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Posted

Hey all. I haven' posted on here in a few years. I first joined and posted a few years ago when I decided to try alpine boarding. I was planning to have everything set up within a year or so.

Just to put things in perspective, i'm 6'1'', 235lbs and live in Moncton Canada. I have been riding snowboards since 1996 approximately. I'm not that much of a daredevil, and have virtually no balance, which is why I don't jump much. Most times I tried something worth mentioning, I ended up on my stomach, breath blown right out of me. So I mostly stay on the track, take the odd little jump, or even better, I go in deep powder; I don't get to do that often however, we don't get much of that here in Atlantic Canada. Woe is us.

That is why I got thinking about alpine boarding. Mountains around here are ridiculously small for this sport, but we do make one or two significant trips a years to decent mountains, lately it's been Sunday River and Sugarloaf.

So about 3 years ago, I bought a used naked alpine snowboard, with the help of a fellow boarder from this community who lives in Quebec. However, I never got around to buying the other 2 components needed. Board is still sitting in my basement, and I couldn't even tell you the model or board length. This has to change. I admit I'm still a bit tight financially right now, and the prices of the new stuff on the Bomber store are so high it's scary. And looking at the classifieds, I really don't know what would be good for me. The boots especially seem to be a touchy business. However, I found this on ebay:

http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=110614278018&ru=http%3A%2F%2Fshop.ebay.ca%3A80%2F%3F_from%3DR40%26_trksid%3Dp5039.m570.l1313%26_nkw%3D110614278018%26_sacat%3DSee-All-Categories%26_fvi%3D1&_rdc=1

in case that link doesn't work, use this ebay item number to look it up : 110614278018

what do you all think of that? seems like a deal, and at the least it would get me good bindings for not a lot of money, even if the board sucked. And it would still add a board to my quiver. I'm waiting on your advice, both about this item, and your recommendations for my situation in general.

It just bugs me that i'd have to buy 600$ boots and 350$ bindings to get to TRY the sport...

jf

Posted

your main issue will be shipping, if you can't find anything locally. ebay.de usually has plenty of hardboots listed, so long as you like wacky colours and the seller will ship to you.

Posted

yes i agree...but I have already made my peace with finding anything local. I won't even be able to find anyone around here to teach me. I'll be the eccentric weirdo sporting the old school board...

So compared to the new stuff on this site, shipping doesn't seem that bad a price to pay. This guy, for example, charges 30 euros to ship international. That's around 50$...not bad...

Posted

Newcarver,

If you happen by Sugarloaf, get in touch in advance. I have several pair of clamps you can demo. (Catek OS1/ 2, Bomber TD2).

As Jack suggested, post your boot size. If I don't have something usable, I might know someone who does.

Posted

LOL thanks for the link to ebay.de...I have to say you guys seem to have it good in Denmark, but there are indeed colors in there that weren't created by God.

Thanks for the input guys. I appreciate a lot. My shoes are usually 11. I just measured again, and I come up with mondo 28 for the left foot and between 27 and 27.5 for the right. I guess that would make me mondo28. I will DEFINITELY get in touch with you if I go to Sugarloaf. I was actually planning on going there this winter, hopefully in the last week of February or so. I will let you know.

Keep me in the loop if any of you find a deal, I'm tight right now, but after the holidays might be a bit better, so I'd be open to options then! As for courses, I think when I go to Sugarloaf I might take courses. I found out that Eric Beckman teaches hardbooting there. Might be an option...either that, or any experienced hardbooter willing to pass on the tradition!

Posted

How to find your boot size: http://www.bomberonline.com/store/boots/Sizing_boots.pdf

Buying new is harsh for something you're just trying out. There are often bindings selling for $100 in the classifieds here, and boots are all over the map.

If you have the budget, get new thermo liners now. They rock. It's amazing how much easier everything seems when your feet are comfortable and warm. If not, try it to confirm you like it with whatever used equipment you can find, then add some thermo liners to whatever boots you end up getting when you can afford them.

Don't worry about hill size. I regularly ride on 400' to 500' of vertical and have tons of fun. Going to the mountains with 5000' of vertical rocks, but it's just 12 times as far to the bottom. It's not like you can't link 20+ turns on 400' of vert. It can be hard to find steeper runs, but that won't matter when you're just getting started.

