Ear dragger Posted December 25, 2010 Report Share Posted December 25, 2010 do the F2 bindings have the ability to add toe/heel lift, to the front and rear foot? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buell Posted December 25, 2010 Report Share Posted December 25, 2010 Yes, but if you want a lot on each foot, you will need more wedges. They are very adjustable if you use combinations of 2 opposing cant wedges for lift. Edit to add: If you do not need canting, you can get about 4.5* of lift on one boot and about 3* of lift on the other boot with the stock wedges. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ear dragger Posted December 25, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 25, 2010 Just to clarify. I can achieve toe lift and heel lift with what is included with the bindings Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buell Posted December 25, 2010 Report Share Posted December 25, 2010 Just to clarify. I can achieve toe lift and heel lift with what is included with the bindings Yes. There is a lift block that is about 4.5* of lift. There are also 4 cant wedges that, when stacked give you about 3* of straight lift for the other boot (if you do not need them for canting). I use 2 opposing cant wedges for about 1.5* of straight lift. Check with YYZ about cant and lift wedge availability if you need more. How much lift do you want on each boot? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bobby Buggs Posted December 25, 2010 Report Share Posted December 25, 2010 Buell, let me help you The top two are for my back foot heel lift, the front right is 2 stacked for front foot toe lift, the other 2 could be used for inward or outward cant, or you could stack them to create a higher lift for toe or heel. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buell Posted December 25, 2010 Report Share Posted December 25, 2010 Thank you Bobby. I am not in the same town as my gear at the moment. Why are there no channels on the two on the lower left, homemade? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bobby Buggs Posted December 26, 2010 Report Share Posted December 26, 2010 Not home made, just older Proflex versions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ursle Posted December 26, 2010 Report Share Posted December 26, 2010 I've got two cants without the channel and don't want to use them because of the way they would ruin the pieces above and below them, the channels keep the binding more secure. imho YYZ has replacement lift kits for 12$ and cant kits for 8$ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ear dragger Posted December 26, 2010 Author Report Share Posted December 26, 2010 thanks for the replies. I'm considering buying a set for racing. I assume the F2 is quite a bit lighter than catek os2's. are they more like burton plates or sno pro's? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr.E Posted December 26, 2010 Report Share Posted December 26, 2010 thanks for the replies. I'm considering buying a set for racing. I assume the F2 is quite a bit lighter than catek os2's. are they more like burton plates or sno pro's? They are sot of like an aluminum Burton base with a steel center disk and snowpro-esque toe and heel blocks. By the time you get a lot of heel and toe lift/ canting I'm not sure they will be much lighter then your Cateks. Certainly a bit more of a PITA to dial in (depending on how picky you are). Nice bindings though- I have a pair of the older Proflex Ti Race that are going strong with a lot of days on them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buell Posted December 26, 2010 Report Share Posted December 26, 2010 They are definitely lighter than Catek OS2s. A couple of years ago F2 started using a 5.9mm bail instead of a 5.5 mm bail they had been using. The new ones are a little heavier than the old ones. This compares to a 5 mm bail on the Burtons and a 6 mm bail on the Bombers and Cateks. The new F2s are a little stiffer than the 5.5mm bail ones but most of the flex is in the base so they are not that different I am pretty sure the added flex in the F2s allows less you to be less exact with your cant and lift than the rigid Cateks and TDs since they are able to adjust more when you are riding. F2s do not have the adjustment precision of the Cateks but they are so much more simple. They are also really easy to move from board to board. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philw Posted December 27, 2010 Report Share Posted December 27, 2010 What he said. The wedges weigh nothing; they're not going to add any weight. The original centre plates were heavier than the new ones. Mine are stuck in LHR or I'd tell you how much they weigh. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr.E Posted December 27, 2010 Report Share Posted December 27, 2010 I just meant that the weight of my bindings never felt like a hindrance, so being a bit lighter was a non issue for me. It's hard to beat the all-included hardwear and infinate options of the Cateks, but if you don't need that the F2's are great. That said I'd be happy to trade mine for a pair of TD3's. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Buell Posted December 28, 2010 Report Share Posted December 28, 2010 When I tested the SWers after riding F2s for a few years, I absolutely noticed the weight and size of the SWers while riding. I don't know how that would be affected if you are riding on a plate as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
terekhov Posted January 25, 2011 Report Share Posted January 25, 2011 Yes, but if you want a lot on each foot, you will need more wedges. They are very adjustable if you use combinations of 2 opposing cant wedges for lift.Edit to add: If you do not need canting, you can get about 4.5* of lift on one boot and about 3* of lift on the other boot with the stock wedges. but you need to consider the fact that wedges put enormous tearing stress on flange of t-nuts used under the base plate. so if you use wedging - you definitely need to inspect those t-nuts once in a while, and replace sooner than later. learned it the expensive way) flat-footed (thanks WB:) for some years since then Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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