Sidewall Plaining?

[NMU Alpine Boarder]

I was tuning my Volkl RT last night and noticed that my edges are to the point where the edge is flush with the sidewall... I can't run a file/stone without taking off sidewall material before touching the edge... Currently my side bevel is 3*...

Is it possible to shave the sidewall in this instance or is that only to be done on race skis? Are there any other options available to me? I didn't work the edge to a point of no return, did I?

[Jack M]

no, you're fine. you can trim the sidewall. I think you need a special tool to do that though. I don't trust myself to do much tuning, so I don't know much else.

[queequeg]

no, you're fine. you can trim the sidewall. I think you need a special tool to do that though. I don't trust myself to do much tuning, so I don't know much else.

It's pretty easy to plane the sidewall material. I've had to do it to several of my boards using the "ergo sidewall planer" on this page:

http://tognar.com/bevel_edge_base_side_steel_tools_guides_ski_snowboard.html

The key to getting a nice result is to run a few passes where it removes just a little bit of the sidewall at a time, adjusting the bit a little bit each time, so that you get a nice smooth result. You can do it more quickly, removing lots of material in just one pass but it won't look as nice if you do ... that won't affect your boards performance of course.

[trailertrash]

Not trying to give you the "try the search newb!" response but I do think this was discussed. It might have been last season.

[pokkis]

On Tooltonic file you will get very effective sidewall cleaner also with

http://www.tooltonic.com/tuningFile.asp

[lowrider]

You have a small margin to play with but after you use that up your done! You are getting into the meat and potatoes of your board. The side wall isn't there to just look pretty thats where your edges get all their support take away too much and edges will pull out and distort. Unlike a lot of skis most snowboard edges are serrated on the inside where you can't see. That doesn't give as much support as ski edges which are usually solid inside and out. there is also a layer of rubber under the edges to cushion. Everything here is a balance and you want (need) to mess with it. Using a router to remove sidewall is effective. If you are rock steady like a brain surgeon continue if not set up a fence along the board and go slow take off the least am't of material you need to . If it all works out you have more riding to do if not don't try to sell it on BOL we are watching for your posts . Wetstone the edges more, file less.

[heroshmero]

Take it to a decent shop that tunes race skis. It doesn't have to be a snowboard shop. Tell them to plane the sidewall. They do it all the time to race skis. They'll take off a little of the sidewall material and that will expose more of the metal edge.

[bobdea]

Take it to a decent shop that tunes race skis. It doesn't have to be a snowboard shop. Tell them to plane the sidewall. They do it all the time to race skis. They'll take off a little of the sidewall material and that will expose more of the metal edge.

we have a winner!

that's what I'd do if not comfortable with the DIY approach. some file guides even have a 8 degree setting that works in a pinch just you be careful if you do it that way.

[scrutton]

I took a tuning clinic recently from a local ski racer. His claim was that the first thing you do is plane the sidewall, before bother trying to set an edge, otherwise you end up dulling your file. The sidewall planer is a neat device, I shall be buying one before the end of the season.

[Juha]

Completely agree with above. The tooltonic sidewall plane is really neat. Takes just a couple of passes

[Race_Carver]

I took a tuning clinic recently from a local ski racer. His claim was that the first thing you do is plane the sidewall, before bother trying to set an edge, otherwise you end up dulling your file. The sidewall planer is a neat device, I shall be buying one before the end of the season.

Yes, that is one of the first things you do to a new ski/snowboard or to a used one that hasn't had the sidewall lip set back. You won't dull the file, the lip is only plastic, but you will clog it up, preventing the file or diamond stone from sharpening the edge.

There are several ways to do this. You can buy a dedicated sidewall planer. I like using short section of panzer file, held at an angle, to peel the lip back. I just free hand it. The idea is to create a sharper acute angle on the lip than what angle you use to sharpen the edge with.

For example, if you use a 3 degree angle on the side edge, putting a 5 to 10 degree angle on the protruding plastic lip will keep the file from contacting the lip as you sharpen. The angle on the lip doesn't have to be exact, just more than what you sharpen the metal edge with.

