Jump to content
Note to New Members ×

TD2 SI 25.5 boot issues? Help Fin, Bob, or Anyone!


Bordy

Recommended Posts

Any one have some time on the TD2 SI with small feet had any centering issues or covered Plate to disk m8*16 bolt by the heel (Intec) piece. Which mean any time I want to move or adjust my bindings I have to remove the heel piece or at least loosen the screws some. With the micro adjust I am worried about wear of the micro channels the now 6mm bolt sits in. I can spin the whole plate 180 and stop the problem with this stance. Is that okay or are the plates made heel toe spacific (besides Laser Die).

Also because of my small shell size I have the toe block as inward as possible, but My boots are not centered they hang on the toe side And for Kix ( I want to try the set up) I put my Intec Heels on my Burton Boots with the Heel in the short boot position and can now move the heel over the edge some more(which is how I like it) But the toe adjustment will not go inward any more. I did try to spin the toe block around 180 by removing the bail and and spinng the block. My boot can now be centered but does not seem to sit on the toe block very well. I'm sure this Is not advised And I would like to run the burton set up. Mostly because my 324 fold like butter in the TD2 SI And even though I have My Intec heels in as tight as possible hay wiggle some. I made sure everything in clean and the purchase is correct but after two runs they got loose and were retightend to limit of srew slip or strip and still don't "close gap" enough to stop "very slight wiggle". Plus even though I have used 1 position cant adjusters from a Flexon Comp I stretched the square Hole the Inner disk sits in First run as well. I'm sure these boots are just way to soft for me, and the TD2 SI. I have been in a 225 race boot(for years) but ripped the heel off in TD1 standards. And only had 3 days on this crummy 324s in TD1s before TD2s. Please help me solve my problem! Do you think the AFs are the answer or will the Heads hold up? Any sugestions please!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Here is the non stock modifed front Block and bail set up See how I can now get to the M8 bolt with our removing the Intec heel block (every time). Also the boot moves toward the heel a bunch (12mm in this case). Allowing me to center my boots on the boards center axis. Which I could not do with the stock set up. But the toe doesn't sit as flat on the block and the pivit point, ( Bail micro adjuster) has changed the direction of force on the whole toe block and M6 bolts!

post-37-141842196094_thumb.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Bordy and I just got off the phone and all is good in TD2 land. However, I do want to share his situation here:

His overall question was to see if it was OK to "flip" the toe block on the SI system around 180 degrees to get better centering options for the really small boot sizes? The answer is yes, that is not a problem at all.

The TD2 SI will go down to a M23 with-out having to do this "flip" trick. However, if you need to do some extra custom centering the Toe Block has the ability to be flipped around and now you can get even more range of motion out of the entire system. Once again, this only really applies to very small boot sizes in general.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

My girlfriend is using the very smallest setting for her 23.5's on the TD2's. For the first few days of riding, it will probably be a pain fine tuning her bindings angles ... (but, it could be worse)

Do you think there would be any safety issues caused by reversing the Toe Block? That could be a really nice option for my girlfriend too.

Thanks !

~ Mike

Link to comment
Share on other sites

What if you remove the toe and heel blocks, rotate the whole binding 180 degrees, and put it back together? Would that put the 'base' of the three-screw triangle at the heel, so you have two screws on either side of the heel block rather than one screw right under the middle?

Bear in mind I don't have a TD2 in front of me to experiment with, I'm just looking at the photos above, so this might not be at all feasible.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nate,

tryed it already even mentioned it in paragraph 1 of my post. It can work depending on your stance. It sort of works with mine I asked Fin about it as well He tells me there is no toe or heel on the plate so It does not change the binding proformance at all! Good eye Nate that was my first solution as well

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Actually we were talking about different things. I was thinking of turning the lower parts of the binding around 180 degrees, and leaving the top plate where it is - but i think that this would reverse the cant settings... It might solve the bolt problem, but unless you're using 0-degree cant discs, it would probably create a bigger problem, by giving you outward cant.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Awesome dude !

Thanks for the update ... I fiddled with the bindings earlier, and flipping the toe block gave us a <b>lot</b> more adjustability.

I was a little worried because the front of the boot is <i>just barely</i> resting on the toe block. ~But it looks like there should be plenty of surface area for a good solid connection.

Once we find the correct angles, we'll probably flip the toe block back to it's normal position.... but this will make it a <b>lot</b> easier for fine tuning...

Thanks again (Billy & Fin) :D

~ Mike

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...