BryanZ Posted January 29, 2009 Report Share Posted January 29, 2009 I cannot piece together which types of boots go with which bindings this is my first setup, and I am basically looking for the cheapest stuff possible, well atleast for the bindings I know my boot size is a 29.5 cm I see a lot of different stuff for sale, and I'm sitting here scratching my head about what types of bindings I need. I saw nothing in the FAQ's to assist me. Someone please take me to boot/binding school! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KingCrimson Posted January 29, 2009 Report Share Posted January 29, 2009 You're big and you want to haul ass, right? Anything by Bomber is bomb proof. Never been on the newer bindings, but TD1s I took some turns on are a cut above anything I've tried. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BryanZ Posted January 29, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2009 thats correct, I do want to haul ass I was thinking td1's, but was confused about sizing. Is it just one binding fits all? is there a certain type of boot I need with a td1? or will any snowboard hardboot fit them? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KingCrimson Posted January 29, 2009 Report Share Posted January 29, 2009 Pretty sure as long as you're in the normal range from about MP 26-30 you never need to worry about sizing, the exception being Catek bindings which come in two sizes. The bigger size fits all, the smaller one is theoretically more supple and fits up to 27 or 28(?) Within reason, (No antiquities, and the Cateks I mentioned above in certain cases) any hardboot will fit any standard toe-clip binding. All mainstream snowboard specific hardboots made in the past few years will be able to use Intec heels for step in bindings as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BryanZ Posted January 29, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2009 well thankyou that clears it up i see that there is a nice selection of step in bindings how difficult are td1's to latch on? I can't picture the process Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Art Posted January 29, 2009 Report Share Posted January 29, 2009 Go to the welcome center on this site. Then, go make a pot of coffee, pull up a comfy chair and go here: http://www.alpinecarving.com/ You should have no problems fitting bindings to your boots. Fin has done all the leg work (or Catek for that matter) to make sure their bindings fit boots. the interface is common among boots/bindings. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KingCrimson Posted January 29, 2009 Report Share Posted January 29, 2009 There's appparently a little trick to get the heel bail to stay up by itself by tweaking it slightly so there is some friction in the mechanism. The ones I tried had floppy bails, it was no biggy to flip the heel bail up, and kick my heel in. Then it's the same as any other binding. There's just an element of quality you can feel in every aspect of the Bomber binding that I haven't seen in many, if any tangible objects. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chippermon Posted January 29, 2009 Report Share Posted January 29, 2009 I think you should shoot for inexpensive best quality used. Cheap won't last and will just piss you off in the long run. My Catek Olympics are very good. I think there has been two model upgrades since but not too many changes. Look for those. My new new favorite. F2 Race Titaniums (although they are on a metal board) Boots. Anything that fits properly. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bubba Posted January 29, 2009 Report Share Posted January 29, 2009 I cannot piece together which types of boots go with which bindingsthis is my first setup, and I am basically looking for the cheapest stuff possible, well atleast for the bindings I know my boot size is a 29.5 cm I see a lot of different stuff for sale, and I'm sitting here scratching my head about what types of bindings I need. I saw nothing in the FAQ's to assist me. Someone please take me to boot/binding school! As far as bindings go, they are like the five point restraint system that I use in my stock car. I would never go for the cheapest belts.......they with the roll cage are what keeps me alive in a crash. Nothing sucks worse than a binding failure at speed. From firsthand experience it is not fun to break a bail while riding. I ride Bombers and Burton Race Plates. I have broken other bindings but not these. Catek is another option. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SEJ Posted January 29, 2009 Report Share Posted January 29, 2009 I would recommend Catek OS1s, long plate. I've had three pairs. They are bullet proof, have adjustable canting, and are a great deal. They normally sell here for around $125.(At least that's what I've bought and sold mine for.) The only complaint I have about them is the 4mm allen screws strip real easy. At this price point I think they are a lot of bang for the buck. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xy9ine Posted January 29, 2009 Report Share Posted January 29, 2009 There's appparently a little trick to get the heel bail to stay up by itself by tweaking it slightly so there is some friction in the mechanism. The ones I tried had floppy bails, it was no biggy to flip the heel bail up, and kick my heel in. Then it's the same as any other binding. that's actually my one criticism of my td3's. sometimes tough to get the heel to stay upright while locking in the toe, so it takes a few attempts. my ancient rad-airs have a spring loaded heel bail, so this is never an issue. wonder if there's a mcgyver hack to alleviate this issue... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KingCrimson Posted January 29, 2009 Report Share Posted January 29, 2009 Don't the TD3s have hard stops? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
xy9ine Posted January 29, 2009 Report Share Posted January 29, 2009 Don't the TD3s have hard stops? yeah. still tilts back enough for the boot to slide over top if not positioned *just right*. could just be an issue with the shape of my vintage boots as well. not sure if anyone else experiences this. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Keenan Posted January 29, 2009 Report Share Posted January 29, 2009 You can take bailing wire and wrap it around the lower part of the bail, then crimp it with pliers. It creates a sort of block so the bail doesn't fall all the way down. I have also taken a beer cap and used pliers to crimp it to the lower part of the bail (like a taco), if you do one on either side of the bail, even better. This is for TD1's and 2's when the springs wear out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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