Posted

Thanks again for the info all of you. I would definitely want thermo flex liners...but i originally assumed that if there is one part i'd want to buy new, it's the boots, precisely because of the liners. Now you are making me doubt. Should I get used ones, and get their used thermo flex liners remoulded to my feet? or buy new liners to go with used boots?

By the way if anyone knows of people willing to give lessons or at least tips to a starter, either in sugarloaf or somewhere in Quebec, let me know...

What's the final concensus on that Hot Blast board and F2 bindings?

would 176 be long enough for me?

Posted
LOL thanks for the link to ebay.de...I have to say you guys seem to have it good in Denmark, but there are indeed colors in there that weren't created by God.

Thanks for the input guys. I appreciate a lot. My shoes are usually 11. I just measured again, and I come up with mondo 28 for the left foot and between 27 and 27.5 for the right. I guess that would make me mondo28. I will DEFINITELY get in touch with you if I go to Sugarloaf. I was actually planning on going there this winter, hopefully in the last week of February or so. I will let you know.

Keep me in the loop if any of you find a deal, I'm tight right now, but after the holidays might be a bit better, so I'd be open to options then! As for courses, I think when I go to Sugarloaf I might take courses. I found out that Eric Beckman teaches hardbooting there. Might be an option...either that, or any experienced hardbooter willing to pass on the tradition!

Ebay.de,the de stands for Deutscheland which is Germany,and this is my shopping area where i bought lots of stuff but i don't know if buying from there is for you because of the ridiculous high prices for shipping AND I THINK YOU WILL ALSO HAVE CUSTOM FEES to pay,i bought a bord from there and the shipping cost to Greece which is not even 2 hours by plane cost me 70 euros which is close to u.s100$ ,i wanted to buy another board a oxygen proton 172 gs 2 days ago and the seller didn't ship outside Germany so i contacted UPS to pic it up and send it to me and they told me that it would cost me 90 euros=130$ ,the board was sold for 41 euros and if i would have won it and payed the shipping that would make the total amount 130 euros = 180 U.S$ for a 10 year old proton is way too much,i think you can find much better and cheaper stuff here in the classified section.

Posted

Hi!

Most important rule when you need to decide on something, fast:

Do not ask a question on Bomber! You'll get so many opinions that your had will spin... :D ;)

Now jokes aside... That would be an ok starting setup for you, you are a big guy, Blasts are beefy boards, F2s are nice bindings all good, if he'll really ship for E30. Let's assume you get it for less then $200, it's a deal. Anything over, I would start looking localy.

You can also post a WTB thread in classifieds here and see what offers you'd get. Most important part is to know your boot MONDO size (length in cm). That could dictate the board width you need to use without riding too high angles.

Width, SCR and stiffness are probably more important factors then length, when it comes to the board. Anything between 165 and 180 would do you good, lengthwise. However, I wouldn't go with too long of the SCR.

Have fun shopping.

Posted

great, once again thanks for the info. Since I already have a board at home and am mostly looking for bindings and boots rather than a second board, I suppose i'll pass on that one. I'll look up my board when i get home and let you guys know what it is exactly I bought 3 years ago. Then you can tell me if it's appropriate or not...

Posted

Can anyone give me more info on thermo flex liners? I've read that they can usually be remolded up to 6 times. Is it ok to buy used ones? Has anyone had good/bad experiences with used ones?

On another note, I've found out about Erik Beckman as the closest hardbooting instructor to where I live. People seem to have him in high regards (The Erik, Madd Erik.....). Can anyone tell me anything about him? Is he any good? And how good is he to teach someone from scratch when it comes to hardbooting? I assume he's the one i'd have to go do, so I'm curious...

Posted
Can anyone give me more info on thermo flex liners? I've read that they can usually be remolded up to 6 times. Is it ok to buy used ones? Has anyone had good/bad experiences with used ones?

I've remolded my old gray Thermoflex liners at least 6 or 7 times and they mold just fine each time. I wouldn't hesitate to buy used ones that have only been molded a couple times. The old gray ones are like the new red ones. The black ones in between were different and thinner, I assume they would not take as many moldings, but maybe.

On another note, I've found out about Erik Beckman as the closest hardbooting instructor to where I live. People seem to have him in high regards (The Erik, Madd Erik.....). Can anyone tell me anything about him? Is he any good? And how good is he to teach someone from scratch when it comes to hardbooting? I assume he's the one i'd have to go do, so I'm curious...

