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Has anyone machined 3d disks for their F2 Plates?


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Guest Frappe

I've got access to a full machine shop here at school, get the plates to me within three weeks and I can set them up to work with a 3d hole pattern. Probably. Send me pictures first.



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I don't have access no any machines, but I know that it is unlikely that disks similar to these could be machined. It would be easy to get the shape of the disk and to make the holes, but the problem is the teeth that keep the angles set. These are nearly impossible (or at least very tough) to make. And I do not know how well it will keep the bindings would keep their angles without teeth.

The other thing I might suggest, which would be much easier, would be to make adapter plates to put in between the bindings and the board. I know some did it in plastic, other in aluminium, but it would be much easier to do in my opinion.


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The middle hole serves no purpose that I can tell. Don't bother with it.

Should I ship you the disk and the binding? Email me at "andersen_m (at) yahoo (dot) com" with you address. I'll pay for all materials, shipping both ways, and enough on top of that to buy you a few six packs.


There is a rubber gasket in the binding hole that the disk sits in. I've got another set of F2s (TitanFlex) that the disks have no teeth at all. It is just a press fit into the rubber gasket that is tightened by screwing the disk into the board. I've never had them slip, so I think a toothless disk will work here as well.

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Hi, Mark

You are completely right, F2 disks don't have teeth at all.

I have had the Titanflex and the Titanium, both work the same as you stated.

So this must be a simple job to make some disks, somebody with the right machinery.

Hope you will succeed because there are no 3-hole disks for these plates anymore.

Greets, Hans.

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Guest Pre School Rider

While it limits your adjustment range along the inserts,modifying F-2 metal discs to fit Burton boards is not a big deal.Just take the slots and widen them by 4mm where you want to fit on a Burton hole pattern. 4X4 is 40mm square,where Burton's 3-d is a 42mm equalateral triangle.This widening allows you to pick a few spots along the disc for some small increments of stance adjustment while using four screws still.If you want more adjustment range,you can go to three screws by poking new holes in the discs center,just use a screw that's 2mm shorter(8mm long,btw).I've done both types of mods to my venerable Rad-Air plates(and a pair of '94 vintage Rad-Air softies,too.) to get them onto my CK,PJ, or Air-6.Now,it's moot point,as my Freestyle Rad-Air boards outcarve any and all current Burtons,so I just ride with the Originators of the 4X4 hole pattern;RAD-AIR!

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Guest Frappe

PSR- what you describe is basically what I was planning to do. Modify the hole-structure in the existing plates so that it would work for a 3d hole setup.

Sorry if that wasn't clear initially.

So Mark- materials cost would be negative, as I'd be taking material off of the existing plates ;)

So if you're fine with that, go right ahead and send, email me at Frappe @ lunaticus.net (remove the spaces), and I'll reply with a shipping address.

I don't really have time to take on a full project of making new plates, as I'm about to be off working on a graphic design project.

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I made a set of 3 hole disks for my 4x4 Snow Pro bindings. The machine shop knocked 'em out in a day.

I did have to do some dremel work on the base plates of the bindings, there is still plenty of material as not to cause a concern. If you want more info, send me an email.

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