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Posted

hey all was just looking for some input on how much better the newer boards are than boards from like say 5 to 10 years ago? i currently ride a plethora of old factory primes 163 167 173 185 etc and am trying to figure out if i should upgrade or just ride these old ones till they have negative camber and fall apart? i guess im just wondering how these older planks compare to the likes of coiler, madd, donnek, and others and if they are holding me back or not.

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Posted
hey all was just looking for some input on how much better the newer boards are than boards from like say 5 to 10 years ago? i currently ride a plethora of old factory primes 163 167 173 185 etc and am trying to figure out if i should upgrade or just ride these old ones till they have negative camber and fall apart? i guess im just wondering how these older planks compare to the likes of coiler, madd, donnek, and others and if they are holding me back or not.

I am just getting back into riding after a few years of stopping. Prior (ha!) to buying my current Donek FCII 175 Olympic, I had ridden PJ's, Alps, and a Few FP's and a single Ride Kildy (that I still have). I love the Donek. I love the Donek. I love the Donek. Totally ridiculous edge hold, super smooth. Fun as hell. I haven't strapped on any of the older boards since I bought the donek. I just can't get myself to do it. I can't speak for any other brands, but I love the Donek.

Posted

he loves the donek but the truth is metal is the friggin' holy grail and would make any donek look old and washed up.

Unless it was a metal donek...........

How much better are the newer boards?

well, I'm in the process of selling anything I have that does not have metal, because it's that good. I like damp and grippy so metal does it for me.

Some of the older boards still rip, Madd, Coiler AMs and so on but you can get them in metal flavors now.

did I mention metal kicks ass?

Posted

I haven't tried a metal board yet, but the last time I rolled by Priors' shop he gave a free demo card that I intend to take advantage of soon. It's difficult to imagine an improvement on some of the boards in my little quiver, but I'll try one and post my thoughts.

later,

Dave R.

Posted

the first couple runs on metal you're wondering if it's all it's cracked up to be, the boards almost feel dead but then you pound through some ruts at the end of the day and fall in love.

Posted

New construction boards compared to factory primes are - in my opinion - definitely superior. If you have the opportunity to try one I think you would be very pleasantly suprised.

Metal (titanal) boards are a great option - for some - depending on what type of ride you are looking for. I've ridden both metal and non and up until now I still prefer my Madd over the metal I've ridden.

Posted
New construction boards compared to factory primes are - in my opinion - definitely superior. If you have the opportunity to try one I think you would be very pleasantly suprised.

do you mean "new contruction", or "new materials"

Dave R.

Posted

I just don't get this "metal is the Holy Grail" sentiment. I go back and forth between my metal Coiler and my fibreglas boards and while they are definitely different, I can't say categorically that metal is superior. I think it's highly dependent on snow conditions and rider style.

Furthermore, how much different are Factory Primes from new Doneks? Has construction technique and materials changed that much? I'd like to hear from someone who really knows.

Posted

Boardman73,

I'm told that new boards out perform old boards in general. I'm sure this is true and if you have the money go out and buy a new board. I'm sure it will be worth it. For me, I ride a 2001 K2 Fatbob with soft bindings and can carve it almost as good as any of the newer hard decks that I have owned. I don't think that getting a new board will improve riding, I think riding improves riding. I also think that any good rider can carve ANYTHING in any coditions on any slope. Boardman73 if you got the dough buy a new board, if you don't ride your fp's. They'll do just fine.

Posted
hey all was just looking for some input on how much better the newer boards are than boards from like say 5 to 10 years ago? i currently ride a plethora of old factory primes 163 167 173 185 etc and am trying to figure out if i should upgrade or just ride these old ones till they have negative camber and fall apart? i guess im just wondering how these older planks compare to the likes of coiler, madd, donnek, and others and if they are holding me back or not.

