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New Road Bicycle - need info


C5 Golfer

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C5, :lol: :lol: :lol:

How long have you been out of road bikes? Campy and Shimano have upped .

I am glad I could offer you some humor -- I was going to post a picture of my present bike so you knew from where I am starting but I am having second thoughts because you'd probably bust a gut on that one and since we are close to winter carving season I do not want to injure you!

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I can actually reccomend an EXCELLENT website for all your dealings. Its at www.competitivecyclist.com , unlike most sites, they actually take the time to write up a review of all the gear they sell. It isn't always a complete on-bike review, but they at least take the time to give their thoughts on the product. Campy shifters are nice, but I've got my eyes on these: http://www.competitivecyclist.com/za/CCY?PAGE=BUY_PRODUCT_STANDARD&PRODUCT.ID=3351&CATEGORY.ID=36&MODE=&TFC=TRUE they simplify the shifting process alot by allowing you to use one lever for both upshifts and downshifts, shaving better than 30 moving parts in the process...COOL! Im a gearhead :o what can I say.

Check out the rest of their stuff, they have some REALLY nice stuff. They do mountain and tri gear as well, which I think is nice.

As for your old bike; before I bought my giant earlier this year I was riding a 1966 Raleigh Sprint 10 speed. 5 cogs in the back, 2 in the front, none were straight. The thing must have weighed 30#...made me into a strong climber though :biggthump .

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I am glad I could offer you some humor -- I was going to post a picture of my present bike so you knew from where I am starting but I am having second thoughts because you'd probably bust a gut on that one and since we are close to winter carving season I do not want to injure you!

C5, thanks for the concern of my health as we enter this carving season. :biggthump:biggthump By all means, post some pics of your retro ride. I always enjoy seeing some old school stuff, downtube shifters, a pump peg and maybe some toe clips. In this day and age of Shimano STI and Campy Ergo power it is always nice to see the vintage stuff.

Ya know I enjoy the old school stuff myself, currently one of my rides is a Bontrager Race w/ Suntour thumb shifters and cantilever brakes. Every time I bring that bike out to the trails there is always some comment about the frame or the thumb shifters. I run thumbies on all my mtn bikes!!

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C5, thanks for the concern of my health as we enter this carving season. :biggthump:biggthump By all means, post some pics of your retro ride. I always enjoy seeing some old school stuff, downtube shifters, a pump peg and maybe some toe clips. In this day and age of Shimano STI and Campy Ergo power it is always nice to see the vintage stuff.

Ya know I enjoy the old school stuff myself, currently one of my rides is a Bontrager Race w/ Suntour thumb shifters and cantilever brakes. Every time I bring that bike out to the trails there is always some comment about the frame or the thumb shifters. I run thumbies on all my mtn bikes!!

Tell you what Volvo guy with fancy modern day bike- you post a picture of your old school Volvo, square box with 4 tires, 4 cylinders, 0-60 in 2.3 minutes, and then I wll post a picture of my old school 2 wheeler that still does pretty damn good. :lol: :lol:

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OVR, I sold my Bridgestone RB1 to one of the local commuters (30 mile each way so I know it went to a good home) and it still had 7 speed Suntour and the pump peg. I also have a Bontrager race vintage 96 (Rapidfire) that I converted to a SS but the old Judy XC shock is always good for a laugh. I got rid of the RB1 to fund my CX bike which I ride to work along with the SS (Less Maintenance). Al, Bob has a great point with the Seven bikes and you wont regret spending the money (but if you ride it in the rain it is tantamount to riding your Coiler on a rock day ;) ).

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Ya know I enjoy the old school stuff myself, currently one of my rides is a Bontrager Race w/ Suntour thumb shifters and cantilever brakes. Every time I bring that bike out to the trails there is always some comment about the frame or the thumb shifters. I run thumbies on all my mtn bikes!!

I'm also a little old school when it comes to biking sometimes. I would kill to have Shimano make 8 or 9 speed thumbshifters like the last generation XT. XT thumbshifters were among the best shifters ever (along with my X-Ray Grip-Shifts on my current mountain bike:biggthump). I got some used thumbshifters for my city bike around 93 and they broke around 2002 (one was the mount, the other the lever). And they broke because of metal fatigue, no impact. I have to say that on that particular bike, I worked as a bike messenger for 2 years (60 to 100 km a day) and I commuted 3000+km every year.

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Derf, I am sure you are aware of this but XT thumbshifters can run with a 8 speed drivetrain, that is what I am using them on. Shimano built the thumbies with a hiddden click that allows them to be compatible with 8 speed. Two of my bikes are set up with Shimano thumibies and the Bontrager is set up with Suntour XC Pro thumbies, all bikes are 8 speed. The XT are also compatible with 9 speed but you will have to run the shifters in the friction mode, not the SIS mode.

