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Posted

didn't see this addressed before -

How durable / strong are the new metal boards?

I'm a bigger guy (~220lbs on a good day, I'm sure with gear I'm pushing 230+) and a relatively agressive rider - with the exception of the Madd 170, I've flattened most of my boards in a season or two. All of you metal board zealots have got me jazzed to try them out, but I'm not sure if I'm ready to drop the $ just yet.

For you titanal enthusiasts - how heavy are you? how agressive? how many days a year are you riding? anyone bent or broken a metal board?

love to hear from the board makers on this, but I assume they are swamped with orders given the time of year....

Posted

just go with a custom flex if the builder thinks you need it. If you call Prior make sure you talk with Dean because some of the people answering the phone there are kinda clueless.

madds come in three flavors of flex so a stiff metal Madd would probably work out if the stiff glass madd worked for you, I'm guessing.

Posted
For you titanal enthusiasts - how heavy are you? how agressive? how many days a year are you riding? anyone bent or broken a metal board?

Good topic tex! This is a thread that us Clydesdales should update/keep alive.

Considering metal boards are "relatively" new, there might not be much data available about the longevity of metal boards for heavier riders. Thor should be able to provide some data as well.

Here is my info:

- 210lbs in my birthday suit

- Riding an SG 178 Race T. This is a production board, not specifically made for my weight.

- Ride "race style" = aggressive [read: I have no problem decambering a board (pic1 and pic2 )]

- Only have ~7 days on it so far, so I do not know about the longevity

- Board is snappy and will pop me airborne if I stay on the tail transitioning out of a turn.

- No issues to date

Posted

First All of the Metal Boards I have (Prior 183 Metal, Kessler KST 183, Kessler KST 162) are all amazing boards for me at 160 lbs. I would reccomend having them made a bit stiffer for you at 220-230. My good friend and racig buddy (215lbs) didnt realize he needed a stiffer made metal board until he snapped two of them mid toe side turn. There goes 2 Grand. But They are surre amazing boards just custom them to your size and you will be fine.

Posted

I don't think the stiffness would be what would worry me.

How about just overall longevity???? I like my boards to last for a little while.... Do the metal boards show the same long term durability as traditional construction?????

Posted

Tex, I'm about the same size as you and I'm staying away from metal. I bent (decambered in front of front foot) a Prior and 2 Coilers in the last two years. They all happened during a crash but, I tend to crash a lot. When I had my Tinklers built, and explained my problems to Mike, he suggested that metal probably wasn't the way I should go. So, unless I can find someone who would warranty a metal :( , I'll just have to listen to the raves with envy.

Posted

For you titanal enthusiasts - how heavy are you? how agressive? how many days a year are you riding? anyone bent or broken a metal board?...

85kg,

flegmatic,

60-80days 95% on metal ;)

Posted

The stats: 6'2; 240lbs (naked and after a #2); Mondo 30

I am hard on equipment and I am always searching for something that will give more performace. Since making the switch to metal this year I can honestly say that if I had to replace a board every season that it would be worth it. However, initial impressions indicate that save for a giant crash, the board will last many seasons. Time will tell I suppose - we are all data points right now.

Posted

My question is at 225-230lbs are we losing some of the advantages of metal? It seems the people that rave about these boards are the lighter riders in general. On conventional boards the light rider would get a noodle board if the length got too long, and the dampness of the board would be lost. Bigger riders have the advantage of riding stiffer boards in general and the damp factor is not of such concern.

I will say I have not rode one of the new metal boards. This is just a thought. I have a tinkler 185 and stiff and I believe it is very damp. So let's here your opinions. I have heard Bobdea is a big guy who loves the prior metals, and from what I have read you love the metals.

Again just a thought to the advantages of metal.

Posted

I'm 250 lb's. (I still believe we'll go back to broadsword swinging mid evil times and then the big men will show you little dudes what time it is) :eplus2:

But seriously...., I'm going to get Bruce to make me a 172 AM this year and I have been in contact with Scott at Catek to see what Kessler would do to create a SL board for a guy my size. I'll keep all the clydesdale'rs up to speed as I go along.

As it was stated above there doesn't seem to be a lot of history to really show how these boards will stand up to the 200 + pounders.

Quoting the Dodge Hemi commercial "I guess you'r about to find out"

k

Posted
I'm 250 lb's. (I still believe we'll go back to broadsword swinging mid evil times and then the big men will show you little dudes what time it is) :eplus2:

Quoting the Dodge Hemi commercial "I guess you'r about to find out"

k

+1 on the broadsword games...... :eplus2:

from a fellow Clydesdale Canuck....

