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2010 Deeluxe Track 700T


Michael Pukas

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Spent the weekend on the above boots which I call the junk bin boots - black, white and red plastics - looks like they picked through the left-over bins from years past and threw together whatever they had.

I put on my own BTS w/ blue-blue springs and put in my own liners and foot beds so I could compare just the shells. I'm 6', 210 with no gear on, and ride fairly aggressively. Binding were TD3 SW's w/ blue e-rings and blue e-pads. Board was Donek 185 Metal FC.

Big improvement over the all-white '09's that I have. They're about 20-25% stiffer, and that makes a big difference. More supportive and more responsive. My white ones feel soft and collapse when I push them too hard. The '10's I can lean into and feel the response in the board on the snow - better edge hold with with more feedback. More energy goes to the board rather than being dissipated into space through the plastic flexing.

As I mentioned in another thread, the ankle strap fits much better. The 3rd notch in these boots '10's is tighter than the 5th notch on my '09's. Maybe it's the length of the strap, maybe it's the volume of the shell, I'm not sure.

Another nice feature is there is a power strap that is held in by (2) screws that go through the top of the cuff and spoiler, holding it in place instead of just flopping around. The stick strap is nice, but not as good as a booster strap. I think the stock strap should be of a thicker material and wider, much wider.

I'm still not a huge fan of Raichle/Deeluxe boots - never have been, but this new model almost makes me really like them. If you like Raichle/Deeluxe boots and prefer a stiffer boot, this is a great boot. If you prefer a softer boot, the '09's may be more to your liking. I'd like to get a set of these '10's for carving hard pack with long boards and put yellow BTS springs on my white '09's for free riding and powder with softer boards.

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You say you are not a huge Raichle / Deeluxe fan. What are your "go to" boots?

My go to boots are the '09 700T's - they are all I have now. Well, I still have an old pair of Burton Fire's, but I don't trust them to ride now as they are old and have some cracks in the plastic.

I really liked the Fire - I think it rides better than the 700T (which was originally the AF design 10 years ago) deisgn, and far better than the SB design. I tried the SB, and couldn't get them to fit my feet, and didn't like the way they rode. Why, I can't really explain, it's been so long now. I did take out my Fire's for a few days last year when I got back into carving after a 6 year layoff, and I felt like I was ripping it up after a couple days. When I got the '09 700T's I felt really tentative and it took me a long time to get used to them. Now I ride them just fine.

My bigegst beef with the Raichle boots is they rely on the tongue of the boot for it's main source of pressure-resistence. The upper cuff wraps over the tongue and sort of slides over the tongue and the boot is flexed. Less so in the AF design than the SB design {and the UPZ are pretty much the same thing}. This is all really just evolutions of the Flexon Comp. The Fire design was more like a ski race boot that has a wrap shell design, and the whole upper boot flexes together (I've ranted about this on this forum 10+ years ago).

But what do I know - I'm just blowing smoke! Seth Morrison now has a new signature ski boot based on the Flexon, and Dalbello has the Krypton, which Glen Plake skis and endorses, and some world cup snowboard racers ride.

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  • 1 month later...

I'm not HB expert but have to say I tried old Head's and wasn't any happy about it, Indy was way to stiff for me so I got myself new Deeluxe 225T, its soft, good for a girl but I see now that might be a bit to soft by the end of the season or next one and that design needs some improvement, oh yes. The liners are not the best design at all, I can feel it on my bone if I go low on legs. Doesn't give me any pain but still... I think Deeluxe have a bit of work to do.

my 5 cents

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  • 1 month later...

has anyone on bol, gone from the 09 white track 700's into the new 2010 track 700's?

are they stiffer like they are advertised to be?

if you respond, please tell me your weight.

hopefully they are stiffer than the 08's. im running them with the race tongues, rab system, and intuitions power wrap liners.

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I have demoed the '10's and can attest that they are stiffer than the '09's. Many others agree. I weigh about 205. Don't know what the '08's were - same as the '09's?

08 and 09 are the same white tracks. No difference. The 10's are somewhat stiffer. But if you have a stiff liner in it, I found it not that a big difference in stiffness on the dry carpet. I still have to ride the 10's in the snow. I weigh 195 lbs and ride them with Strolz foamed injected liners and BTS yellow.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Rode them yesterday in the snowhall at Landgraaf (620 metres) to test my right knee which had two OP's this winter, the red/white 09/10 model with Boosterstrap and yellow BTS. Gives more support. My right shin (back foot/leg) had some problems after a 3 hours ride due to the tougher/stiffer set up. Luckily my knee could stand it. The hold in the carve is somewhat more resistant and you get more feedback in your boots which I have to get used to for a few runs.

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  • 7 months later...

I got the 10/11 Track 700's, definitely stiffer shell plastic than my 07/08's (white ones).

The main reason I bought a new pair was that in warm weather my old ones would bulge out at the sides, badly, and after some time they seemed to fatigue to a point where they were doing this even in cold weather, resulting in massive heel lift. Plus the old liners were packed out and remolding was not helping. I like the stiffer version better, as they seem to hinge at the joint nicely but not flex sideways nor bulge so much. We'll see if that's still true after a full season.

The liners... seem to need to be heated to about 260F to mold nicely, and the heel cup on the inside comes too low on the outside to use with some orthortics; we worked around this by pulling up hard on the outside of the liner during molding. If you look at the liners from the bottom they look off-center but they feel fine.

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  • 1 year later...
  • 1 year later...

Has anyone tried punching out the outboard side of the heels on 700's to create a trough for a step-in heel cable?

I've been getting along fine with padding around the cable for a couple of years, but just recently it has started to really bother the side of my heel (back foot - which gets more abuse when kicking the tail around for hockey stops and such). The painful spot is at the hard bump about 3/4" above the sole, straight down from the main ankle bone projection (whatever it's called), too close to the shell footbed to really route the cable away from it without too sharp a bend.

The shell looks pretty thin in the area, judging from light transmission and considerably thicker further aft. I'm thinking of making a paddle shaped to form the recess that I can pre-position inside the boot with some preload against the shell, and apply an insulation mask (maybe aluminum foil/ceramic plumber's soldering fireshield) to the exterior leaving a gap where I want the recess, opposite the paddle former. Then, carefully apply heat with a heat gun, watch for the deformation to occur, and quench it quickly with a wet rag to keep any degradation of the plastic as localized as possible.

I'd appreciate any guidance from anyone with some experience with these boots. My other recourse would be to abandon the step-ins, but converting two sets of TD3s to standard would cost at least $272 and I may have overlooked a few parts. Plus, I'd have to start eating lighter meals...

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That seems to have worked out pretty well. I took off the heel and used a bent piece of 1/4" steel rod as a forming tool. I made a sharp bend about 1/2" from the end then a gradual bend the other way and then a recurve so the two ends were about colinear. I stuck the short end into the cable hole in the sole and manipulated the other end to lever the curved part against the side of the shell right above the hole. 5 minutes of moderate heat gun (giving the heat time to flow through the shell rather than just charring the surface quickly) and it was soft enough to form. The resulting chanel isn't as distinct as I was hoping for, but it seems to be deep enough to house the cable and with stiff foam padding stuck on both sides of the cable to fill the channel it looks like it's going to work pretty well. 5 days of riding next week should be a good verification test.

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