If you want nine speed thumb shifters, buy a set of bar end shifters and then get yourself some Paul's Components thumbie mounts.

http://www.paulcomp.com/

First time I have ever heard of thumbies breaking down, those things are bullet proof.

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OVR, I sold my Bridgestone RB1 to one of the local commuters (30 mile each way so I know it went to a good home) and it still had 7 speed Suntour and the pump peg. I also have a Bontrager race vintage 96 (Rapidfire) that I converted ).

No pump peg on my bike.. no water bottle holder so I printed one on my 3D Printer. It is a odd looking bike since it is a long neck where the fork goes. 27" frame with 1 1/4 x 27 inch tires. I have a picture but waiting for the Volvo guy's photo so we can make fun of him first. :biggthump

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Derf, I am sure you are aware of this but XT thumbshifters can run with a 8 speed drivetrain, that is what I am using them on. Shimano built the thumbies with a hiddden click that allows them to be compatible with 8 speed. Two of my bikes are set up with Shimano thumibies and the Bontrager is set up with Suntour XC Pro thumbies, all bikes are 8 speed. The XT are also compatible with 9 speed but you will have to run the shifters in the friction mode, not the SIS mode.

I knew that, Kona did it for a while when 8 speed came out. I tried it once, but didn't like the "hidden" position, too far to the front because it just went out of the first hole (if you dissambled an XT thumbshifter, you know what I mean). Are the 8 speed Suntour XC Pro thumbshifters Shimano compatible? Kona used them also on their bikes, but I don't know how good it worked. Last time I checked, they were even harder to find than the XT thumbshifters, which are already hard to find. As for the 9 speed, I would imagine that because the spacing is not the same.

If you want nine speed thumb shifters, buy a set of bar end shifters and then get yourself some Paul's Components thumbie mounts.

http://www.paulcomp.com/

You just made my day, thanks!:biggthump I'll look into it at my LBS next time I go. I don't know if they are still open, they close for the winter. It seems a little expnsive though when you add the price of the bar end shifters themselves. It might come to about double the price of the SRAM Attack 9 speed shifters that I am presently using. I love thumbshifters, but it also depends on the price. But like I said, I will seriously look into it.

First time I have ever heard of thumbies breaking down, those things are bullet proof.

Like I said in my post, I used them a lot. I live in a city with lots of hills, so lots of shifting. And as I also said, I got them used in the first place. I was surprised when they broke (almost at the same time) but not that surprised because I know that metal fatigue can do that.

On a sidenote, if you like oldschool, my GF's bike is a Specialized CrossRoads hybrid with Suntour XCT components and Wishbone shifters.:D

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Tell you what Volvo guy with fancy modern day bike- you post a picture of your old school Volvo, square box with 4 tires, 4 cylinders, 0-60 in 2.3 minutes, and then I wll post a picture of my old school 2 wheeler that still does pretty damn good. :lol: :lol:

Looks like Volvo Guy likes to make fun but can't take it :lol: :lol: so here is my current bike photo. Yes, it is old school but is in great shape for a ~25 yr old bike. So all you that are old school bike nuts , lets see your photos.

post-53-141842221332_thumb.jpg

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Looks like Volvo Guy like to make fun but can't take it :lol: :lol: so here is my current bike photo. Yes, it is old school but is in great shape for a ~25 yr old bike. So all you others that are old school bike nuts , lets see your photos.

Here is my mountain bike, a 1994 Rocky Mountain Équipe, upgraded with a Rock Shox Judy XC (from 2000) and V-brakes, on my homemade bike rack.

DCP_0006.sized.jpg

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OK, OK, C5 give me a few days t snap a pic of the Volvo, the running one, it is a "81 Bertone Coupe, or aka 262C. Volvo sent the cars to Italy and had them whack the top off by a few inches, so essentially it is a chopped top Volvo, the non-running one is a 72 Volvo 142 E. I don't have that one close by to snap a pic but I will get one soon enough.

Looking at your bike, I can understand you looking for a new ride. That is a great old school bike but when you move into a new bike you will be shedding probably 10 lbs or more by moving into a newer bike. Have you decided on what you are getting yet? You also might want to look at Gunnar frames, made by Waterford, a quality builder!!! Keep that steel mojo alive!!! That saddle angle makes my testicles hurt!!!

In the meantime here is a pic of my '93 Bontrager Race, upgraded with a 2000 Judy SL and the Suntour thumbies

IMG_0579.jpg

IMG_0578.jpg

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into a new bike you will be shedding probably 10 lbs or more by moving into a newer bike.

]

Thanks Volvo guy, my current ride weighs 25 lbs - steel frame - how much to these new road bikes weigh? I maybe be naive here but I do not understand if I weigh 215 lbs what a 5 lb savings in bike is going to do for me. Help me out here. That is only a 2% drop in total weight going up that long hill.

