EZE Posted December 28, 2004 Report Share Posted December 28, 2004 Just found this board in the back room of my local ski shop and paid $99. Looks like it hasn't had many days. Anyone ever riden this stick? It has a yellow to black color shift from nose to tail and was designed by Mike Kildevaeld. Looked fun and fills the void in my quiver between 163 and 172. Thanks for any info. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P06781 Posted December 28, 2004 Report Share Posted December 28, 2004 I have that exact board and really like it although mine is now in rock board status. I wish it had 4x4 inserts as it was made in the pre insert time. It doeshave a nice metal insert (under the topsheet) that can be tapped for m6 screws. Bryan from oldsnowboards.com just bought one somewhere but said his was a 167 , I told him mine is a 169 exactly like yours. Does the shop have any more? I would interested if it did. Jim in PDX Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
www.oldsnowboards.com Posted December 28, 2004 Report Share Posted December 28, 2004 Hey Jim, my mistake. It is a 169cm. It has been ridden and it does have some of the symtoms you described to me the other night. However, it does look like with smallish base weld (not near an edge) and a base grind it should be totally rideable. Lots of side cut and stiff. I can see why you liked it all those years. You have first rights if I sell it? Thanks, Bryan Note To EZE: I have watched Jim ride that board in every condition imaginable. It should serve you well! Let us know what you think after riding it. Curious. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EZE Posted December 28, 2004 Author Report Share Posted December 28, 2004 Good info. I to was upset with no inserts especially as I ride regular and the previous owner was goofy. I have since removed the poor excuses for bindings and found the holes in perfect repairable condition with clean space for my old TD1s. Suggestions on mounting greatly accepted. I was picking up some boards when one kid said he had this old board out back. I imediately quaried him on this board and quickly purchased the item. As I walked to the car with my two tuned boards and the new, I was met with a glare from my wife and upon loading asked why there were three when we only dropped off two. I tried to explain that sometimes fate steps in and things happen. I was told fate would be buying the bench she did not receive for Christmas. Can't wait to ride it. Thanks, Eric Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
www.oldsnowboards.com Posted December 28, 2004 Report Share Posted December 28, 2004 Eric, I would caution you on mounting a pair of TD1s on the board unless you "T-bolt" it or "Insert" it. The earlier mounting methods spread the pattern out further than the center disc of a TD1 provides. A lighter rider might get away with it for a while. To be safe , I would do what Jim did and t-bolt it. Additional cost , yes, cheap insurance? YES!! Have fun. Often the first thing wifes of new friends say after the introduction is "You are not married are you??" They cringe , afraid that I will encourage their husbands to buy more snowboard gear. THEY HAVE GOOD REASON TO FEAR ME!!!! BUY MORE SNOWBOARD GEAR!!! :) "You do not have to justify your toys!" Don't recall who first said that , but I certainly live by it. After all , it is a toy. It is for fun!! Enjoy!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P06781 Posted December 28, 2004 Report Share Posted December 28, 2004 Mine is currently T-bolted in a 4x4 pattern as Bryan has described. I just went to home depot and bought the ones they sell there in 1/4" size and used some SS screws. I just did this again to 192 Tanker that I pulled the inserts out with my cateks. Just use a 3/4" wood drill and remove enough base to place the the t-bolt in . Try to minimize drilling into the core as this will weaken it. Assemble by using boat epoxy and using 4x4 discs with greased screws to clamp/pull it all together. I just left the hole open and sanded the tbolt flat with the base so it looks like a metal insert. Ugly but it works good. I broke a nitro asym epic 173 in half after tbolting and weakening the core too much. This caused me to buy the Ride (a good move). Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AJCdice Posted December 28, 2004 Report Share Posted December 28, 2004 I have the Liquid (post-ride) version of the 169 Kildy and it is among my favorites of all time!!! I wish it was in better shape--i would ride it more. This one has 4x4 pattern unlike the Ride. T-bolt that thing up! Its a great shape that was ahead of its time. ac Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Daneille Posted December 28, 2004 Report Share Posted December 28, 2004 I just want to let you guys know that sometimes wives are just as bad about gear :D Daneille Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P06781 Posted December 28, 2004 Report Share Posted December 28, 2004 What do they call the liquid (name and model) ? I will have to look for one of those some time.... Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EZE Posted December 29, 2004 Author Report Share Posted December 29, 2004 Brian sorry for the mix up on your name. Jim thanks for your info as well. So I'm going to drill directly through the board and push the T-nuts through in the 4 x 4 pattern then catch them on the top sheet with the bomber plates and standard screws? Should I trim a circle of ptex way from the T-nut so that it sits flush with the base? And when completed I will be riding on those T-nuts? Just want to double check before I drill. Brian I was just wondewring if you would be interested in a Burton Assym 5.3 with the orig. Burton plates. I bought this board new in 95 in Denver only maybe 25-30 days on it as I progressed very fast and the everything changed back to square tails soon after. Thanks Eric Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AJCdice Posted December 29, 2004 Report Share Posted December 29, 2004 Jim, The official name of the Liquid is "Race 169." It has Mike K's signature on it as well. AC Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Skully Posted December 30, 2004 Report Share Posted December 30, 2004 That would be the Liquid Race 169... Just got one off of E-bay... Haven't ridden it yet, but looking forward to it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
www.oldsnowboards.com Posted December 30, 2004 Report Share Posted December 30, 2004 Sure! Always interested in the oldsnowboards!! Sent you an email. Photos? Thanks again. Bryan Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
P06781 Posted December 30, 2004 Report Share Posted December 30, 2004 Originally posted by EZE Brian sorry for the mix up on your name. Jim thanks for your info as well. So I'm going to drill directly through the board and push the T-nuts through in the 4 x 4 pattern then catch them on the top sheet with the bomber plates and standard screws? Should I trim a circle of ptex way from the T-nut so that it sits flush with the base? And when completed I will be riding on those T-nuts? Just want to double check before I drill. Brian I was just wondewring if you would be interested in a Burton Assym 5.3 with the orig. Burton plates. I bought this board new in 95 in Denver only maybe 25-30 days on it as I progressed very fast and the everything changed back to square tails soon after. Thanks Eric Eric , You are going to mark your spot for the 4x4 holes on the top and drill straight through the bottom. Use the same size drill bit as the barrel of the t-bolt. Then take the t-bolts and break off the 4 points on the wide part by twisting then off with a pliers. Then from the base of the board drill a place in the p-tex with a 3/4" wood bit (the flat type) . This should just be big enough for the flange of a 1/4" generic t-bolt. Drill this hole deep enough to completely recess the metal flange of the tbolt but try to minimize removing any real core materal if possible. Warm the board and wet the area with marine grade epoxy . Press in the tbolts from the bottom and fill the extra spaces (except treads) with epoxy . Cover the bottom w/ saran wrap and flip the board over. Fill any space around the tbolt epoxy (except threads) . Take a 4x4 disc or td disk and screw this into the tbolts pulling it together from the top tightly. Note pre grease the screws so that you can remove them later. Let dry x 24hrs and remove and hand sand bottom flat . You can fill any holes on the bottom with epoxy if you want . Jim Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D-Sub Posted December 30, 2004 Report Share Posted December 30, 2004 you can use a hole cutting bit, too...dont have to worry about hitting the core as much AND...base weld material would bond to those t-nuts once theyre in, no? a little better finish? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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