photodad2001 Posted February 8, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 8, 2008 Right... but why do you want to merge the highback and the boot the first place? To me (no expert), the purpose of the higback is to act as a lever on the board for heelside turns. For toeside turns, the power comes from the boot stiffness where the tongue of the boot act as the lever and the highback doesn't really come into play. This is why step-ins and hardboots don't require any straps at all... the stiff boot tongue is a more efficient means of transferring your energy to your toeside edge. Step-ins that don't use a high-back system (rossi and some switch) have the highback built into the boot so to speak. They are considerably stiffer and from my experience a less comfortable boot. The system I have uses a high back on the binding base just like a strap binding. The boot upper is no different from any other soft boot. That's what I was looking for 3 years ago when I bought them. Now I want to modify them to my riding style now. The third strap would hold the binding too the boot on toeside carves and (what I'm hoping will happen) make an instantaneous reaction when I iniciate the carve. Also help hold the board angle and take stress off the lower leg. That's what I HOPE it's going to do. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueB Posted February 8, 2008 Report Share Posted February 8, 2008 Yes it does that to some degree. Especially if you like running a bit steeper angles, it adds a lot of latteral support. The Raichle tongue I just slipped under the laces. Works like a charm. It's way stiffer then the floppy little plastic that Drivers have in their thongues. Funny enough, when I switch to Switch, I am planning to add the top strap too, for the very reasons you described. Tricky part is to come up with efficent system of locking the highback to the base, so it doesnt flip forward... Beware of the Burton step-ins, too many bad stories about them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lonerider Posted February 8, 2008 Report Share Posted February 8, 2008 Step-ins that don't use a high-back system (rossi and some switch) have the highback built into the boot so to speak. They are considerably stiffer and from my experience a less comfortable boot. The system I have uses a high back on the binding base just like a strap binding. The boot upper is no different from any other soft boot. That's what I was looking for 3 years ago when I bought them. Now I want to modify them to my riding style now. The third strap would hold the binding too the boot on toeside carves and (what I'm hoping will happen) make an instantaneous reaction when I iniciate the carve. Also help hold the board angle and take stress off the lower leg. That's what I HOPE it's going to do.I am aware of how step-in systems work and the benefits of boots with a highback and boots without a highback... I learned on Clicker (no highback) and after a few years switched to Clicker HB (highback) for a few more years before I switched to strap bindings.Again, my opinion only... but I don't think adding a third strap will be as great as you hope... but definitely go try it. It's already been tried before several times and while some people like it, it isn't hugely popular. I modified my bindings using a booster strap as the third strap on my strap binding a few years ago as well... was a little more responsive... but totally not worth the hassle in my opinion. In the end, I found using a third strap to improve toeside turns to be like trying to lift yourself up by your bootstraps (better ways to do it). Like I said in the previous post... the way you get instantaneous reaction is a stiffer tongue (either stiffer softboots... or ahem... hardboots). A stiffer boots also reduces stress on the lower legs (as does increasing your strength). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
photodad2001 Posted February 8, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 8, 2008 Yes it does that to some degree. Especially if you like running a bit steeper angles, it adds a lot of latteral support. The Raichle tongue I just slipped under the laces. Works like a charm. It's way stiffer then the floppy little plastic that Drivers have in their thongues. Funny enough, when I switch to Switch, I am planning to add the top strap too, for the very reasons you described. Tricky part is to come up with efficent system of locking the highback to the base, so it doesnt flip forward... Beware of the Burton step-ins, too many bad stories about them. I'm definately going to try the tounge under the laces. If there's enough overlap at the heel maybe a small t-bolt, or along the sides of the binding where the highback attaches to the base? Haven't had any problems with the burton si's so far. Well into my 3rd season and the onlything I've noticed is my boots are getting softer and more plyable. I got'em on-line from a warehouse distributer. They were actually a boot and binding system burton made for rentals so they may be a bit beefier. (and there's a big 11 on the back) I bought an extra set of bindings off ebay and I don't get in and out as smooth as the ones they came with. The materials are definately different, especially the metal used for the clamping system. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bobdea Posted February 8, 2008 Report Share Posted February 8, 2008 if you want stiff go get the driver SI and the burton SI-X, about as stiff as a softboot setup can get, stiffer than catek+ driver x even both can be had super cheap too. even that system is too much for me, it felt good to rail on but took so much feel away and was restricting in some ways that I feel were counter productive. most other riders with the same boot/binding combo felt the same. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
photodad2001 Posted February 8, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 8, 2008 It's already been tried before several times and while some people like it, it isn't hugely popular. I modified my bindings using a booster strap as the third strap on my strap binding a few years ago as well... was a little more responsive... but totally not worth the hassle in my opinion.Like I said in the previous post... the way you get instantaneous reaction is a stiffer tongue (either stiffer softboots... or ahem... hardboots). A stiffer boots also reduces stress on the lower legs (as does increasing your strength). Let me try the 3 strap binding and the plastic tounge thing first. I'll think about the hardboots. (mmmmm, done.) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
photodad2001 Posted February 8, 2008 Author Report Share Posted February 8, 2008 if you want stiff go get the driver SI and the burton SI-X, about as stiff as a softboot setup can get, stiffer than catek+ driver x even I've currently using the Burton Foundation "rental" system. I haven't been able to come across a pair of driver si boots in my size. Size 11. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
