Gtanner Posted January 5, 2011 Report Share Posted January 5, 2011 I was riding at Sunshine this weekend, and apparently I managed to find a rock mid-carve… The gash is through the P-tex and a strip of metal on my beautiful Coiler is now showing, about 4” long and maybe 1.5-2mm wide and looks almost serrated (like the P-tex almost tore). I’ve read through a bunch of topics on this forum and others about base repair with big chunks out of a metal board/ski, but couldn’t really find any with respect to a long/deep scratch that is ~1cm away from the edge. I’m wondering if anyone has any experience with this. My short-term repair (so I could ride the next day) was to melt some regular P-tex into the scratch and it held up ok…not great but ok. I’m curious as to whether I should consider cutting out a patch (all the way to the edge or not?) and repairing it with epoxy, or should I buy some metal-grip p-tex like the stuff on Tongar and then repair everything with a candle or welding iron. I’ll try to get some pics up tomorrow (just got a new camera, trying to figure it all out). Any thoughts or suggestions would be appreciated. My goal is for a permanent repair that I don’t have to worry about constantly. I know this will likely be a somewhat time-consuming exercise, but I don’t have any trust-worthy shops in town, so unless I ship the board somewhere (which I may do to either repair or re-base the board), I’m stuck with a DIY repair. Thanks, Gord Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KingCrimson Posted January 5, 2011 Report Share Posted January 5, 2011 I coreshotted a metal Coiler. I could never get the ptex candles to bond to the metal. But I could get epoxy to bond to metal, and ptex to bond to epoxy. Did your ptex repair chunk out or did it just abrade really fast like most candle repairs? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
inkaholic Posted January 5, 2011 Report Share Posted January 5, 2011 Send it to Bruce. He knows the board, he has the knowledge, he has the materials. You know it is done right. Ink Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KingCrimson Posted January 5, 2011 Report Share Posted January 5, 2011 http://www.bomberonline.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=24155&highlight=fleaman I think Bruce prefers to build a new board when they get damaged. :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CarvingScooby Posted January 5, 2011 Report Share Posted January 5, 2011 I was riding at Sunshine this weekend, and apparently I managed to find a rock mid-carve…The gash is through the P-tex and a strip of metal on my beautiful Coiler is now showing, about 4” long and maybe 1.5-2mm wide and looks almost serrated (like the P-tex almost tore). Ouch, sorry to about the board. Pix will tell thousands of words... Send it to Bruce. He knows the board, he has the knowledge, he has the materials. You know it is done right. +1 to some degree of the damage...maybe Bruce can give some suggestion after looking at the pixs.. RT Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jonny Posted January 5, 2011 Report Share Posted January 5, 2011 A good repair guy will cut out a regular shape and install a patch which should be pretty durable. P-tex candles and such won't last more than a day at best. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmbischoff Posted January 6, 2011 Report Share Posted January 6, 2011 be careful where you bring that to!!! DO NOT use a p-tex candle or even a p-tex gun. You want that base welded with a thing called edge grip. Be careful what shop you bring it to. if you are anywhere near vt, bring it to a shop called the startingate. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEJ Posted January 6, 2011 Report Share Posted January 6, 2011 Tognar tools has a lot of stuff for this. I got a ptex iron and two kinds of patch material. The first layer is part ptex, part adhesive. I think they called it metal tape. It bonds to the core or edge, but is really soft. You top this first layer with the Ptex tape, (which bonds with the metal tape) so the finished surface is pure ptex. Google tognar tools, I think they have a video of the process Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fleaman Posted January 6, 2011 Report Share Posted January 6, 2011 We could probably help you out more with a picture, but I would probably do what I did in my old patch post but on a bigger scale (using a template. I made my own out of thin plexiglass) As far as I know now you can bond p-tex to titanal as long as you sand it and apply the glue as soon as possible. Make sure if you are doing the patch to get a good high quality epoxy as the stuff in the syringes you buy at the hardware stores will not hold up in the long run. It is not that hard to do and you don't need tons of tools either. Email me if you need some advice. I am not a pro yet but I have done a few boards for myself and friends with good results and beer for payment. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobdea Posted January 6, 2011 Report Share Posted January 6, 2011 A good repair guy will cut out a regular shape and install a patch which should be pretty durable. P-tex candles and such won't last more than a day at best. yes, this is called a weld. http://www.slidewright.com/base_repair.php Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boarderboy Posted January 6, 2011 Report Share Posted January 6, 2011 yes, this is called a weld. http://www.slidewright.com/base_repair.php This is a great link and site. BB Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
valsam Posted January 6, 2011 Report Share Posted January 6, 2011 This is a great link and site.BB The method shown at that link didn't work for me! I have tried that kind of repair with on an almost exactly same core shot on a glass board of mine and it doesn't hold,i have done it over and over again maybe 5-6 times because even if it looks nice after i finish it once i ride the board the filing cracks,i tried all sorts of ptex candles,strips and with flaming and dripping and welding but the damn thing keeps on cracking! So is it that I'm not using the correct ptex or do i burn it and the ptex looses it's structure or is it that for a gape that big the only solution is cutting a strip and gluing it down with epoxy? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmbischoff Posted January 6, 2011 Report Share Posted January 6, 2011 Please Do Not Use Epoxy On The Base Of Your Board!!! Please!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
