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Minds in the Water


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The reason I started Snowboarding was to Surf on the mountain...I put my stance at 45 45 in the beginning because that was what I used for surfing and skating and while those two brought much joy into

Got my fat ass  handed to me today I flew into Jacksonville a few days early for a family vacation thinking that I would attempt a few days surfing.  Staying at a slightly shabby yet fancy hotel

No doubt!! It looked gorgeous, and would have been if I was better. Last time was 5 years ago in Barbados at freights.  Nice beginner friendly break. Loved it there, actually  caught quite a few

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We've been getting some solid surf at Fort Point in San Francisco lately:

ftpt.jpg.6a6320fe12e630cc9833a298095c53b7.jpg

This spot doesn't fire a whole lot, but it has been weirdly consistent lately. I shot this on my iphone but I went back a few days later with a real camera, and shot four or five rolls of medium format shots, hopefully I will get a few keepers from that. 

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4 hours ago, softbootsurfer said:

surfed that back in 62, trippy what with Golden gate right there Eh ?

check out Peters wave a Mavericks, glad he didn't get hit by that lip...

 

 

Its a great spot! Did you surf deadman’s too? Watching people surf mavs is always a wild time 🙂

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It was no where near that good when we were there 🏄‍♂️🙃

no wet or dry suits either, coldest surfing ever, we found a good head high peak back down the coast, howling off shore though and hypothermia after only two waves...one of the things I love about being down in Nicaragua is the Hot water 😀

Here is a really bad Wipeout by Grant at Mavs the other day... they have had the best Sessions in years there, say Honolua going off yesterday while watching some Golf, double overhead off the outer point and clean...

https://www.surfline.com/surf-news/twiggy-mavericks-gave-slap-showed-whos-boss/109315

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howdy

recent uploads... a couple blast from the past...

CLASSIC 70'S NORTH SHORE🤙HAWAII GERRY, LARRY, MR, BUTTONS, BIKINIS: "TURN BACK THE TIME" SURF MOVIE

 

Classic 60s North Shore, Hawaii w Miki Dora, Greg Noll, The Duke etc "THE PIONEERS" big wave surfing

 

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