skogs Posted January 21, 2008 Report Share Posted January 21, 2008 OK, I recently took the plunge and got into hard boot boarding. I've been riding soft boots/freeride boards for 20 years, but never got to my goal - true carving. So, I bought an Axxess 172 with 21.5 waist as I figured an AM board would be a great way to get into carving. I'm riding Stratos Pro boots mondo 29 and TD2 standard bindings. I also set up the board with 3 degree cant/lift on the back and the same in front. The first day I rode the board, I was using a 50/45 binding angles and was able to rail some pretty good carves (on soft hard pack, temp was 45 degrees). I experienced boot out a couple of times (toe-side) though and realized I needed to steepen the angles. So, yesterday (day 2) I dialed in 60/55 and had a tough time initiating toe side turns. It was pretty unmanageable on both toe side and heel-side. So, I dialed it back down to 50/45 and was able to get back into a little bit of a groove. It was a lot colder yesterday (temp was 15 degrees) and the boots felt a lot stiffer. To prevent toe drag, my back foot needs to be at least 55 degrees, although at that angle, it seem pretty difficult to turn the board. I'm running a centered stance - 19.25 inches. What should I do? I'm thinking I might run at 55/45 the next time I go out and maybe work up to 60/50. Thoughts? Thanks, New HBooter Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D-Sub Posted January 21, 2008 Report Share Posted January 21, 2008 ease into the higher angles, definitely. me personally, I just set the angles to right at the edge on heel/toe. I have slight bias toward toe on front foot and toward heel on rear foot. if you can rail at 45/50 you can rail at 55/60, imo. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skogs Posted January 21, 2008 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2008 OK. Thanks for the suggestions. I'll stick with the lower angles until I become more comfortable riding varied terrain. First day I rode greens and blues (Stratton) and yesterday I rode mostly blues with some steeper sections (Sunapee). I resigned myself to riding the lower sections of Flying Goose and Egg beater as the slope was more consistent and with less people than Bonanza/Chipmunk. At angles of 50/45, I definitely have more toe overhang than heel overhang, so I may adjust the bias so that the overhang is equal on toe side and heel side. The weirdest thing about running the 60/55 angles was it was so easy to wind up riding backwards, when all I wanted to do was initiate a toe side turn. At times, I had to twist my upper body to get the toeside turn to initiate, which I know is particularly bad technique. It was a little scary to initiate turns on steep sections only by leaning into the turn. As an FYI, I've been riding 40/30 angles on my freeride board/softboots for years and was pretty comfortable. I may monkey around with the stance width (may go 20-21") and cant angles (maybe 0 on front and 3 on back) to see if that provides a more comfortable stance. As an FYI, I'm 6'0" and 175 lbs. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Allee Posted January 21, 2008 Report Share Posted January 21, 2008 I have the same angles problem on the Axxess as you. A straight raceboard I can run 65/55 no problem, but I can't ride the Axxess any steeper than 55/45. The only saving grace is that my boots are a lot smaller than yours. Ralann's suggestion is a good one - push the heel block on the bindings back so that the heel has the overhang, and you have as much room on the toe side as possible. See if that gives you the room you need at comfortable angles... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D-Sub Posted January 21, 2008 Report Share Posted January 21, 2008 o I may adjust the bias so that the overhang is equal on toe side and heel side. Why not adjust the bias and try NO hand on either. Get that boot centered! WARNING....this can get pretty finicky! But theoretically due to sidecut to center the boot between the edges you need to run some bias. Plenty of people don't bother, but maybe it'll suit you. The weirdest thing about running the 60/55 angles was it was so easy to wind up riding backwards, when all I wanted to do was initiate a toe side turn. At times, I had to twist my upper body to get the toeside turn to initiate, which I know is particularly bad technique. Maybe this is actually the source of your problem? Twisting won't get you anywhere but busted up, imo, so maybe (not discounting setup problems here, but...) you need to have a look at your technique, too. It was a little scary to initiate turns on steep sections only by leaning into the turn. I don't think anyone would suggest ever initiating a turn by only leaning into it (except when practicing the norm) As an FYI, I've been riding 40/30 angles on my freeride board/softboots for years and was pretty comfortable. Good to know! As long as you've got the right positioning, and are able to carve "feet up" you should adapt to higher angles in no time! I may monkey around with the stance width (may go 20-21") and cant angles (maybe 0 on front and 3 on back) to see if that provides a more comfortable stance. As an FYI, I'm 6'0" and 175 lbs. Definitely try a wider stance, but not TOO wide. Also try riding completely flat? Some people do it! Or ALL lift, no cant, or, or or or orrrrrrrrrrr (welcome to the geeky world of carving equipment!) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trikerdad Posted January 21, 2008 Report Share Posted January 21, 2008 I may be wrong but, I beleive you're probably still trying to heel and toe your turns instead of using your knees. That is the biggest difference when you go to steeper angles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trikerdad Posted January 21, 2008 Report Share Posted January 21, 2008 Allee, your smaller feet are probably why you have to run shallower angles on the wider board. Back to what D-Sub said about setting up to the edge of the board. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Allee Posted January 21, 2008 Report Share Posted January 21, 2008 I think this is the technical term - it just "feels weird". Interestingly enough - I have the OP's problem - it doesn't feel like it wants to turn. When I do get it on edge, it bites like a piranha and runs me into the trees. It's got me beat. All my race boards - I can ride 65/55 all day. My 22cm waisted 163 WFO, I ride 65/55. The demo Axxess I rode at Sun Peaks - 65/55 and away I went. This one? No freakin way. I don't know why. I can't ride Bomber bindings on it either (yet I ride them on everything else). Yet when I set it up 55/45 and put plastic binders on it, with all other things being equal, it rides like a dream. Go figure. D-Sub makes a good point, in that the OP may be trying to ride it like a soft boot board, through the ankles. I don't find that my Axxess can be ridden that way. It LIKES to be ridden like a carver, and it will take as much aggro as my 150lb can throw at it... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Allee Posted January 21, 2008 Report Share Posted January 21, 2008 They're still plate bindings, just plastic ones (Oxygen O2's). I don't do softies :-) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skogs Posted January 21, 2008 Author Report Share Posted January 21, 2008 Yes, I think I was trying to drive the board yesterday with toes and heels. On the first day, I was more consciously trying to drive with the knees and it responded accordingly. I was on green wide trails that day and it was a lot easier to try this technique. I also was able to get down low as my boots had a lot more flex due to the warmer temps that day (45 degrees). I think the steeper terrain and colder temps/stiffer boots yesterday forced me back to toe/heel turning. Riding yesterday was like night and day from the first day. Good suggestion on standing on the board without bindings to find the most comfortable position. I'll try centering the boots across the board and riding without cant/lift. Thanks P.S. Similar to Allee, I felt the board wanted to run me right into the trees at the higher angles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D-Sub Posted January 21, 2008 Report Share Posted January 21, 2008 P.S. Similar to Allee, I felt the board wanted to run me right into the trees at the higher angles. It doesn't. It wants you to rip the entire mountain, putting it through its paces. Otherwise it'll get board and break up with you for another rider who'll show it who's boss. Or something like that. Tell you what, though...there are PLENTY of east coast carvers who riiiiippp. You should be able to hook up with someone no problem. Try the ride board! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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