bobdea Posted February 12, 2009 Report Share Posted February 12, 2009 Well the inserts that I got, have ptex on them already. But The shop guy was saying it wont accept wax. What if I use the insert to trace out a plug from actual base material then glue the plug right onto the insert, put the insert in with epoxy, then just tap the whole thing till its level, then flame seal it? don't bother I have seen people win races on boards with only epoxy over holes NOT optimum or will you see it on world cups or anything but considering you're on a UP you're not at that level. that material is extruded, will be as fast as weld anyway. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DiveBomber Posted February 12, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2009 any suggestion on what epoxy to use? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobdea Posted February 12, 2009 Report Share Posted February 12, 2009 there's a thread here where Bruce V says west systems I use marine epoxy for repairs I like ones that take awhile to set as you have more time to work with them and they seem to hold together better. the last stuff I used set in 2 hours and was full strength in 24 assuming your house is warm longer times for colder conditions the other thing about marine epoxy is it can set under water! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
martyagt4 Posted February 12, 2009 Report Share Posted February 12, 2009 I like 3M Hysol. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jp1 Posted February 14, 2009 Report Share Posted February 14, 2009 Have to agree with lowrider. In the world of risers and plates, why not just fabricate an adapter plate? Something like a 3/16" - 1/4" thick aluminum (carbon fiber would be sweet if you had the means) plate drilled and countersunk holes to screw to existing insert pattern and another set of holes drilled and tapped (offset the amount you need) to screw the bindings to. If need be, you could drill & tap a bunch of holes in it for adjustability. You could also drill/mill it out (swiss cheese style) to lighten it up and make it less rigid. It would be a fun little project to try, and would eliminate drilling thru the board ! I plan to do something similar in the off season, but with a top and a bottom plate joined together with rubber isolators to try as a suspension system, but first I need to learn to ride :D. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DiveBomber Posted February 15, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 15, 2009 Have to agree with lowrider. In the world of risers and plates, why not just fabricate an adapter plate? Something like a 3/16" - 1/4" thick aluminum (carbon fiber would be sweet if you had the means) plate drilled and countersunk holes to screw to existing insert pattern and another set of holes drilled and tapped (offset the amount you need) to screw the bindings to. If need be, you could drill & tap a bunch of holes in it for adjustability. You could also drill/mill it out (swiss cheese style) to lighten it up and make it less rigid. It would be a fun little project to try, and would eliminate drilling thru the board ! I plan to do something similar in the off season, but with a top and a bottom plate joined together with rubber isolators to try as a suspension system, but first I need to learn to ride :D. Yeah, um NO, thats a bad idea, unless you use and actual suspension system, a plate thick enough would ruin the flex. and would be much better than just helicoiling it. Already put 2 inserts in the front, went smooth, on the top it looks factory the unsers I put in had Ptex caps on them, had a feather grind, including inserts for $20 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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