shredliner Posted January 30, 2009 Report Share Posted January 30, 2009 Ok, just when you think you have a clue, you realize how clueless you really were. I have been tuning my edges ALL wrong, for awhile. Started reading here in-depth, a lot of the various tuning articles. Have since purchased all the tools, stones and so forth I need, to do it right. However, prior to this, I was using an edge filer, every time to "get the edges sharp". I was also, pulling on the filer (fixed tool) fairly aggressively. Probably put the wrong angles on too, now that I finally understand what's what. For all I know, I might have put 2 on the base, 1 on the edge. Duh. So, my question is, how do I NOW ensure my base/edge angles are correct? I'm thinking 1/2 (base/edge). How do I undo any "damage" I might have done, previously? I like doing stuff myself............just hate the painful learning process sometimes! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D.T. Posted January 30, 2009 Report Share Posted January 30, 2009 If you have enough edge and base material left, take the board to a reputable shop. Have them base grind the board - this will take the base edge back to 0*. Have them put a 1* grind on the side edge. Take the board home and hand tune it to 1*/2*. If you don't have enough edge/base left, you are SOL. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shredliner Posted January 30, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2009 If you have enough edge and base material left, take the board to a reputable shop. Have them base grind the board - this will take the base edge back to 0*. Have them put a 1* grind on the side edge. Take the board home and hand tune it to 1*/2*.If you don't have enough edge/base left, you are SOL. Ok, that's what I was thinking. Will do that either in Tahoe soon or wait till Copper in April. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr_roboteye Posted January 30, 2009 Report Share Posted January 30, 2009 Once your base is ground and the edge angles are set by the tuning shop, you shouldn't need to touch your base bevel angle. Any touchups can be done simply by using a file guide with a diamond stone in it on your side edge. Any big rock hits on your edge you can use a file, but just to take off the high spots. Diamond stones are great because they aren't terribly aggressive like a file taking off side edge every time. When I lived in Whistler I would diamond stone a board maybe 50 times a season. It would always be sharp, and still had tons of edge left. I just used a KUU 88 degree icebuster with a diamond stone in it. It doesn't hurt to put some base protector tape, or masking tape on your base to protect it from the file guide. Don't hand stone it, always use your file guide when tuning for consistency. hope this helps, later, Dave R. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shredliner Posted January 30, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2009 Once your base is ground and the edge angles are set by the tuning shop, you shouldn't need to touch your base bevel angle. Any touchups can be done simply by using a file guide with a diamond stone in it on your side edge. Any big rock hits on your edge you can use a file, but just to take off the high spots. Diamond stones are great because they aren't terribly aggressive like a file taking off side edge every time.When I lived in Whistler I would diamond stone a board maybe 50 times a season. It would always be sharp, and still had tons of edge left. I just used a KUU 88 degree icebuster with a diamond stone in it. It doesn't hurt to put some base protector tape, or masking tape on your base to protect it from the file guide. Don't hand stone it, always use your file guide when tuning for consistency. hope this helps, later, Dave R. Helps a lot! I'm definitely getting it stone ground then. I have some diamond stones and now a new ceramic, some I am ready! Now, I need to locate a good shop in N. Tahoe to get it ground when I'm out there. Any ideas there? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
John Gilmour Posted January 31, 2009 Report Share Posted January 31, 2009 Once your base is ground and the edge angles are set by the tuning shop, you shouldn't need to touch your base bevel angle. Any touchups can be done simply by using a file guide with a diamond stone in it on your side edge. Any big rock hits on your edge you can use a file, but just to take off the high spots. Diamond stones are great because they aren't terribly aggressive like a file taking off side edge every time.When I lived in Whistler I would diamond stone a board maybe 50 times a season. It would always be sharp, and still had tons of edge left. I just used a KUU 88 degree icebuster with a diamond stone in it. It doesn't hurt to put some base protector tape, or masking tape on your base to protect it from the file guide. Don't hand stone it, always use your file guide when tuning for consistency. hope this helps, later, Dave R. spot on advice... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave ESPI Posted January 31, 2009 Report Share Posted January 31, 2009 90 degrees, and use a diamond hand stone to remove the burrs.... It's all I've ever used other than having my edges done by a pro shop twice a year to fix the mashed edges and rolled lips after heavy ice and boilerplate sessions where I had to do a lot of board sliding due to "ill traffic" with other people around me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.