Guest Comrade Posted September 25, 2004 Report Share Posted September 25, 2004 I just got my 2005 Volkl RT 173 in the mail and I was wondering what angles I should use on the edges. I used to have a 168 RT and I used 3 degrees on the sides and 1 one the base. When I used that setup, I felt like I never got the sharpness I usually get. I know that statement is rather ambiguous, but you know what I mean. I wanted the type of edges that felt like a knife edge, and I just didn't get it. Anyway, I have the tools to do 1-3 on the sides and I have stuff to do 1 on the base, but I wouldn't be opposed to spending a bit more money to get the performance I want. Thanks in advance, Eric PS What are the stock angles? PSS That board is probably the best looking board Volkl has produced in a long time (I have owned a 02, 03, 04, and now a 05.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest OCD Posted September 25, 2004 Report Share Posted September 25, 2004 Did you check the base to see if it was flat? Convex or concave issues will affect the edge you want to put on. I have a board right now which is pretty concave and I'm debating as what to do...too much material to loose of I want it 100% flat>just curious. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Slim Posted September 25, 2004 Report Share Posted September 25, 2004 Maybe it's just all that sweet Utah powder! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kamran Posted September 25, 2004 Report Share Posted September 25, 2004 I was wondering, is '05 Renntiger the same board as the previous year with a diffferent top sheet, or did they change the specifications as well? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Randy S. Posted September 26, 2004 Report Share Posted September 26, 2004 Why don't you start with one/one or one/two and see what you like. Remember that its easier to go bigger than smaller on the sides. And as someone pointed out, its Utah man. The only time you get real ice is if they inject your course (which they never do for snowboard courses). Get them nice and smooth and they'll be fast, regardless of angle. Burrs and you'll be slow. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest rick ferguson Posted September 26, 2004 Report Share Posted September 26, 2004 I've got my own thought's on the matter, I'm not a racer, but I do ride hard and tend to go fast. I don't think that having a perfectly flat base is that HUGE of a deal since unless it applies to a flat runnout to the finish line, your not riding on a true surface, like a ice skating rink that get's buffed out, you are very rarely flat for very long, constant rail to rail transfer's with different arc's and wieght transfer's. Having a flat bottom may be top's, but so many rider's I know get fanatic about the base. A example is buying a new board, and without riding it first, scraping it perfectly level. I say ride it and when it comes time to do a tune, then use that oppertunity to true it up. I'm a surfboard designer and shaper, I have seen boards come in that people want copied and the bottom's are beat to hell and off by a 1/4 or more in area's that were "flat/level" On edging, I like to keep them sharp but only edge them to how they were when I bought it. I look at it like this, the edge gives ya bite and hold, but look at how much of your board sinks in a trench. Your edge only breaks the top 1/16" of the snow, your rail burries in and holds you for more than 1" Why take off metal that you can't put back if it's not so needed. Again in racing, I think that it may play a bit more to the top end racer's who have thier form so disiplined that they can notice the change. I think boards would have a longer life if people ground less and worked harder on thier style/form/ability and less on micro tech of the boards. If your riding flat, your not carving. Good luck to all of you who are racing this year.:) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest rick ferguson Posted September 26, 2004 Report Share Posted September 26, 2004 I'll Agree with you on that , I ride kirkwood , ca and it rarely if ever get's the ice pack as the east coast. This was based on looking at the trench depth of the majority of carver's in the tahoe arena. The snow /cord here is very soft, I only did edge work on 1 board and rode 3-4 all season for a total of 28 day's (4-41/2 hrs. from the snow) and had no problems with slipping or poor edge hold, only my ability failed me from time to time. As far as putting texture on the base or taking out scratches, I just fill'em with wax! Does my board run a bit slower than those with a super tech base? Maybe, but I'm still blowing past the majority of them now and as long as I still have to check my speed , it's plenty fast enough. 35mph or 37.999mph! at that point , unless I'm racing it's good enough. I have a theory that most of the tech junkies are riding on borderline performance run's anyway's and contribute the lack of speed and performance to the board, same board , steeper run! And they now are going twice as fast with a pitch to support laying it over. No joke, some are trying to go EC style on the beginner green run's next to the tow rope for kiddies. And they wonder why the board stick's or grabs and they go nut's de-burring edges 1/3 in either direction , then later wonder why they blow out on the firmer, steeper runs. I guess there are tech warrior's in every sport, just wish they spent the time looking at themself's and not the tool. I've seen a guy on a plastic blacksnow and rip down a black run with style, no metal edges at all. How he got the board on the mtn. beats me, but he did and tore it up. lesson learned and point taken, after that I chose to blame my riding and not the board.-rick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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