valsam Posted January 6, 2011 Report Share Posted January 6, 2011 Please Do Not Use Epoxy On The Base Of Your Board!!! Please!!! Why not? I can see the glass underneath the ptex and it has a resin! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmbischoff Posted January 6, 2011 Report Share Posted January 6, 2011 Can you upload a picture? Where are you located? Would you be willing to ship it to a shop for them to fix it? You need to get a base weld in there. If you were to put epoxy in there first, allow it to dry then try to base weld over it, the base weld will not hold. The oils in the epoxy will mess everything up. And the epoxy will melt under the heat of the base welder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
valsam Posted January 6, 2011 Report Share Posted January 6, 2011 Can you upload a picture? Where are you located? Would you be willing to ship it to a shop for them to fix it? You need to get a base weld in there. If you were to put epoxy in there first, allow it to dry then try to base weld over it, the base weld will not hold. The oils in the epoxy will mess everything up. And the epoxy will melt under the heat of the base welder. Maybe you didn't understand but i was referring to epoxy a patch over the gap like http://www.bomberonline.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=24155&highlight=core+shot not putting epoxy and welding ptex after! When you melt or weld a big core shot the ptex that you apply bonds with the boards ptex at the perimeter of the gape and melts on the core (metal-carbon-glass)but doesn't become one with it so that's why i think i need to epoxy underneath the patch so it would stick in there for good! Someone correct me if I'm wrong please! Also it seems to me that ptex candles and strips lose there structure when heated or burned and are more durable cold ,when heated and applied most can be easily scratched even with my fingernails but before melting are harder and more durable! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmbischoff Posted January 6, 2011 Report Share Posted January 6, 2011 if you base weld the board with a specific type of p-tex called edge grip it will bond and hold with your core(metal, glass...) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEJ Posted January 6, 2011 Report Share Posted January 6, 2011 mmbishoff hit it on the head. The first layer in a core or edge shot needs to be the rod that has adhesive in it. Tognar calls it metal tape, mmbishoff called it edge grip. Think of it as primer to make the ptex stick.I do it just like bobdea's link. It works. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
valsam Posted January 6, 2011 Report Share Posted January 6, 2011 Sorry then,i didn't know that there was such a ptex with adhesive in it! Wish i could get a stick of it here in Europe! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmbischoff Posted January 6, 2011 Report Share Posted January 6, 2011 yeah, it doesn't come in a stick and you need a base welder to be able to use it. If you know of a shop that can do base welds and they just don't have metal grip I can send you some. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobdea Posted January 6, 2011 Report Share Posted January 6, 2011 yeah, it doesn't come in a stick and you need a base welder to be able to use it. If you know of a shop that can do base welds and they just don't have metal grip I can send you some. I've seen people do decent work with things like soldering irons. not ideal but does the trick and gets you started WAY cheaper than actual base repair tools. see the link on the page I already posted. I have not used the soldering iron method myself but have seen home jobs done with one. looked no worse than the average shop's work. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Gtanner Posted January 6, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 6, 2011 Here ya go. Thanks for all the comments thus-far. <a href=" " title="SAM_0215 by tanner.gord, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5170/5330511855_a3f12030af.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="SAM_0215" /></a> <a href=" " title="SAM_0212 by tanner.gord, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5284/5331121950_32f738763f.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="SAM_0212" /></a> <a href=" " title="SAM_0211 by tanner.gord, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5048/5330510937_a5f759743d.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="SAM_0211" /></a> <a href=" " title="SAM_0207 by tanner.gord, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5202/5330510471_86412618cb.jpg" width="500" height="333" alt="SAM_0207" /></a> Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
110/220V Posted January 6, 2011 Report Share Posted January 6, 2011 do not covet your beautiful expense board...yes because it is only a matter of time, yea? but this is a friendly reminder on a friendly internet forum...you are welcome here, and some post are very interesting and helpful and fun but remember that real people ((not just in your country) regard you as person and not as a reflection of the fancy thing you wear or do or own. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobdea Posted January 6, 2011 Report Share Posted January 6, 2011 OMG that's a good one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mmbischoff Posted January 6, 2011 Report Share Posted January 6, 2011 Yikes! you really did a nice job on that board! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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