Guest hugh r Posted February 28, 2004 Report Share Posted February 28, 2004 Hey guys... This is my first time on this site, so please bear with me! I realize that this site is geared towards hardbooters, but I hope that I can find some softboot answers! I am a long time skateboarder (for over 30 years) and have just recently picked up snowboarding. After a few real tough outings (I live in So Cal and the only close slope is Mt High... or as I call it Mt Ice) things are starting to come together for me. The last two times I went, there was actual "real" snow on the ground. I am working on carving the hill now (I don't fall too often and am capable of completing runs from the top of this hill without falling) My question on technique is: When switching from rail to rail, how committed should I be to the bottom flat of the board? Should I spend any significant amount of time on the flat between the time I switch direction? Also, I really like the look of the Arbor Woody boards and am considering purchasing one that is a 163Wide model. Will this be an apporpriate board for my size? I am 6'2" and weigh 235 lbs. Will this be an appropriate board for normally less than ideal conditions (hard pack snow and man made ice that Mt High calls snow) Any help on this will be appericiated!! Thanks, HR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike T Posted February 28, 2004 Report Share Posted February 28, 2004 Since you're here asking about carving technqiue I'mgoing to assume that yo are interested in carving in in soft boots. I'd like to give a shameless plug for a freeride board that you might like, the Donek. They have three freeride models - Incline Wide and Sasquatch. The longest ones in those models are 168, 169, and 170. The boards are built-to-order, www.donek.com. You can ask for one stiffened to meet the needs of your 235 pounds. I've got a Wide 161 in addition to my alpine boards, it's a very "solid" ride. They are exceptionally stiff torsionally which helps carvability, and will help a guy your size be stable. These boards have a bigger sidecut radius than most freeride boards of the same length so they will "feel" a bit longer. (The same will be true of many other boards people on this forum would recommend... we like freeride boards that are stable at speed and rail turns in general!) Oh, and the price is good too. I'm sure others will have plugs too. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
C5 Golfer Posted February 28, 2004 Report Share Posted February 28, 2004 I have ridden a lot of Arbors-- The Munoz in 166 and 170 and the regular Koa in 166 and 170, and their wide board. First, I agree with Bola that you do not need a wide. That wide guy was the worst riding of all boards.. very slow edge to edge and took too much effort and I am size 12. Go with the regular width but increase the size to a 166 Munoz (older name, can't remember the new name they use for this top of the line model) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jon G. Posted February 29, 2004 Report Share Posted February 29, 2004 I ride the Arbor 167 Wide with Cateks (plate bindings.) I am 6'2" and probably 230# with pack, water, sandwiches, etc. It works well on hard and soft snow, and I love it almost to a fault. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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