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Best, base edge file guide


Bricky

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What is the best base edge file guide ?

Seems like a file guide should span the whole width of the board, past the edge on the other side to adjust for a concave base problem. (If you have a convex base problem, you need a base grind). So the metal base file guide should be at least 20-23 cm long for a carving board and a lot more for a wider board. TOGNAR? SVST? SWIX?

Why use a base edge file guide which only reaches a small/partial distance across your Snowboard base?

Thanks, Bricky

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I just got hold of the vola base guide: http://www.vola.fr/eng/sports/product/base-edge-r-glable-de-0-5-1-5/133.html

with a good Icecut chrome file it is just amazing how fast you can do the base side..

I have tried to get the base edge done at 1° by good shops a few times with Wintersteiger top of the line machines....Each time the discs would eat a few mm of the base along with the edge...this is why hand tuning is far more precise if you have the right tool of course...but portable machines seem to be ok too since they use them in WC.

N

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Not too sure about having a guide that long but see your point. I used to free-hand sharpen with a given amount of electrical tape on the end of a long file to protect the base and to adjust for base edge angle. Perhaps an archaic approach but learned from some top techs working in a shop for many years and the edges were amazing. Last few years I moved to the Tognar Beast Base Level Guides and they work wonders. Hope that helps.

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The SVST base edge guide is the best, but it is also expensive.

The BEAST tools are pretty good, I have some of them.

I chose the BEAST, as you really don't need to use a base edge guide that much. Once your angle is set, and you are just polishing the base edge, for maintenance, it is not necessary.

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Not too sure about having a guide that long but see your point. I used to free-hand sharpen with a given amount of electrical tape on the end of a long file to protect the base and to adjust for base edge angle�..

Works well for me too. A little trig and a micrometer or dial caliper can make it as precise as you want. Make a mark on the file at the correct distance from the tape and keep that at the edge. File with a single-cut mill file held square across the board such that the shavings are ejected outboard rather than inboard where they will get embedded in the base. This will raise a burr on the edge which you can remove when filing the side bevel.

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