few pair, I should try the suspension kits.

I may have some of the RS too, just afraid of breaking them. They are plastic right?

Wouldn't be the first time I sucked the center disk through a binding or snapped a base plate in half. Couple members here still laugh when recalling me sliding down to the truck with the bindings still on my feet while I sat on a Tanker 200cm and rode back to swap out gear. I only missed one run :)

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Hi Bryan

Perhaps removing material from a firmer e-pads would allow the movement, without creating slop, in a more progressive manner ... but still permitting more movement.

Add to this that maybe the same movement could be gained, using the same principle as above, by removing material from the firmer red elestomer, under the perfectly round red Boiler Plate cant disk. (I imagine cutting out a few perfect circles from the elestomer.)

For me the purpose of the movement is to permit the body to rotation and also to move my weight more fore and aft, with flat stance angles, when floating on a surface that does not make it possible to push off of a solid surface (hard pack vs pow).

I think my goal is a bit different than the 'suspension' of bindings (and old legs like ours:) that you mentioned in your comments about binding selection and the type of condition.

Thanks again for your thoughts.

Rob

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Too tired to saying anything smart, just having another micro and re-live better days. 3 years ago today. I was only 53 :)

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I bought a set of TD3 SI SWs and a set of the SI SW uppers at SES. I don't notice any loss of control or precision over the 'normal' SI TD3s, but my knees sure do feel the difference (less pain/discomfort at the end of the day), and my ability to suck up terrain irregularities has went way up.

Only problem: The desire to buy more SW upper kits to convert 2 more pairs of bindings!

I haven't tried the Ibex binding though: http://bomberonline.3dcartstores.com/Ibex_c_59.html

They're cheaper and some very good/aggressive riders love them. The Pureboarding crew runs them exclusively. Joerg runs them with noticeable slop on the rear binding, I can't fathom how he doesn't pop right out!

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I may have some of the RS too, just afraid of breaking them. They are plastic right?

Even though I have had zero issues with the plastic F2 Rs, the thought of them breaking is why I ponder the TD SW mods.

I agree with BlueB, I no longer try to modify stiff bindings .... but I wondered if others have tried or have any thoughts.

I also believe that threads like these are why the TD SW's exist today:)

Cheers Guys

Rob

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Thanks for the feedback Bryan. Not interested in the step-ins. I'm trying to decide if I want to go with TD3s or sidewinders. I think I will be going for the TD3s. lamby

I would be tempted to suggest this. Get the TD3 SW Std, if they are too soft or you don't like the feel, put your wife on them and get the TD3 Std for yourself. Not cheap but now you are both on state of the art gear and can mix and match to your hearts content. Swap boards, cants, elastomers etc, etc. Knowing you are on burly gear that won't fail you and offers a ton of performance. I personally think you will love the TD3 SW Std (PS, those moving into the new TD3 SW SI will be selling off there bindings used soon :) )

Bryan

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