Jump to content
Note to New Members ×

Recommended Posts

Posted

I overheard a conversation between Bola and another person a couple years ago where Bola recommended the person not use TD1's on Burton boards. He said it was likely that the inserts would pull out (weak construction). I do not know how the Cateks compare to the TD1's, but I would bet they are pretty stiff and you might have the same problem.

For BC, I use a Steepwater Plow with Garmont GSM boots and SnowPro bindings. The SP's are significantly softer than the Cateks. I love me BC set-up; crampon and snowshoe friendly. Very comfortable and forgiving, which is what I want when playing in the steeps and rocks.

Zach Davis uses Garmont Mega Rides(?) with TD2's on a Donek. Run a search on Zach's name and see if he has posted any info on the topic.

Posted

I've been riding plates on FS boards for about 18 years...(don't do it anymore beacuse I really don't ride FS anymore)

Killed more than a few burtons in the process...

I'd say if you're gonna do it get a Donek Incline and tell Mr. Martin that you're riding in plates...he can reinforce the inserts.

Better board and about $100 cheaper than anything "decent" in the burton lineup

Posted

I placed a pair of Burton physics plates on a K2 Fatbob about 4 years ago. I was riding in Burton Wind boots. It was my first day on the snow and wanted to ride the softest board I had which was the K2. On my 3rd run about 1/2 way down Hunter Mountain (in NY) i felt my heel pull up. I stopped and looked down. I snapped the binding in half. The toe piece was still on the board while the heel piece was stuck to the bottom of my heel hanging off the board. I ride steep angles and the board flexed directly under the binding so much it snapped it. I would not recomend any one place hard bindings on a soft board.

Posted

I've ridden Burton plates on a Sims All Mountain 160 with ski boots back about 10 + years ago with no issues. Have done that trick to a couple of freeride type boards, just can't pull up what the others were. IMHO any freeride board of not too soft construction should handle Snowpros, F2 or Burton plates. And most likely a set of TD2's or OS1/2's also. I think that a boardercross board or an Incline reinforced would be the best, though.

Posted

I ride Catek World Cups on my Arbor Munoz for trees, crud and smaller powder days. The Munoz is a stiffish freeride board, and I haven't had any trouble. I weigh 150, am moderately aggressive, and have 20+ days on that setup.

Posted

I have only ever ridden plate bindings on ALL of my snowboards for 20 years- for backcountry, freeriding, and racing. Rad Air plates on old T-nut boards, Burton Race plates, Snow Pros, and now Catek OS-2's.

I run OS-2 base plates on all of my boards now, and just transfer the top plate to the board I'm using.

I use Winterstick ST's in the 162-172 range with these bindings for backcountry, and run Scarpa Spirit 3 boots.

These fit in well with my Dynafit binding approach skis, Verts climbing snowshoes, and Grivel crampons.

George

Posted

I swap between soft and plate bindings on my garage. It is however much stiffer and much solider construction than what you are proposing. that said it is a blast with plates. It carves well and because of the length and width it is a great powder board. It is also a custom board in the 400 - 500 dollar range wich makes it quite reasonably priced when compared to a mass produced burton.:biggthump I run a softer binding for off piste stuff too. an old burton binding or something with a little flex in it. TD2 with a suspension kit would probably do it as well. the catek is so ridgid that you will probably either pull the inserts or break the board at the binding area.:freak3:

Posted

I rode hard boots on freeride boards for about 4-5 years, never had trouble with inserts (Sims, Nitro, Division23) but did break a few bindings (Nitro, Burton). With stronger bindings, the inserts might have been the next thing to go, I dunno.

I now ride boards with a 23cm waist or narrower, and greatly prefer them for moguls and off-piste. I don't ride enough powder to want a wide board.

Unless you've got powder in mind, I don't think there's any advantage to using a board that is wider than your stance angles will allow. When I was riding 45/30 angles, going from a 25cm waist to a 23cm waist was a huge improvement, partly for the weight reduction but mostly I think because of the better leverage over the edge. Moving to a 21cm waist (and 55/50 angles) was another big improvement, for the same reasons, and I don't see a drawback to higher angles, even for "freeride" stuff like moguls, jumps, etc.

17cm waist felt just a little restrictive in bumps, though. My next board will be 19cm (hopefully any day now!).

Posted

thx vm guys for all the info. I was looking for a more forgiving board b/c sometimes I would ride in different terrain like moguls, non-groomed bumpy trails or powder in some off trail runs, and I did not enjoy as much riding my SL and GS board. Then I was wondering if I could simply use my plate setup on my Burton custom, but now I guess I should look for something like the Prior 4WD or ATV, and the Donek Axxes? . Any suggestions on these types of boards? thx again

Posted

I use Winterstick ST's in the 162-172 range with these bindings for backcountry.

crucible, got any pics of those boards ? I got a ST 159 on SAC a year ago and like it but, a little too short but good for tight trees.

As far as plates on FS boards, depends on the board and how hard you ride it. I delamm'd a Sims SoulCarve 159 years ago when my Nordica SBH's snapped at the ankle rivet and borrowed some blue burton reactors from the shop(running burton raceplates).

Point is, Nordicas were fine on that setup but as soon as I ran a beefier boot and rode like a nut(trying to impress the girl I was riding with at stowe)

SNAP OLA !

( you sure are hard on your equipment, she says :lol: )

You can really torque a board torsionally and possibly break the laminations when running hardboots and plates and reefing on your board. It's happened since on a few other Sims boards but the 169 T Sims lasted the longest before delamms.I don't even deal with Sims anymore due to piss poor customer service.

bottom line, what Tex said,Prior 4WD or ATV, and the Donek Axxes-you can't go wrong with a board built for plates. Ride 'em HARD tho ! :eplus2:

Posted
Has anyone here tried to ride a freestyle/freeride board with a hard boots setup when riding in backcountry or all around the mountain or in powder and moguls? I have a pair of cateks Olympics binding and Raichle hard boots, would it be ok to use this setup on a freestyle/freeride board like the Burton Custom

http://www.burton.com/ProductDetail.aspx?pid=7

Many thx

F2 Speedcross 165 - great ride and perfect for what you are talking about...price amazing, but brand new BOL'er...dot the I's and cross the T's.

http://www.bomberonline.com/VBulletin/showthread.php?t=14054

Posted

I don't like hardboots on snowboards above around 24.5cm middle width as I feel then a hard softboot with a 3strap binding does much better. It's all with the angles - softboots work great up to 25-30 on front foot, hardboots work better at 30° and above. I ripped caps with softboots too (however a titanal Base boardercross Proflex binding with 3. strap), inserts never came out. Sandwich softboards seem better to me. Note that the freeride/freestyle F2 boards do not come from Elan but from another producer, IMO offering ****ty quality. I ripped 3 in one season afterwards they send me a custom one in order not to rip the caps open all the time (6 years ago - and they had quality problems by that time).

For freeriding you want a very soft nose, and generally soft board, so for me it's allways freeride board and wide board for softbootcarving seperately. makes no sense to try to find a one fits all board here. A speedcross would be great for softbootcarving IMO, for powder it sucks.

In LaGrave France actually loads of hardbooters on swallowtails can be seen. It sometimes goes so far that they give people on soft setups strange looks.:p

Just never use Stepins on a soft setup with hardboots. You need the lateral flex. Burton Race Plates or other soft plate bindings are great in that concern. Actually my softboot setup provides far less forward lean and flex than my locked AF600.

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.



  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
×
×
  • Create New...