Marc H Posted January 6, 2011 Report Share Posted January 6, 2011 See if you can get some good quality base material to have it repaired. I try to have that done in those situations instead of using P-tex. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lowrider Posted January 6, 2011 Report Share Posted January 6, 2011 How do you do that on 35 inch base?? The resort wasn't telling you a big porker about the actual cover? You must have been riding the rocks under the Strawberry chair! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gtanner Posted January 7, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 7, 2011 Yeah, probably caught it under the Angel Chair... Never rode Strawberry; Angel, Divide and Wawa. I'm guessing it was mid-toe-side, but to be honest I can't remember actually hitting anything. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
csquared Posted January 7, 2011 Report Share Posted January 7, 2011 Sorry to see that Gord. The ragged pattern at the edge side of the shot may be partly due to the fact that it is so close to the bonding flange on the steel edge . The bonding flange is located directly under the ptex and extends in almost exactly to the edge of the ragged line. There would be very good bond to the ptex over the flange too because a lot of excess epoxy works its way to the edge during the lay-up and pressing. I have to say this does not look like one of those conditions that would be easy to fix by routing a piece of the base out. You really don't want to try that in such close proximity to the edge. The Fleaman fix worked well because it was closer to the middle of the board and the patch was closer to being square (I am going by memory here) but you would need to router a very long strip out and I think this could be pretty susceptible to debonding. I'm with the "send it back to Bruce" crowd on this one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fleaman Posted January 7, 2011 Report Share Posted January 7, 2011 Wow, that was a doozie. I repaired a pair of skis that had 3 or 4 of those zipper rips on the base just as big too with great results. the local shop did not even want to touch it. I used metal grip and the ptex ribbon from tognar. I have a variable heat plastic welder with a small flat foot. it looks like soldering iron but with a feed tube for the plastic rod to melt into the repair. If you want to try doing it yourself, I can send you some metal grip and one of those ribbons if you can get a hold of a heat source there in Fort Mac. If not I am sure a shop in Calgary or Banff would fix that no problem. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Race_Carver Posted January 7, 2011 Report Share Posted January 7, 2011 Wow, that's a bad core shot. I'm not sure that a base weld will last very long considering the size of that tear. You could try it, but don't be surprised if it wears away quickly from the abrasion of the snow/ice. The only way to really fix that would be to order a small sheet of sintered base material from Tognar, a cutting template, and some base epoxy. Basically, you use the template to cut out a section of base around the tear, cut the same exact shape out of the sheet of base material, epoxy and clamp the patch into the hole. After the epoxy cures, you have the board stone ground. If done right, you will hardly see the patch. A sintered patch is the only thing that will be as abrasion resistant as the original base material. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tenorman Posted January 7, 2011 Report Share Posted January 7, 2011 hi GORD sorry about your new board. maybe you should think it through some more before making an irreversible repair attempt. i’ve carefully scrutinized your photos and it looks like one of the better options is also one of the easiest, cheapest and least skill intensive. your gouge isn’t a smooth clean slash but more like a messy jagged edged abrasion. when you prep the area for the patch you actually need to enlarge it by cutting away the messy jagged uneven parts and making a long symmetrical shape to ease the job of cutting out the matching repair patch. FLEAMAN’s coreshot is near the middle of his board and well away from the edge. so what he did was probably the best job possible. after he enlarged his irregular shaped coreshot into a roughly 2 by 2 inch square area symmetrical shape his patch was still very far from the edge. however, you are dangerously close to the edge after you cut away the jagged parts so you will have to work very carefully to ensure the edge is fully supported. because of the location of your gouge i think you are better off just dripping some epoxy into your UNALTERED gouge. the jagged parts will give the epoxy something to grab onto so you will probably end up with a better bond than if you tried to smooth it out and forcing the epoxy plug to span the entire 2 mm width of the gouge instead of 2mm less the width of the jagged part(s.) obviously use the best epoxy you can but i’ve made similar repairs just using ordinary JB WELD from the hardware store. another advantage of JB WELD is it is black coloured and will match the colour of the existing base. most reasonably priced ptex patches are about the same quality as extruded ptex so they won’t absorb much wax anyway. so the fact that your epoxy will absorb zero wax pales in comparison. your 4inch by 2 mm slash only yields about 200 square mm of surface area that will be epoxy instead of ptex—i doubt you will notice any loss of speed or ride quality. even if you did cut out a patch i doubt that you could work so precisely that you had no gaps to fill and blend in with epoxy after fitting in your probably not so exact fitting patch. assuming you are moderately skilled i doubt you could work to any tighter tolerance than 1mm per side anyway. The smallest your patch could be is probably 4inches by 4 mm (again assuming you are very skilled and you only enlarged the gouge at most 1 mm on each edge. therefore after you fit your patch you will still have a small gap on each side of the patch of about 1 mm so your total surface area of bare epoxy will still be about 200 square mm (4 inch long patch with a gap of 1mm on each side and I am ignoring the fact that you will probably have a small gap at both endpoints that will probably span the entire 4 mm width of the patch.) at least