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110/220V

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It can be done, most people flush mount the inserts to the Ptex base. But there is also a way to mount the T-nut further into the board and fill the hole in the base. You have to have the right base material and under base material. I actually tried this on a really old Nitro 163 board (circa 1985), converting from a 5 hole fixed location binding mount, to a 4x4 or 3D hole pattern. After trying several epoxies I found some material specifically designed to fix ski bases, you put PTEX over it to return the base to normal. But its a fragile repair.

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You can get tnuts with ptex already on them. you just have to drill to the appropriate depth. Also in a pinch superglue and graphite powder work well enough to cover such a divot. sand the base after and the graphite soaks up enough wax to suffice. good way to work on a rock board etc. not the best for the carver.

although..... shouldn't we only be using the lateral inch or so of each side of the base? the middle shouldn't touch the snow enough to matter!:lol: :biggthump

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I am not sure if this is true about all the early Burton boards, but a lot of the boards I used to work on at that time had the same t-bolts. Burton used to make them like that. I know this, as I used to ride a lot of these boards back in the day.

T-bolts have gone away as Burton developed better inserts, but other board companies used t-bolting for a long time. I used them to fix pulled bindings on GNU and Lamar boards all day long.

I think the auction is a good indicator of this era of board construction and design. It would be neat to ride one of these old monsters to rember how tough it was to start out back then.

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