One addition thing: I only file when the edges are truly dull. For day to day sharpening, I use diamond stones. I do a few passes with a medium coarse stone to knock down any burrs, then do a few passed with progressively finer stones. This only takes a few minutes, keeps the edge very sharp, and eliminates excessive edge removal by filing. I probably only use a file once every 3 to 4 weeks, and even then only try and remove just enough material to get the edge back. I finish up by doing a few passes with a fine diamond stone.

[pokkis]

That is very wise advice. I'm using these rotating diamonds to keep my edges sharp, pretty much never use file.

http://www.tooltonic.com/twinRotoConcept.asp

[NMU Alpine Boarder]

Thanks for the advice guys

I actually only use a file to clean up any major damage... 9 times out of 10, it's a pass with a corse Diamond stone, then touch-up work with medium/fine stones...

As for taking my board into a shop, I thought about that, but I'm in Chicago... To be blunt, I don't really trust the shops within an hours drive... With the cost of a sidewall planer being $40-50, I figured if I used the tool a few times, I would pay for it instead of dumping $20 to have a shop do it each time...

I'll make a few calls and see what shops around here can do exactly...

[BlueB]

Your edges are currently 3*, right? Just sharpen them using the 2* guide - it will never touch the plastic. This would give you another year, or so, of life. When the edges are to bad and too close to sidewall again, repeat with 1* guide. After that, you still have the 0* oiption, before you had to plain the sidewalls...

[Keenan]

I have beaten up the toe edge of my metal board with Fintec heels. Yes, I know I shouln't smack the two together, it just happens. Can you plane a Titanal board due to this type of damage or is it better to build up the sidewall with epoxy?

[BobD]

I have beaten up the toe edge of my metal board with Fintec heels. Yes, I know I shouln't smack the two together, it just happens. Can you plane a Titanal board due to this type of damage or is it better to build up the sidewall with epoxy?

If you look at the tuning companies websites, you will see that there are two types of side wall planer. One has a square blade (with rounded corners), which is for the sidewall it's self. The other has a round blade for the titinal layer above the edge.

[MR. JOHN DEERE !]

i create an higher angle than my side edge angle, to take away the sidewall to expose the edge with teh PANZER FILE. also depending on the the sidewall material, by using the tip of your file, not the file teeth, but the end of the file. you can apply pressure, too also scrape away the sidewall. i've used both methods, and they both have worked. titanal and glass boards.

skimd, uses a special tool, to do this and it comes out perfect. but i think he's up too around $150 per tune these days.

good luck !

[rjnakata]

skimd, uses a special tool, to do this and it comes out perfect. but i think he's up too around $150 per tune these days.

If you use the Ergo sidewall planer (or others) does it come out looking like the way SkiMd does it? Is there any way to replicate that look DIY?...it's pretty nice the way they do it.

[scrutton]

here's a link that describes stuff a bit

http://www.jonsskituning.co.uk/content/view/20/34/

[John Gilmour]

Take the end of the file (away from the point) I use SVST or Swix files. Clamp board (or squeeze between some strong chicks legs) and hold the edge at an angle and gouge the plastic away.. then de-burr gummy or diamond stone, and tune.

If you mess up... wait until 2pm when resort shops are slow..staff starving.. bring in a single slice of pizza to have them fix your mess.

Tip...practice on a beater board.. it takes about 3 edges to become pseudo good and maybe 3 boards to make it look real good.

Those planers are $$

Did every Madd board in the fleet this way..they come out really nice.

[Fastskiguy]

As for taking my board into a shop, I thought about that, but I'm in Chicago... To be blunt, I don't really trust the shops within an hours drive... With the cost of a sidewall planer being $40-50, I figured if I used the tool a few times, I would pay for it instead of dumping $20 to have a shop do it each time...

I'll make a few calls and see what shops around here can do exactly...

Viking does a fair bit of race ski tuning so that might be an option. But I can sure appreciate getting the equipment and doing it yourself too.

I used to be a big fan of busting out the panzer file all of the time but I've switched to this sandpaper kind of thing, it is a lot like a diamond stone if you use the finer paper.

http://alpineskituning.com/cms/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=57:rays-way-side-edge-beveling-tool&catid=37:products&Itemid=70