There is a huge difference between the Burton factory primes and any of the other local board makers you mentioned. If you haven't been on a Coiler, Madd, Donek or Prior you have no idea what you are missing, I highly recommend coming to the ECES to try some boards. Or

Startingate at the base of Stratton is the only shop I know of in New England that offers demos. Check them out the stock Coiler's, Donek's, TD2 and Catek bindings and a full line of boots as well.

Posted

so it seems you guys are saying that if i kick a$$ on my old primes , i will kick major a$$ on a newer deck:flamethro im almost afraid to try cuz i still have 2 more primes that havent even been ridden yet not to mention the rest of the snowboard museum filling up my basement since 1986!!

Posted

I don't see to great difference between my Prior 4WD 174 and Burton Speed 168W. 4WD is a bit damper, Speed is floatier.

Similar thing with WCR 181 vs Generics 170 or KR172c. WCR is a bit springier and damper? at the same time, but tires me more. Probably better edge hold, but its longer, right?

Love all my boards, old and new...

Posted
so it seems you guys are saying that if i kick a$$ on my old primes , i will kick major a$$ on a newer deck:flamethro im almost afraid to try cuz i still have 2 more primes that havent even been ridden yet not to mention the rest of the snowboard museum filling up my basement since 1986!!

Most factory primes feel like they should have swallow tails compared to new gear.

Some one posted the correct comparison. " I don't see to great difference between my Prior 4WD 174 and Burton Speed 168W. 4WD is a bit damper, Speed is floatier."

That about sums it up.... A allmountain board that is made to do everything ok.....Made to todays standards about the same as a stock burton race board made for racing.

Just quess what a new board made for racing would do....

I think all burton stock race boards are a joke... just a glorified freestyle board with a race shape. Great for begginers and light weight girls etc...

If you think they are the cats meow you really should try some new gear.

cuz your missing out.

Posted
he loves the donek but the truth is metal is the friggin' holy grail and would make any donek look old and washed up.

I’d like to see some before and after video to back up that claim.

I’m betting that if you video someone riding a metal board and a good standard construction board (similar specs), the viewing audience would have to look for the logos to be able to tell which board was getting ridden.

Here’s a video of me riding in CO on a 05/06 Donek FCII 163 and a Burton Coil 165 (late 1990’s?).

Both have around a 10m sidecut radius. I’m on the Donek in the first part of the video. I switch to the Burton at the 1:30 mark. My riding looks the same on both boards, and both boards felt very similar.

I seriously DOUBT buying a metal board is going to make me a better rider. I don’t race, so I don’t need the metal board to gain a fraction of a second on a race course. I suppose the metal board would be more enjoyable once the conditions start getting crappy.

I did buy a custom Donek 165 (end of 05/06 season) with Olympic construction. Now that board improved my EC riding. But I would guess that the 13m sidecut on the board had more to do with the EC performance than the Olympic construction.

Here’s a video of me riding the Donek 165 (currently my favorite board) at June Mtn.

I want to believe that metal is the Holy Grail. But, I’m just too much of a skeptic. Someone post up a before and after video and make me a believer.

Posted

you might not look different but the metal boards feel allot different. you will be more centered I'm willing to bet, this is at least true with the ones I have is you don't have to throw your weight around as much.

Did you watch the last Olympics?

no one on burton..........

you don't NEED metal, you don't even NEED hard boots but if you're gonna drop the kind of cash that a new donek or coiler the metal is more than worth the upgrade.

Metal really shines when you're not, when it's very icey or when it's rutted up, the boards allow you to ride across ruts and crud that would of been painful or tossed you.

If you bought a Olympic construction Donek obviously the money is not a issue. I have not been on those doneks but those who have say it's similar to a superboard coiler. Damp but not damp the way metal is.

There's a reason why Kessler owns the race scene, metal is part of that for sure.

Posted
If you bought a Olympic construction Donek obviously the money is not a issue. I have not been on those doneks but those who have say it's similar to a superboard coiler. Damp but not damp the way metal is.

