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New board, should I wax it?


Guest Mera'din
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Guest Mera'din

So I just got my new board. It is a burton baron with the WFO sintered base. Supposed to be pretty fast and gone through a good waxing process at the factory. In the past I have always hotwaxed/scraped my boards about 5 times before riding. I really would like to see what this board is like out of the box.

Can I ride it a day and then do my hotwax/scrape procedure without any ill effects? It seems like the boards that I have done the hotscrape procedure to take wax a little better and stay slicker longer. On board ran dry on me after a day of boarding and I had to literally walk down to the gondola.

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Now that the thread originating question has been answered, I will not take it off topic a bit. :)

Not Wax -- anyone use it as an overlay? I'm planning on hotwaxing in the CH wax of the day and then buffing in (e.g. corking w/o spending money on a bespoke corking tool) a layer of Not Wax if it's in the least bit a wet/humid day.

Heading to Snowshoe Moutain Jan1...looking at the temp there now leads me to believe it's going to be rather wet... :mad: :(

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ZARDOZ, strips you base with some waxes, acts as a solvent I think

if I use it my base gets bare and dry fast

otherwise ruins wax job that would of lasted a day or two on the hill

zardoz is no faster than a proper soft wax with silicone that can be rubbed on, holmenkol makes a fine one that needs to be mixed with the yellow swix and thats far better and lasts longer and does not dry out your base

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Wax?... Sure! Wax is great and absolutely necessary. But what about the edges? Are we to assume that Burton has recently started sending out boards with the minimum 1/1 bevel and a detuned nose and tail? Of course not! Fully expect that board to be edge high (or 0/0 at best) and have a buffed on coat of crap wax that will last a run or two. No offense to Burton... but I only know of one builder who even comes close to sending out a board that's ready to ride out of the box. Take any new board you get to a real pro to get the base structured and edge bevels set... and at the bare minimum do three hot waxes before you ride if there is not a hot box available at your tune shop.

This is manditory just like your car needs motor oil to operate properly

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Now that the thread originating question has been answered, I will not take it off topic a bit. :)

Not Wax -- anyone use it as an overlay? I'm planning on hotwaxing in the CH wax of the day and then buffing in (e.g. corking w/o spending money on a bespoke corking tool) a layer of Not Wax if it's in the least bit a wet/humid day.

Heading to Snowshoe Moutain Jan1...looking at the temp there now leads me to believe it's going to be rather wet... :mad: :(

If the snow is wet then use a graphite wax. Hopefully your base is black.

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