Jump to content
Note to New Members ×

2011/2012 Upz Atb


Puddy Tat

Recommended Posts

Reposted from UPZ thread in main forum

My ATBs arrived today so I'll give you my initial impression.

Boot shell

First off the translucent red looks way cooler than I thought it was going to. I'm liking the look of the boot.

The boot shell as the same as any of the other boots in the UPZ line. But the material is so much softer. So soft in fact that even though my feet are phenomenally screwed up (flat, bone spurs, jutting out ankle bone) when I put the boot on and tightened everything down I was having difficulty telling if I would need any boot fitting done.

Boot heels

The shells came with the heels already t-nutted for installing step-ins. Thank you UPZ! I know this has been an issue for most of us here. The boots come with riser pads, screws (#2 Phillips) and locknuts for the installation of step-ins as well. UPZ calls the riser pads "shock absorbing plates" and has supplied them to be installed between your step-in and the boot shell. My personal opinion is this acts more to shin the step-in in line with the toe piece than it is for shock absorption.

All mounting screws on the boot, with the exception of the eight screws supplied for step-ins are torx heads in one of two sizes. UPZ supplies two torx keys for all of these. I removed the boots existing heels, which required twelve screws for each heel, and installed Fintec heels.

Boot toe piece

I mentioned in a post above that it looked like UPZ had modified the toe block because there was apparently some issues with them fitting into some bindings. I had heard there was a problem with Bombers in particular. I can confirm that there is no interference or issue with this years toe piece and a TD3 step-in. The toe pieces are attached with a beef screw but are not t-nutted. Which based on the design of the toe piece, boot interface I don't think is a problem. If you have issues with this take it to another thread please.

Both the toe and heel have a much more aggressive sole which looks like it would help provide stability which hiking. Unfortunately I lost half of this when I installed the step-ins.

Boot tongue

The red tongue is really soft. In fact the only way I can really describe it's consistency is rubbery. This tongue will not impede the flex of the boot in any noticeable way. In fact the tongue folded easily out of the way when I was putting the boot on.

Spring Mechanism

This appear to be similar to what is on my RTRs though I suspect the springs are much softer based on how much I can flex the boot.

Liners

The ATB uses what are called a Flo adaption liner which is definitely different than the ones used in my RTRs. The tongue is much softer than the RTRs, and doesn't impede the boot flex. The heel cup held my heel snuggly enough that i couldn't notice any movement. I was initially going to replace these with a Deeluxe 141 because I have had nothing but problems with liners with tongues, but I think I'll hold off and give these a shot.

Stiffness

Ok I'm 230lbs, and having been riding in, and flexing the snot out of RTRs, I know how to put pressure down and flex a boot. The boots are literally flexy enough to hike around in! I then stepped onto my AM board on the carpet which is set up with angles of 50/45 and TD3 step-ins. Laterally the boots seem to be stiff enough that, at hardboot angles, they would allow me to respectably carve a turn on our Rocky Mountain snow and are soft enough forward that I could absorb chop or suck up huge landings. Read as "I could fles the sh!t outta 'em". As a comparison laterally they feel like a Track 225, though forward and back they feel much softer because the spring allows a controlled forward and rearward flex. My opinion is with these I probably wouldn't require Sidewinders.

Conclusion

I'm a 230 lbs freak who has given up riding softboots completely. I ride UPZ RTRs with Fintecs into TD3 step-ins on a 173 Schtub for carving, but have been trying to put together a good AM set-up that fill feel floaty and surfy. I bought a custom 167 Donek last year outfitted with TD3 Step-ins and tried it with a set of Deeluxe 225s last year, and while it worked, no amount of boot fitting was able to allow me to ride the Deeluxe boots for longer than three hours with out pain.

I purchased the ATBs specifically for AM riding. The intention is mostly for light carving, off trail, trees, pow, and jumping. Personally I think these boots could be great in those applications. Perhaps with a slightly stiffer tongue it might even acceptably float between carving and AM really nicely.

I'll update this thread in January once I have had a chance to ride these a few times. Normally it would be earlier than that bit I'm in an MBA program right now an I'm slightly pressed for time.

Cheers,

Dave

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 1 month later...

I have a few more days in the UPZ ATB, so I figured I could chime in :)

I bought the 2011 white ATB last summer from Bola, rode them for a couple weeks at Abasin and Loveland boot packing. The original liner fit small, so I ordered a replacement and in the meantime used my tele liners, some thermowrap Scarpas. I was able to get a good fit and since I'm still waiting on my replacement liners I have cont to use the Scarpas.

