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coiler all-mtn metal ?


MR. JOHN DEERE !

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Again, my amateur opinion but I think two layer Titanal construction is likely almost a necessity on an alpine board. Any laminated assembly needs to be balanced to deal with changes in temperature and humidity. It is the bi-metal strip phenomenon: slightly different conditions between the top and bottom of a planar surface can cause significant distortion. I have seen a race board where Bruce stripped the top layer of Titanal off because of a delamination and then didn't get around to replacing the Titanal quickly enough. Between cupping and arching, the board looked like a spoon. This effect was exaggerated by the fact that the wood core was fully exposed on one side and laid up (sealed) on the other but the unbalanced laminations did part of the work.

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You have to have a layer on top and bottom otherwise the camber would reverse if the top only had the metal as the board cooled to snow temps. As C2 mentioned, a repair is tough as the aluminum oxidizes and you can't clean it to get a good bond. If it is a non critical non stress area you may get lucky but its still iffy. Also as C2 mentioned, if you just put a small nick in the material it will rip like a piece of paper so that means stressed areas would be more susceptible . Repairs on the top are more critical to bonding as the compressive forces want to pop the metal off while on the bottom its tension that wants to rip the metal apart so damage to the bottom would likely fracture rather than delam.

The cores are not too different from regular to metal boards. You need to use a bit higher density wood to help prevent denting and maintain a stronger bond to the higher density wood, it adds some rebound too. Real soft woods can have the fibers separate due to the material wanting to pop off.

So a metal board is really similar to a regular board, pretty much you just make the core thinner and replace the glass with aluminum.

Did he mention he built his own 172 AM board a few months ago so has a bit of knowledge on the subject:D

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In the bike industry quite people will take a cross country setup and start huckin the occasional ten footers with it. When the thing finally breaks its expected that you should get warrenty on it. Titanal may be the future as far as ride quality and cant wait to try it out,but if i rip out an edge on a rock i wont be expecting a warrenty on it because i think my traditional construction setup would have been able to take the hit/or have been repairable. We should be going in knowing its full capabilities and limitations.

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In the bike industry quite people will take a cross country setup and start huckin the occasional ten footers with it. When the thing finally breaks its expected that you should get warrenty on it. Titanal may be the future as far as ride quality and cant wait to try it out,but if i rip out an edge on a rock i wont be expecting a warrenty on it because i think my traditional construction setup would have been able to take the hit/or have been repairable. We should be going in knowing its full capabilities and limitations.

vapor, I'm in full agreement. My post was a bit of an inside joke based on all the broken board/I should get a new one free posts from last season.

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eh guy since you got a bullseye on your back, you betta take out an insurance policy on that metal or at least start wearing the orange carhart. how many goons have crashed into you the past few seasons??? that thing's gonna be a serving platter at the Bitter End by New Year's. The bling bling's gonna look wicked pissah on the deck of the Bunyan Room.

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tell me about it! last year i got cross checked more than i did in my two years the u.s.h.l. instead of having the team doc keep track of my stitches, i kept track with my reciepts from mike desantis and tognar "severe revere" tuning supply. www.tognar.com had everything for all the open heart surguries that i had to perform on my decks last year.

btw, just finished the base delam on the 162 coiler, it came out really well. i just hope im not using the three way vice all winter. so whens the the first team32 toast? ill be up for thanksgiving, hopefully i can get out for some turns? will you be around, or will you have your 1991 walpole high letterman jacket on, smoking butts in the back of your confederate flag covered f350 at the football pep rally. walpole high football RULES!

big duke 6

eh guy since you got a bullseye on your back, you betta take out an insurance policy on that metal or at least start wearing the orange carhart. how many goons have crashed into you the past few seasons??? that thing's gonna be a serving platter at the Bitter End by New Year's. The bling bling's gonna look wicked pissah on the deck of the Bunyan Room.
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  • 1 month later...
Go for the metal AM as you can carve it quite hard and pretend you are on an EX board but still have more versatility. Has to be the 12m radius though

Delivery times are approx Jan 1 as I did get more orders than expected , also put in a few too many days on the kites and with the golf clubs.

The board in question was the very first and we both rode it with the exactly same impressions. My biggest surprise was that it felt at least 1cm narrower than the 21.5 it is. I softened up the very front to give it better initiation than a standard AM and that worked well as it didn't seem to affect the crud blasting

You do give up a bit but gain more than you lose so personally I'll be sticking to the metal for a board like that especially if it is not going to see real abuse. The mid section remains a bit soft and the combination of that with the metal does remove a bit of liveliness.Crap, even if I was going to beat it up, I'd still go with the metal :D

Cheers, BV

bump'd cuz I can't wait to ride one o' these badboys :eplus2:

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After a short email conversation with John Deere, I should mention one observation:

Riding these puppies in soft groom - as in, first groom after a big dump - you're gonna have to back off. These babies want to find the hardpack that lies underneath the soft stuff. If there is no hardpack underneath, ride a little more surfy and stay off the nose and it works fine. I find that my standard construction AM 172 does work better in these conditions as it doesn't want to jump up on edge as aggressively and stays on top of the soft groom better. Then again when the groom is that soft (read: bumped up after 3 or 4 runs) I am usually riding the trees rather than carving anyway.

This characteristic has been common to all the metal decks I've ridden - avoid hard carving on soft groom. The AM handles it better than Prior metals or my Coiler NSR, but it's a tradeoff to be aware of. Anything you'd call "hero groom" it has been fine on for me.

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