doing what i suggested doesn’t require enlarging the existing gouge to accept a symmetrically shaped patch. after test riding your epoxy repaired board, you can still choose to redo the repair with a proper ptex patch because you felt compromised by the fact that only 200 square mm of your ENTIRE running surface won’t absorb wax.. however, you need to ensure that you do a very precise patch job otherwise your edge may not be 100% supported. ...A sintered patch is the only thing that will be as abrasion resistant as the original base material. as RACE CARVER suggested try to get the more expensive sintered ptex sheets than the cheaper extruded ptex sheets most repair shops sell. like he says they will be as hard (abrasion resistant) as the original base material. (however, no ptex is harder or stronger or more supportive than properly cured epoxy lol.) oh one final advantage of epoxy (or disadvantage of ptex.) epoxy will basically bond to anything. ptex bonds to ptex and …..well i can’t think of anything else besides ptex unless you are a pro shop with all the expensive specialized tools. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEJ Posted January 7, 2011 Report Share Posted January 7, 2011 I've seen people do decent work with things like soldering irons. not ideal but does the trick and gets you started WAY cheaper than actual base repair tools. see the link on the page I already posted. I have not used the soldering iron method myself but have seen home jobs done with one. looked no worse than the average shop's work. Soldering iron runs about 1000F. Ptex iron from Tognar runs around 500F. Soldering iron will work, but you've got to be careful. Ptex iron is around $40 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gtanner Posted January 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2011 Here is how the temp repair looks after one day of riding..so just dripped P-tex. I'm trying to decide if I should just use a base layer of epoxy and then top it off with welded P-tex or should I use the metal "tape" p-tex that is designed to bond with the metal layer, then top it off with welded P-tex... Thoughts? <a href=" " title="SAM_0334 by tanner.gord, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5008/5341462133_f3de232b48.jpg" width="333" height="500" alt="SAM_0334" /></a> <a href=" " title="SAM_0335 by tanner.gord, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5089/5342073664_621cf13e11.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="SAM_0335" /></a> I did have a chat with Bruce, and he is recommending either a new board :) or to just use epoxy to fill in the base area completely. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueB Posted January 10, 2011 Report Share Posted January 10, 2011 Hi Gord. Sorry about your board. I think it's fixable. It's a longitudinal scratch, so even if just filled with epoxy and flattened, it shouldn't create much drag. However, you could try to put th epoxy as an interminent layer between metal and ptex. I would sand down the metal, then smear thin layer of epoxy, wait for that to cure, then sand again. Heat up the area just little bit, then don't drip the p-tex in, rather lite it up then smear/push in with motions similar to welding. Owerbuild with the new material. When all cold and set, trim with a sharp cheasle first, then sand down. The repair will be almost seamless and will not come out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmbischoff Posted January 10, 2011 Report Share Posted January 10, 2011 Well now that you put a p-tex candle into it, it is going to be VERY difficult to repair correctly. The p-tex candle has a lot of oils in it. Once you rip it out to try to do a real repair you will find that the base weld will not hold. There will be a lot of liquid leaking out of your base, this is from the p-tex candle. You should really base weld it with edge grip. It is the hardest base material out there. And will 100% protect your edge. Good luck! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmbischoff Posted January 10, 2011 Report Share Posted January 10, 2011 The KEY part of using a base weld is the heat the welder puts off. It heats the surrounding base enough so the base bonds with what you are adding(edge grip); the additive and existing melt together. That s the key part so it will support your edge properly and not rip out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gtanner Posted January 10, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 10, 2011 Well now that you put a p-tex candle into it, it is going to be VERY difficult to repair correctly. The p-tex candle has a lot of oils in it. Once you rip it out to try to do a real repair you will find that the base weld will not hold. There will be a lot of liquid leaking out of your base, this is from the p-tex candle. You should really base weld it with edge grip. It is the hardest base material out there. And will 100% protect your edge.Good luck! I completely agree, but I needed to ride the board a second day so I needed a quick repair. I agree that it isn't ideal, but it was a hotel room repair. -Gord Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Allee Posted January 10, 2011 Report Share Posted January 10, 2011 The KEY part of using a base weld is the heat the welder puts off. It heats the surrounding base enough so the base bonds with what you are adding(edge grip); the additive and existing melt together. That s the key part so it will support your edge properly and not rip out. That was ny understanding as well. When I did my course we went over deep repairs, and they told us that the keys are cutting a V-shape into the repair area that allows you to build the layers up properly, and using enough heat (usually a hotfoot) to get a strong bond. Also, being patient - building the repair up in thin, strong layers and not just jamming in a chunk of p-tex and hoping for the best. As for the exisitng repair, it's likely that they'll cut it all out before doing a new one, so I wouldn't stress too much. Surely any reputable shop should be able to do a good fix on this for you? (And nice to see that conditions are Sunshine are still as stellar as they were in Dec - I have a few p-tex repairs to be done on my Donek too.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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