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came out of my td1's today


paappraiser

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Im ok just a little startled..

was carving really hard on my td1's and did a quick stop (fall on butt kinda stop) to keep from smearing a skiier. And my front foot came out...

How tight do you have your toe clips? I need 3 fingers and a little oomph.. If im feeling lazy Ill just use 2 hands, but I dont need to.. The boot is not deforming and it does not wiggle in etc.

Any suggestions to keep this from happening again. (I know dont stop..right?)

Im sure I set my bindings up right - Per the FAQ ...

Thanks

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My bud does it on his front binding only and his reason was if he hit a gate while racing it would knock the bail open on occasion.

It's secure for sure with the strap. I can't remember exactly how he wound it through but I would guess the strap is probably 8" or so and he wound it through the bail lever and under the toe of his boot. It would seem to be a cheap fix and it looked very effective for what you're describing.

I'm sure there must be a racer out there that could get you a pic.

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I thought I was was end up with a hernia the last time I rode my TD1s. I'd rather err on the side of a little too snug but man, tough to snap in.Hooking something in there to yank on would help alot.

Canuck, got any pics of the pink burner yet ? That day at Gunstock ruled on the Coiler.

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It's been my experience with Bomber STD's that you have to pay attention to the lever tension as time goes by, because the boot contact points on the lever begin to wear away the boot plastic, eventually making it slightly looser than when you first set it up. This is the only thing I don't like about Bombers. If there is to be a TD-3, I'd love to see some teflon inserts or similar inlaid into the lever at the boot contact points to prevent this. I've worn some rather large depressions in my hard boots from this problem.

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It's been my experience with Bomber STD's that you have to pay attention to the lever tension as time goes by, because the boot contact points on the lever begin to wear away the boot plastic, eventually making it slightly looser than when you first set it up. This is the only thing I don't like about Bombers. If there is to be a TD-3, I'd love to see some teflon inserts or similar inlaid into the lever at the boot contact points to prevent this. I've worn some rather large depressions in my hard boots from this problem.

Fin? Fin

Ive heard this before about plastic vs aluminum clips...(on the extreame carving site)

Wavechaser....you must ride ALOT for you to have some major depressions.

What cases boot out most of the time?

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I have a couple of Monoskis mounted with bail bindings. (older stuff). I don't have much experience with using the set-ups you Alpine riders use. In my experience with older Cateks, Sno-pro's LoFo's and a couple of others, I found the bolt, or whatever, in the toe clip is to adjust for various boot heights. If the lever goes too far beyond the fulcrum it becomes a little loose. So it might be very tight to get on and off but may not be properly adjusted with that height bolt.

Don

Feed the addiction...

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The heel pads that came with my suzukas were very soft, and my foot would wiggle around a bit when just standing around even after making my bindings super tight. I changed out the stock pads for the bomber urethane and have not had that problem since. It was a very comforting investment.

mario

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The heel pads that came with my suzukas were very soft, and my foot would wiggle around a bit when just standing around even after making my bindings super tight. I changed out the stock pads for the bomber urethane and have not had that problem since. It was a very comforting investment.

mario

hmm

I have a extra set of pads. Ill change them just incase.

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I have a couple of Monoskis mounted with bail bindings. (older stuff). I don't have much experience with using the set-ups you Alpine riders use. In my experience with older Cateks, Sno-pro's LoFo's and a couple of others, I found the bolt, or whatever, in the toe clip is to adjust for various boot heights. If the lever goes too far beyond the fulcrum it becomes a little loose. So it might be very tight to get on and off but may not be properly adjusted with that height bolt.

Don

Feed the addiction...

I understand....Ill check it out....Thanks.. I really should have thought of that!!! I have mine almost backed out 100% so they dont do anything..

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Same thing happened to me yesterday...

I was at the top of the hill so i did not get hurt. I decided to tighten the front toe bolts and did another ride. When at the chairs, looked again and it was still loosen.

Must say I stopped right away... :freak3:

What is strange is that the lever fits perfectly on my boot (Burton fire) but the toe bail loosens as i go down the hill...

I don't really want to deal with velcro but if it's the only solution......

Would lock tite help me solve the problem ?

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It's been my experience with Bomber STD's that you have to pay attention to the lever tension as time goes by, because the boot contact points on the lever begin to wear away the boot plastic, eventually making it slightly looser than when you first set it up. This is the only thing I don't like about Bombers. If there is to be a TD-3, I'd love to see some teflon inserts or similar inlaid into the lever at the boot contact points to prevent this. I've worn some rather large depressions in my hard boots from this problem.

Have you noticed that the td1 (dont know about td2) have a larger contactpoint vs other bindings? Mine also dig into the boot much more than my burtons... Ill take a photo if you dont see it. Dont know what it means but just making a statement

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