stevo Posted February 8, 2008 Report Share Posted February 8, 2008 in deep powder i like the third (top) strap just on the front foot...it can also be adjusted to various degrees of tightness depending on terrain. I find with the third strap on the front foot only i can have more powerful turns yet still get in a really low (ducking tree limbs) crouch by bending my back knee without the board coming up on edge. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlueB Posted February 11, 2008 Report Share Posted February 11, 2008 So I've tried the Vans/Switch, highback (x type) bindings yesterday. Boots are pretty stiff fore/aft but somewhat soft latterally. They work great for lower angles. For higher angles a very solid third strap would be required. Very solid interface of the sole to the binding is just great as oposed to constant wiggle you get from strap bindings. Stepping in is easy with highbacks in normal position. When you rotate them to bias the edge it complicates the things a bit... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr D Posted March 5, 2008 Report Share Posted March 5, 2008 simple answer rivet a set of booster straps to your fave highbacks and carve. Ntypes switch are great as long as they have the booster strap built in. I like the overall motion better than the xtypes which feel to stiff fore and aft and sloppy side to side. I also wear my ntypes with deeluxe hardboot liners which are thicker and taller. more comfort and stiffness. I have a booster strap on my catek free rides that I think firms them up nicely. drake carbon highbacks and straps on the cateks as well Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
photodad2001 Posted March 11, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 11, 2008 simple answer rivet a set of booster straps to your fave highbacks and carve. Done and done!!! To make things even better there's an inch overlap of the bottom of the highback and the heel of the binding so I riveted them together too. I used 3 on each to obtain maximum rigidity, one dead center and the other 2 between the center and where the highback joint attaches to the base, one on either side. The highbacks don't colapse now, but I have another pair so I'm not worried, and they can always be removed. I noticed a sizable difference between with and without. I was able to carve deeper and get on edge steeper with less effort. I was also getting lower than I ever have before, rubbin' elbows with the slope!!!! I even tweaked my angles as far as they'd go without board showing between the boot and edge. I'm at 48 front and 36 rear. I could go steeper on the rear, but it's more comphy where they're at now. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr D Posted March 11, 2008 Report Share Posted March 11, 2008 sweet! what bindings did you use? Pics would be great as well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
photodad2001 Posted March 11, 2008 Author Report Share Posted March 11, 2008 sweet! what bindings did you use? Pics would be great as well. I used my Burton SI binings. No toe strap or heel strap, just one at the top of the highback. I propped it up against a railing where I could see it from inside the lodge, boarders walking by were looking at it like it had a std!!!:eek: It doesn't help that the binding is black and the strap is white. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silver Posted August 28, 2008 Report Share Posted August 28, 2008 Hello guys! I just baught these Burton Torque and i am wondering if there are gas pedal compatible with them? My feet are mondo 29 and although i have a M/L size, the bindings base seems to be a little short. I would like to find a way to solve this issue, any ideas are welcome! Thanks! Silver Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
west carven Posted August 28, 2008 Report Share Posted August 28, 2008 howdy dont know if you saw these on bomber Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
west carven Posted August 29, 2008 Report Share Posted August 29, 2008 howdy oh yeah forgot to add that the torques are from 1995 and they get brittle with age, so be careful. the straps may break easy or other parts may fail. west carven Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tom Posted August 29, 2008 Report Share Posted August 29, 2008 In the last picture west carven posted you can see three notches. Burton used to make gaspedals that would fit in those. But that was only on the newer models. Finding some could be a problem, but who knows, someone could have some. Maybe making some yourself from a hard foam is an option, dould turn out to be a nice project. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kipstar Posted August 29, 2008 Report Share Posted August 29, 2008 instead of doing all of that, I reckon just get hardboots or learn how to ride using your calf muscles more. I've ridden with the guys with the fully soft hardboots, and they can ride EC style without too much problem; the whole issue of the board imediately going on edge is a lot to do with how you set up going out of the previous turn. I've ridden with complete jibbers that could really carve with ultra soft set ups, so obviously it is not mandatory to have the 3rd strap. I also used to think at one point you could survive on soft boots, back in 1991 I think it was when I then switched to hardboots. Way better solution. As a windsurfer, basically trying to carve in softboots with a 3 strap system is like using a late 1980s course board and same era sail to sail back and forth; sure you can do it, but it is making life a lot more difficult than just getting a decent modern futura with a sailworks retro that will just cr*p all over the old board. Learn how to use your 2 strap system the best you can, probably is the simplest. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tex1230 Posted August 29, 2008 Report Share Posted August 29, 2008 This message is hidden because photodad2001 is on your ignore list. http://www.bomberonline.com/VBulletin/profile.php?do=editlist STFU. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Silver Posted August 29, 2008 Report Share Posted August 29, 2008 Thank you for these answers! Unfortunately, there are no notches on my Torque (see 1st of the three pictures above) to add gas pedals. However, if anyone has these gaspedals and do not use them, i might be interested... As gas pedals did not exist on all models before, any feedback from freecarvers/freeriders concerning this issue of having your boot longer than the binding? Does it impact a lot the transmission of pressure on the edge (as your toes are "in the air")? thank you Silver Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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