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Small SCR Carving


scrapster

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Anyone have a video of someone carving (well) on a near or sub 10m scr board? As I'm trying to get the hang of my SL stick, I'm having a mental block that someone can carve something this small at speed without some degree of skidding. I know you can (so many people on Bomber love their AM and SL boards) but it would be great to have visual proof of what I'm aiming for. Thnx!

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For what it's worth, here is some video we shot last April, I'm in the orange jacket riding a 4WD (10.5 SCR).

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iG8ckiV9pl8&fmt=18

I enjoyed riding the 9m SCR Pogo Hardcore, very fun esp when the resort is full of holiday visitors, but no video of it.

And all the Pureboarding videos feature riders on 9 - 9.5m SCR boards:

http://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=pureboarding&search_type=&aq=f

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turn! turn! turn! turn! turn! turn! turn! turn...... :biggthump

Don't let the speed get too high at first, just keep turning. You will learn to handle more speed on it with time. I just got this SL from Bruce and am loving it: 165 x 20 with 9/11/10m, 20mm taper. And you don't need to stick to crossunders. :rolleyes:

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In any days riding, it always seems easier to go from a small scr to a large scr board. I think you get used to the higher speeds on a bigger board, and the slalom boards don't like to make GS turns at speed. If you do end up on a slalom board after riding a on a GS stick, you have to keep thinking, go slower, turn tighter, until you have it dialed in.

BobD

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Anyone have a video of someone carving (well) on a near or sub 10m scr board? As I'm trying to get the hang of my SL stick, I'm having a mental block that someone can carve something this small at speed without some degree of skidding. I know you can (so many people on Bomber love their AM and SL boards) but it would be great to have visual proof of what I'm aiming for. Thnx!

Maybe this will help:

Bend rear knee into forward knee.

Chq this guy hind knee. Its face side of his deck instead forward and when he bend his knee he push deck tail into the direction his knee was facing.

Good luck,

Roy

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Bend rear knee into forward knee.

Lets please not go there.

It is just a smaller, tighter turning board. The proper technique is not fundamentally different from a bigger board. Proper technique is more important however, because it will have a smaller sweet spot and be more sensitive to being out of position than a GS board. It will let you know.

I think you are a lightweight scrapster? Some smaller boards are too stiff for a lighter rider to bend. I had a Donek 163 FC that would buck me off all over the place. I also got to test the Coiler Angrry prototype at the end of last season. Fun board, but too stiff and I could ride it well for a while, but it would always skip out from under me eventually. Especially on firmer snow. At 145 pounds, I have moved entirely to boards built for my weight.

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Buell-your new Coiler sounds just about perfect!

I weigh in at around 145 to 150lbs. My little Generics SL (via BlueB) seems pretty forgiving--supposedly along the lines of a Burton FP with more even flex and a stronger nose. 162, 20w, 9.5scr I'm having a blast with it. It does like to turn and carve, but I find I get sloppy when my speed or the grade of the slope changes.

I noticed two things in the posted videos: 1.) Some of the riders are keeping to very shallow, fall line turns. 2.) Some others are doing a hard, tight carve and then letting the board run across the hill a bit before doing it again.

Right now, I'm hooking up well (almost too well) on heelsides, and sliding in or out of the toes--but I'm working on it. Its just good to see some examples of other riders and their approach, technique, rhythm, etc.

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Damn, I know I'm doing something wrong, I end up going to fast and not being aggressive enough on the turns.

Is it my fault I enjoy speed? mix that with a SCR9.3 and I'm afraid of letting it bite... (already got the air blown out of me getting slamed into the board on a too fast too tight turn)

time for some on slope critique...

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Look up kasperkarver on youtube and vimeo - he's generally on small scr boards. He's a total rock star when it comes to switch carving, and his heelsides aren't too shabby either! :)

I remember the shots of him EC'ing the 163 WCRM he had for sale last spring. Very nice! I wonder if he still has that board around? :1luvu:

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For god sakes Mark!

You will ride the Volkl 168gs this weekend and everything will be just fine!

How many times must I tell you this!:rolleyes:

Bring your spare bindings.:biggthump

Wow, I've never had someone want me to ride their board this much ;) Looking forward taming the kitty this weekend :biggthump

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Maybe this will help:

Bend rear knee into forward knee.

Lets please not go there.

Buell,

I think what Scooby is trying to say, without explaining it properly, is to drive the knees into the direction of travel. I know for shure that he's not trying to sparkle the old "knees together" debate, as he doesn't ride like that and never had tutoring in that fashion.

Bro,

Thanks for using my clips for this purpose, but they are not the best instructional videos - the form is quite poor and "wild", more focusing on pushing test board to it's limit and fighting unnaturally narrow stance...

The only usefull part in that vid is that I ride some tight and some long-drawn carves on the same run/board.

Mark,

I would say that a well performed cross-under would perform the tightest turn and locking the upper boddy to the fall line would probably result in unfinished arcs. Great for pumping the flats or tight SL turns.

Dynamic cross-trough, or over, would do tight turn, depending of how much power and steering you put into it.

To draw a longer arc on tight scr board, easiest (for me) is to go for lazy cross-over, without pushing the board into decamber much and without rushing to get high edge angle. Just roll it gently on the edge and modulate angle of attack through the turn, while concentrating on pressure, weight distribution and ballance, to keep the edge hold while picking the speed. The arcs would be much bigger. With a bit of practice, you'll find that you can actually "fight" a bit the boards tendency to decamber and steer it slightly lower then it wants to go. Of course, there is a limit to what can be done and at some stage the board would start skipping the track.

On the side note, if the snow is good, don't angulate at all, just lean in and ride the "roller-coaster".

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Personally, I ride mainly a Hot Blast 160SL - it's a fairly "lively" ride (I had a comment yesterday from another boarder along the lines of "you get more air riding a blue run than I do in the snowpark") You really need to be on top of your game with small radius boards, or at least the ones I've ridden - forget "EC" style laid-out turns unless you're 3 feet tall, you simply don't have the time.

The main problem people seem to have with riding SL boards, or at least the people I know, is that if you ride hard and fast, you're gonna launch on every edge change. This is fun, but as you pull your carves further from the fall line it gets harder to get the landing right every time, especially on non-hero snow or steeper slopes - this, I suspect, is why a lot of footage of SL riding you'll see either involves carve-traverse-carve; the traverse taking the place of the "launch" in a hard-ridden board's "natural" carve-launch-carve cycle, or more "mellow" carving close to the fall line.

You've gotta be quick to be fast.

As BlueB says, you can fight the board and pull longer, wider-radius carves, but it takes practice to stop it "skarving".

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