Actually... I have ridden 3 Coiler SBs and 4 Donek Olympics, in varying sizes of each, and they are as different as beer and whiskey are from each other.

The Superboard Coiler is just plain damp. There's no other word for it. It's like the board has a suspension - your feel for the snow is somewhat dulled. They are also heavy, and plow right through uneven snow. Think "Cadillac"

The Donek Olympic is "quiet" but not "damp". You can feel the snow quite well through it, but it is grippier than the standard construction Donek or Coiler. Like Superboard and Metal, it keeps good edge contact over unevent terrain or poor grooming. The superboard isn't grippy in the same way Olympic is. The Olympic is still very snappy with a ton of rebound. Think "sports car with a user-friendly suspension". I find that Olympic makes more different on SL and FC than GS.

Metal on the other hand is much grippier than Olympic, even quieter, and also damp but not in a Cadillac kind of way - more like a high end European sedan kind of way. Much better on curves!

Posted
Did you watch the last Olympics?

no one on burton..........

Bob:

The WC racers primarily ride Kesslers with Hangl plates. Do you really think we should be emulating that equipment choice? I know if I did, I'd end up in the trees.

There's a huge difference between race gear and recreational gear. Us mortals need to factor in a lot more than just getting to the finish line first. Like budget for instance.

Posted

im pscyched to try one of these metal rides considering the last "new technology " i experienced in a deck was the channel bottom apocalypse prototypes that i broke a ton of back in the 90s but man did they ride great:eplus2:

Posted

The pure metal (Kessler, Prior) are so much easier to ride, as Bordy said it's worth it just to be able to ride that much longer at the same intensity before your legs give out. For the recreational carvers, this is the biggest plus for metal over traditional construction.

Posted
I’d like to see some before and after video to back up that claim.

I’m betting that if you video someone riding a metal board and a good standard construction board (similar specs), the viewing audience would have to look for the logos to be able to tell which board was getting ridden.

I can see a metal board from the chair they bounce and ride totally different.

Here’s a video of me riding in CO on a 05/06 Donek FCII 163 and a Burton Coil 165 (late 1990’s?).

Both have around a 10m sidecut radius. I’m on the Donek in the first part of the video. I switch to the Burton at the 1:30 mark. My riding looks the same on both boards, and both boards felt very similar.

Becuase both boards are just wood and glass and glue there is very little differences in the boards construction. Plus your turns are not powerful enough to fully max out either board in the vids. Its when the shape forces the board to fail that is the biggest difference. If I ride either of thoose boards they just fold in half.... Usally at much differnt speeds how ever with the burton failing first.

I seriously DOUBT buying a metal board is going to make me a better rider. I don’t race, so I don’t need the metal board to gain a fraction of a second on a race course. I suppose the metal board would be more enjoyable once the conditions start getting crappy.

Most athletes gain up to and over a full second on a thirty second race course on metal, not the fractions of seconds you are using to quess about metal, but full seconds, Silly how you have already convinced yourself you don't need metal. Why not ride gear then judge it?

I did buy a custom Donek 165 (end of 05/06 season) with Olympic construction. Now that board improved my EC riding. But I would guess that the 13m sidecut on the board had more to do with the EC performance than the Olympic construction.

Again wood glass and glue, what do you think taper and proper camber profile combined with side cuts up to and over 18 meters would do to your riding??

Here’s a video of me riding the Donek 165 (currently my favorite board) at June Mtn.

I want to believe that metal is the Holy Grail. But, I’m just too much of a skeptic. Someone post up a before and after video and make me a believer.

Yolu can be as skeptical as you would like but there is just no arguing that a more stable platform makes more stable riders. Everyone on the National and world wide race tour has gone to metal boards, BOL posters are ranting about how much they love their metal boards but there are still people on the BOL board who need more proof? :lol: :lol:

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