I found the ATB to be quite soft when unlocked, so that meant I had to rode them locked, which was fine in firm conditions, but really not that great when the snow was soft/loose. So over the summer I puchase some older UPZ RTR with black and grey tongues. I replaced the sole with the ATB sole and then swapped tongues between the two boots, putting the red tongue on the stiffer RTR and the black tongue on the ATB.

I rode both boots one day at our local WSOD, then three days at Brighton (Utah). I can't say which boot I like more, they have some different riding characteristics, the RTR having a stiffer shell so lateral flex is less than the ATB, but with the stiffer tongue in the ATB it seemed to help with overall stiffness in the ATB.

I ended up preferring the ATB with the black tongue for all around riding, though I could easilly ride the RTR with red tongue and be quite happy; the RTR setup would be a nice way to get an ATB on the cheap :)

I have a couple concerns with the UPZ heel as the four bolts holding the heel in place are not that secure. Because the heel itself, not the shell, is retaining the heel bale, there is a lot of pressure on those four bolts. On the boot side, the Tnuts are pretty solid, but on the heel side the bolt heads are not that secure and could pull through the heel block. I can't see an easy fix other than modifying the heel block with some metal inserts to better retain the bolt heads. I did reinstall the RTR heel block with epoxy to reduce play between the boot and heel.

Also, if you do choose to order some ATB soles for an older pair or RTR, keep in mind that you do need to do some dremel/razor knife work in order to make the toe fit AND be sure and order the rubber "half moon" that fills the slot in the boot shell so the bale stays put.

I'll post some pics when I get a chance.

Great boots!!

P1030473-1.jpg

P1030568.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Okay, so the tongue swap was easy, just remove one buckle and clasp from the black tongue and RTR boot, then swap away. I plugged the holes with rubber sealant, worked great so far. I did end up using a long clasp (ladder) on the black tongue because the positioning placed it to far for the buckle to reach.

Adding the AT soles to the RTR was trickier, the heel is a perfect fit, but the toe requires some shaving along the edges where two ridges prevent the toe from making good contact with the boot shell. it was easilly done with a razor knife in fifteen minutes.

I'm hard pressed to say which boot combo I like best. For sure, the white "soft shell" ATB is a better all around boot with a stiffer tongue and likewise the RTR is a nicer all around boot and soft snow capable. Both were ridden locked and unlocked depending on snow conditions.

I like UPZ boots :)

Next step: Adding tech fittings (dynafittings) to one sole set for splitboard use.:1luvu:

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 11 months later...
question is: should I or shouldn`t I take a pair of UPZ ATB (white model with black tongue) as my first alpine hardboot? Experts, please advise me, I don`t have THAT many choices around here ;)

Well I'm far from an expert but my take is that the ATBs are too soft (toe-to-heel) to be effective as a carving boot on an actual carving board. Here's what I experienced last season.

I'm 215-225 lbs (call it 100 kg) and 6'2" tall. I primarily rode these with Fintec heels on a 163cm Donek Incline with TD3s step-ins and yellow elastomers at 50F/45R angles. I had replaced the ATB toe block with the standard UPZ snowboard toeblock (from the RC-10s), which allowed me to directly attach the Fintec heels to the shell (I didn't use their rubber shim pad). I took this set-up down double black steeps, through moguls, off drops up to 18ft, through thigh deep pow, and carved it on easy groomers. The boots performed fantastically all the time. However the board I was riding was probably a little soft for my weight.

I was having such a great time with the boots that I thought I'd try them on my Coiler Schtubby (173/21/13.4) which was built for a 215lb rider. The Schtubby is set-up with TD3 Step-ins and blue elastomers at 60F/55R and I'd normally ride it with a pair of UPZ RTRs. It just didn't work at all. I couldn't get any weight to the nose of the board and ended up just riding the sidecut of the board and making dangerously large turns because I could only tip the board on edge, not apply pressure to it. After about an hour and a half of trying to get some control over the board I eventually went down and swapped to my RTRs to ride the Schtubby.

I think the boot is great as an AM boot, but because it is so soft it has limitations as a carving boot on a stiffer carving board (especially with the red tongue that comes with it). I've switched the stock uber-soft red tongue for a black RC-8 tongue to stiffen the boot slightly.

Now my experience may not match yours as some of this would be dependant on how heavy and agressive you are and on what board you were planning to ride. That being said if you are buying a hardboot for AM riding the ATB will work well however if you are buying a hardboot for carving I think you would be either dissappointed with the performance of the ATB or would quickly run into the top end of its performance in that area.

Cheers,

Dave

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...