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Softboot carvers: Binding recommendations?


icebiker

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Are you sure you don't want to take the plung and just get hardboots and bindings? You could find used boots and bindings that would work for years for around $300 total. You would spend more than that on new softboots and bindings of any quality. You could use this with your board and then upgrade boards later on if you feel like HBs would work out for you. As for carving, it really is hard to beat a hard boot setup. I have riden a softboot carving board with both soft and hard setups and you sure can carve better with the hard boots. Much better response and edge hold. Softboots work great with the right conditions, but the HBs will give you better control all around.

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Are you sure you don't want to take the plung and just get hardboots and bindings? You could find used boots and bindings that would work for years for around $300 total. You would spend more than that on new softboots and bindings of any quality. You could use this with your board and then upgrade boards later on if you feel like HBs would work out for you. As for carving, it really is hard to beat a hard boot setup. I have riden a softboot carving board with both soft and hard setups and you sure can carve better with the hard boots. Much better response and edge hold. Softboots work great with the right conditions, but the HBs will give you better control all around.

Agreed, hence my post from a few weeks ago.

http://www.bomberonline.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=33305

Problems for me are:

a) The HSP 31.5's I ordered didn't fit me in the toebox area (and yep I had them evaluated by a professional boot fitter, who said he could get me fitted close to what I wanted, but couldn't completely relieve the pressure on the tips/tops of my toes (very important to me)).

b) I was loathe to have him mod the boots given my current board and bindings are borderline for a hardboot set up (as per the advice in the thread above).If I modded them (and they didn't feel right or weren't right for the board) I would not have been able to return them to the seller and it would have been an expensive experiment.

At some point, I plan to visit a proper alpine boarding store so I can avoid the "hit and miss" associated with getting things online and hoping they suit me. I live in NJ, but go to central VT from time to time. If anyone here has recommendations on shops, I'd be VERY grateful. :)

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Icebiker,

I'm in the Philly area (work at Bear Creek Mountain) and I have size 15 feet. I have an extra pair of UPZ's that you are welcome to try out. Shoot me an email if you are interested.

Mighty nice of you Phil!:biggthump Sent you an email. but then found out where Bear Creek is....not too far (certainly closer to me than Philly). Perhaps I can find a day to meet you at BCM. When you email me back, let me know what days/hours you work there and I'll find a way to work around your schedule.

Thanks again!! (and thanks again to all above with your recommendations...this is a great community full of excellent advice :biggthump)

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Actually, I made these Frankenbindings from Cateks FR2s and Flows XLTs. The only fabrication that was required was for 4 alu plates.

The cables broke after a few weeks so I replaced them with 3/16 in braided steel cables. Aluminum crimps didn't work too well to secure the cables. They slipped and failed so I resorted to using mini U-Bolts.

I have not used them this year, having converted to HB.

Now I get to tinker with Frankenplates:

http://www.bomberonline.com/vbulletin/showpost.php?p=339177&postcount=764

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I actually don't think that super stiff boots help with softboot carving as much as people think they do. Maybe its different as a boardercrosser, but I feel that stiff boots limit ankle flexion to a point where your ankles are too rigid to be able to absorb chatter or pump effectively. I use burton Sabbath boots, which are mid flex, with a CO2. I feel that the laces, midflex boot, stiff binding combo works better than stiff boot, stiff binding, or stiff boot, soft binding. Then again, maybe I'm just crazy...

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I've tried Malamutes and didn't care for them. Currently use Burton SLX boots which I picked based on their mid-firm flex and the articulated cuff which keeps the boot shape consistent during forward flex. Combined with the Burton C60 bindings it's a nice blend of response and support.

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  • 2 weeks later...
I actually don't think that super stiff boots help with softboot carving as much as people think they do. Maybe its different as a boardercrosser, but I feel that stiff boots limit ankle flexion to a point where your ankles are too rigid to be able to absorb chatter or pump effectively. I use burton Sabbath boots, which are mid flex, with a CO2. I feel that the laces, midflex boot, stiff binding combo works better than stiff boot, stiff binding, or stiff boot, soft binding. Then again, maybe I'm just crazy...

I also find the same thing.. going too stiff is like using hard boots on a soft twin tip...

If the boot won't let you flex over the edge... the board has too much leverage on your ankles = pain.

I greatly prefer lace up boots. I rode my SLX Burtons (perhaps 5 days) and they caused me great pain- the heel stay would smash my heel in the heel cup during deep toesides (perfectly fine if you don't angulate a lot toeside though- or use flows and lower angles) . sold them...went right back to lace ups. with lace ups - particularly if they have hooks you can use longer laces and "double up"... ie double your lace density (via overlapping and second passes) and vary the way they cross to custom tailor your flex.

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