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Posted

Your going to hurt someone ,it's dangerous. I wouldn't let that on my hill, those screws are too short ,those screws are too long That plate is too long, it's too short. It's to stiff it's too flexable. These are all things that could be said but i say, Check for loose parts, have fun, play safe , let us all know how it works for you. Careful with the silly smile when you find out what the rest of us already know. plates work! Good job.

Posted

To really comment we would need to see more detail of the mechanical connection between snowboard, hinges and plate. Also some more detail about plate construction.

The biggest problems in any design are

1/ firmly attaching plate to mechanicals, and mechanicals to board and dealing with the twisting forces that occur with each turn.

2/ constructing an accurate slide component that has sufficient motion allowed for (5-8mm). As interaxle distance increases then the distance needed increases.

3/ dealing with the wear created by the hinge and slide movements that occur with each turn.

Lowrider, BlueB and I have all made functioning, home made, isocline plate systems and enjoyed the benefits.

I look forward to seeing more detailed information about your design.

SunSurfer

Posted

Thanks for yor comments i want know more if you dont have problems whit that i am beginner for making plates like you see all.My plate is made of 10 mm aluminum between the snowboard and the 12 mm spacing carrier screws M8 on this screws i have rollig stainless steel sliders all looks very stable but i have 105 kg and that know be a problem i will paste more photos tomorrow.

post-9885-141842326651_thumb.jpg

Posted

From the photos it looks like the brackets on the bottom of the aluminium plate are welded on. Am I correct?

Looks solidly put together. Watch out for wear on the aluminium where the steel bolts rub.

You seem to have your binding centres directly over the axles of your system.

The photos of the Canadian team showed both front and rear bindings were several centimetres inside the plate axles.

I set up my plate with a 50cm stance and the 61.5cm interaxle distance on the UPM insert system. Bindings were equidistant from plate centre and axles were equidistant from board effective edge centre.

Comments from Fin in another thread suggests possibly better board/plate performance with greater interaxle distances.

SunSurfer

PS: Happy to send you a copy of my plate design construction method as a .pdf file if you're interested.

e-mail me at the address below

aj dot mckenzie at clear dot net dot nz

##.########@#####.###.##

Posted

looks nice. Maybe a bit heavy. You will see how the extra weight effect your riding, it is not all good. I have tried gerab (3kg) plates an i must say, plates are good for competitions, but for normal user, they are useless if they are too heavy.

P.s: s kje v sloveniji pa si drgač?

Posted

looks nice. Maybe a bit heavy. You will see how the extra weight effect your riding, it is not all good. I have tried gerab (3kg) plates an i must say, plates are good for competitions, but for normal user, they are useless if they are too heavy.

P.s: s kje v sloveniji pa si drgač?

Posted

Yeah, weight is not your friend, except maybe for racing... My plate system is 2.1kg and still working to make it a bit lighter...

Posted

That's the weight of the plate and moutning hardware. No point including bindings, as they really vary from model to model...

Posted

My only concern is the plate that connects to the board. With that much metal, I wonder if it would delaminate the board because it can't flex properly. i'd try some UHWPE (Ultra High Molecular Weight Polyeurethane) it would allow the board to flex more naturally. I made a set of spacers out of it so my bindings wouldn't break the metal on my board, and it has worked great.

http://www.tapplastics.com/shop/product.php?pid=528&PHPSESSID=20101204143614495259045

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