Just go book a lesson with him. You can thank us later. By the way, he posted in this thread. #7.

Posted

Great, thanks Jack. I remember you had mentioned something about getting used liners separate from the boots. Wouldn't used boots have their own liners in them if I'd buy them? Unless the previous owner likes his broken-in old liners and keep them and sell only the shell? Is this some kind of unwritten rule that used boots come without liners unless stated otherwise? Please someone clarify this for me. And I suppose there's as many opinions as there are people out there, but what are the bindings and boots that seem to come out on top, most of the time?

Boot wise, as far as deeluxe goes, I think i'd need at least 325 for stiffness, maybe even 700, given my weight. Any opinions?

Maybe at some point I'll stop asking questions, but today is not the day...

By the way, thanks for the offer Erik, I'll definitely get in touch with you in advance. In the meantime, I'll try working on "the norm" and carving with the downhill edge...

Posted
Great, thanks Jack. I remember you had mentioned something about getting used liners separate from the boots. Wouldn't used boots have their own liners in them if I'd buy them?

Sometimes yes, sometimes no.

Unless the previous owner likes his broken-in old liners and keep them and sell only the shell?

That definitely happens. Besides... you really want sloppy seconds on a stranger's foot funk?

Is this some kind of unwritten rule that used boots come without liners unless stated otherwise?

No.

Please someone clarify this for me. And I suppose there's as many opinions as there are people out there, but what are the bindings and boots that seem to come out on top, most of the time?

Bindings = Bomber, Catek, SnowPro, F2, Phiokka, Burton (aka Ibex, aka CarveCompany) although I don't recommend the Burton variants for heavy dudes. Boots = Deeluxe, Head, UPZ.

Boot wise, as far as deeluxe goes, I think i'd need at least 325 for stiffness, maybe even 700, given my weight. Any opinions?

The 700s are not that stiff, especially with BTS installed.

Posted

wow, thanks for the detailed information Jack. Very educational. I also read the thread from the guy in Kazakstan, learned a few things from there as well. I have another question. What are those disks everyone talk about? 3 degrees, 6 degrees, etc... I really AM clueless...

Posted

I believe you are speaking of the cant disks, basically imagine a shim that you wedge under the binding. If it is wedged under your toe, you get all toe lift and no inward or outward lean of your foot (cant). Rotate the disk under your heel and you get heel lift, etc.. If you dig around on the Bomber site there is a lot of info on all of this. I read all about it on there and they also have an Excel spreadsheet that shows the degrees of cant depending on how it is rotated. The 0, 3, and 6 are the degrees but they are different disks.

http://www.bomberonline.com/articles/tech_articles.cfm

Posted

Thanks for the disk info, and sorry for asking questions about info I could have found on the site. For a softbooter trying alpine board for the first time, what would you people recommend? A disk, no disk? A cant, or heel or toe lift? I assume that's a personal preference, but is there a choice that is best for beginners?

I have other questions. A lot of people speak of rockered, fully rockered and decambered. What does those terms mean?

Posted

We don't mind answering these questions but you can get more in-depth answers but researching on the internet.

Camber and rocker are referring to the unweighted flex of the board in relation to the ground. It also applies to ice skates, canoes, etc.. If you lay the board on the ground, the part that is off of the ground has camber, the part that is touching the ground is flat, and the part that is off of the ground has rocker. If you look goalie skates, they are mostly flat, if you look at forwards skates, they have rocker to help turn. Same with lake canoes and rapids canoes, the lake ones are mostly flat whereas the rapid canoes have rocker at both tips. Some snowboards will have a rockered nose, which isn't just where the nose turns up, it is the part in front of the flat spot where the camber ends but before the nose turns up. There is much more info out there. Just go to your local shop and look down all of the edges on the boards and you will see all of the new profiles out there.

In regards to the cants, I just started hardbooting for the first time ever, been boarding for 20 years, and I just went with what the Carvers Almanac said many people use. A toe lift on the front foot and heel lift on the back foot with some inward cant (knees leaned in toward each other). So when I got the TD2 bindings they had 3 degree cants.

Read everything in this site, http://www.alpinecarving.com/ .

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