Jump to content

Rotobrushes


nekdut
 Share

Recommended Posts

Guest Randy S.

I bought one last season and I love it. It saves me tons of time in the evening when I'm waxing boards. One tip I picked up this summer. Brushing can put static electricity into your base. Prevent this by squirting a little water on the base before brushing. I use a variable speed cordless drill at low speed to run it.

Someone here emailed me asking what brush I bought and where. I got it from Tognar and it is model TOK-2549. You can find it Here. You'll need the handle also (on same page). I also noticed that either Race Place or Race Werks (both catalogs arrived this week) carry them.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hey Randy,

Are you using it with a cordless drill? I noticed that most cordless drills top out at 1000-1500 rpm., but its recommended to rotobrush at 2500rpm. Do you only use the rotobrush to do the final brushing, after hotwaxing and scraping? Have you tried using it for corking/fibertexing?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Guest Randy S.
Originally posted by nekdut

Hey Randy,

Are you using it with a cordless drill? I noticed that most cordless drills top out at 1000-1500 rpm., but its recommended to rotobrush at 2500rpm. Do you only use the rotobrush to do the final brushing, after hotwaxing and scraping? Have you tried using it for corking/fibertexing?

I don't understand that rpm suggestion really. Can you make your hand brush go that fast? I dont' think so. That said, I did buy the most powerful cordless I could find (big honking dewalt thingy). I don't run it at full speed, but maybe I should. I only have the one brush now, so I mostly use it for final polishing after scraping. It brushes the wax out so I get down to the structure. I haven't gotten a cork for it and fibertex seems like overkill to me. I like the KISS principle for waxing. That's why I got the roto, to make it faster and easier.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

On the World Cup I used only a fine antistatic horsehair brush designed by Toko.

This was only used after I had hand brushed out all of the wax with a bronze/horsehair oval brush, combined with frequent light scrapes of the "lifted" wax.

Hand brushing allows for better "lifting" of the wax from pronounced structures. This is extremely important from a "speed" standpoint when attaining speeds of 60-80 mph is important.

Rotobrushes employed with high rpm combined with too much pressure will only "redeposit" the wax you're trying to remove.

However, unless your actually getting out there with victory in mind, it will not adversely effect your performance.

The idea is to remove enough wax so it does not mute the performance from edge to edge.

Roto's used with light pressure and moderate rpm, should do a satisfactory job of removing wax from your base structure. Use a brass/horsehair initially, then follow up with a horshair. If that's too many brushes, simply use a stiff nylon, which allows for good removal and finish of your wax job.

Whatever method one chooses, the goal is too remove any wax that one can see standing on the base, as that is what will ultimately effect your performance with regards to the wax process.

Skidoc

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 10 years later...

We use a snowboard width rotobrush on the hill for final pre-race prep for my high school race team. Works much better than ski width brushes. Works great after corking in the top wax layer, heats the base a bit and blends the waxes really well. Also quite a bit faster than trying to hand brush 12-15 boards right before race start. I typically encourage hand brushing when in the weekly wax room session just so the kids learn the proper waxing techniques, but if we have a lot of boards to do the night before a race we will use the rotobrush as well.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I use a wide roto Nylon brush with a makita cordless...and it saves my life every autumn when I'm getting all the gear ready

8 pairs of skiis ( kids and wife) and 6 snowboards at least..

Used to took ages by hand, now I get a pretty good job with the roto. As said it is not a good for fine tuned structuring compare to the hand, but for normal use ( EC, freeride) its great!

 

Nils

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

 Share



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...