D. :biggthump

Posted

If you've ever had a piece of titanal in your hands, you wouldn't have any doubts about durability. A sheet of titanal is like a noodle. You can bend it into a tight circle. There's no way it could contribute to decambering. The only problem I could see is if you kinked it.

Posted

Metal is new technology to the recreational carving crowd and there are several very outspoken BOL members promoting it. I do happen to think it is the shiz in terms of ride quality and smoothness on snow. My concern is durability as it is to many of the other posters on this thread. My guess is there will be some lag time between what we have now and how boards will be constructed in the future. There seems to have been progress made already that would indicate the bugs are getting worked out (Prior figured out the delam problems, Coiler is using a top sheet over the metal, Virus is using thicker metal than most, Kesslers aren't snapping in two any more). But so far in the "big" picture I am not completely sold for two reasons. 1) I like a very lively responsive board and 2) Among others we know about, I watched Blue Bird break his new Kessler on his first run with a fairly simple crash. (yes he was using a protective binding spacer plate.. he has ridden the board since without the cracks getting bigger, but logic would suggest that the crash was the beginning of the end for that board). For now, if you have a grand or two to throw at a board and want ultra smooth and damp... roll the dice and go for metal. Just know that if you hit something or take a good spill, your board will likely bend or break. If it were me, I would lean towards builders using a top sheet over the metal.

If anyone has info on metal that has been ridden hard for a season or two, please pass it along. The only one I've seen ridden that much is now a complete noddle, but making an assumption on one board isn't very reasonable and I think any of us could noodle any board if ridden hard for a season or two.

K1.jpg

2.jpg

If this board look like it's in rough shape to you... try taking a photo of metal with the flash on. You will be amazed at what shows up.

Posted

I'm going to take a wild guess that the binding was mounted to the right-hand set of inserts in the photo. I am also guessing that the tear was on the heel side of the board. How'm I doing so far Thor?

Titanal has a very high tensile strength and therefore the cores to which the titanal skins are laminated are relatively thin (compared to fiberglass boards) in order to keep the stiffness manageable. This means that the inserts are bearing in 7 to 8 mm of wood. Even when hardwood is incorporated at these locations in the core, it may not be enough to deal with the stresses. It looks like the Titanal tore where the inserts flexed the core upward. While Titanal has high tensile strength, it is only about the gauge of an aluminum pop can and tears quite easily. All that would be needed to cause a tear to propagate would be a slight nick at the insert hole.

You pays your money and you takes your chances.

Posted

Tinkler uses a thicker and or multiple layers inside the board. The core is profiled to allow for the metal , however they are not thin. I am not aware of any issues to date with the Tinkler metal boards. The "System" boards are so damp and free flexing that I think the metal is a less noticeable factor.

My new TNT is amazing. Mike had stated it was the best board he had ever ridden. I think I now know why. We have not had much in the way of groomers and I look forward to putting it through the paces on firmer but smooth snow. The half day I got on it was remarkable. More later.

Posted

Thor I appreciate that you posted to this, I haven't been paying attention lately. :biggthump

Description of the wreck;

medium speed (15 mph), I did fall onto my back and as I was sliding the nose caught the snow, thus pulling at the inserts. The set of inserts with the crack does correspond to the heel of my front foot (goofy) in the front set of inserts. the board is a Kessler 185 GS from 2005, Bindings-catek world cups, 1/8" thick riser plate. Rider - 5'11", 200 lbs

I don't know if any other variables had an impact on this crack. The air temperature was -20 F and the snow temp was -30 F, there was a ski race happening and the snow temp was being discussed. I am sure the board has many days on it in a race course, but I don't have an idea of how many.

after riding it on Saturday, I can say that this board is amazing in the mind of a reasonably skilled free carver.

csquared or anyone else;

that is interesting to know about titanal, I'm sure this is not the first time this has been seen. besides the failures due to the lack of a riser, has this been a common failure? Would this happen as easily on a brand new board?

after riding this board, the technology is producing a board that is nearly telepathic.

I plan to continue to ride the board and monitor the tear. A bandaid has been suggested and I am going to try it. (drilling tiny holes, size TBD. and filling the holes with epoxy trying to saturate the ends of the tear as much as possible).

anyone with other ideas or experience, I would love to know more

I'm happy to say that I'm glad that I did not buy the board new, but I will buy another metal in the future, I'm confident that Bola has one ready, I'm just not sure when I will be.

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