I look forward to your photos -- I have an old school car too .. 1980 280SL Mercedes - all stock and runs great and is in great shape- 4 Speed - mechanical fuel injected DOHC straight 6. I have 179K miles on it now and will probably be buried in it when I die. I like my new cars too ( tire pressure monitors, run flat tires, backup sensors, rain sensors, less polution, 6/7 speed trannys, speed senstive volume, heated lumbar support, dynamic headlights and so on ) but I sure like the simplicity of the 1980ish autos. I'll post a photo of it in a day or so.

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Thanks Volvo guy, my current ride weighs 25 lbs - steel frame - how much to these new road bikes weigh? I maybe be naive here but I do not understand if I weigh 215 lbs what a 5 lb savings in bike is going to do for me. Help me out here. That is only a 2% drop in total weight going up that long hill.
For that matter, what other differences are there between a $500 frame and a $3000 frame that your average recreational rider is going to be able to detect and/or care about?
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For that matter, what other differences are there between a $500 frame and a $3000 frame that your average recreational rider is going to be able to detect and/or care about?

My desire is to have a frame fitted to me for increased comfort and also to reduce road vibration I feel in my arms on a long ride. My guess I can not do that for $500 out of pocket.

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Not meaning to be belligerent, I'm genuinely curious here. What can a custom-sized frame do for you fit-wise, that you can't do with a properly selected stock size frame and some fiddling with bars and seatposts? If vibration is an issue, do shock-mounted bars or seats work or does that introduce too much slop?

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Not meaning to be belligerent, I'm genuinely curious here. What can a custom-sized frame do for you fit-wise, that you can't do with a properly selected stock size frame and some fiddling with bars and seatposts? If vibration is an issue, do shock-mounted bars or seats work or does that introduce too much slop?

Not even thinking you were belligerant at all... I originally posted this subject to stimulate this type of discussion. I see your point and from my limited experience sounds correct. I am hoping to be come more informed so that when I go into my local bike shop I am armed with these type of questions.

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Thanks. I often walk into a bike (or any other shop), look at all the stuff and find myself getting seduced by all the cool toys. My only bike riding is a 15 minute commute to work and the occasional slow cruise with my 11 year old. But those high-end road bikes are so sexy! I've never been on a race course and prefer bumps to groomed but those titanal-topsheeted super-G boards? Bring 'em on! Sometimes I find myself wanting to buy stuff that, 10 minutes previous, I had never heard of.

What I'm saying is, a realistic viewpoint of my needs and budget is often warranted. My wife is happy to supply such a view...

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If it's comfort in a road bike that you seek, the Specialized Roubaix Elite may be what you are looking for. I think they list for about $2K, but you might find one for less now. It comes with an Ultegra/105 mix of components and is available with triple crank.

It's got elastomer inserts in key frame and seatpost locations.

I have a friend who rides an older model and is convinced it dampens vibrations noticeably.

Find a bike shop and go for a test ride. I located some reviews here:

http://www.roadbikereview.com/cat/latest-bikes/road-bike/specialized-bicycle/PRD_290735_5668crx.aspx#reviews

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Thanks.

What I'm saying is, a realistic viewpoint of my needs and budget is often warranted. My wife is happy to supply such a view...

Well, now you bring a "wife" into the bike equation and all bets are off. I am not married so spending money with permission is not something to which I can relate. :1luvu:

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My desire is to have a frame fitted to me for increased comfort and also to reduce road vibration I feel in my arms on a long ride. My guess I can not do that for $500 out of pocket.

For the vibration issue, I suggest you stay away from aluminium frames and get a steel or titanium frame. A carbon frame may be good, but it won't last as long. But it may just be that you don't have a good position and that is what is causing the incomfort in your arms (it is very common).

For the fitting issue, it's a little more complex. Like someone here mentionned, you get a good sized stock frame and play with the stem length and rise and play with the seat fore and aft. In my experience, the most critical dimensions on a frame are the head and seat angles and the top tube length (and of course the seat tube length or standover height, but that's a given). Custom frames are good when you want specific proportions that fall out of the standard ones or if you like like long or short frame, steep or shallow angles, or if you have long torso/short legs or vice-versa. In essence you have to know what you like and what you want. Fitting a bike for comfort is one thing, choosing the geometry according to the handling you want is another.

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Not meaning to be belligerent, I'm genuinely curious here. What can a custom-sized frame do for you fit-wise, that you can't do with a properly selected stock size frame and some fiddling with bars and seatposts? If vibration is an issue, do shock-mounted bars or seats work or does that introduce too much slop?

I find that a shock seatpost requires a MUCH higher level of skill and pedaling technique (read: Almost perfect pedal motion) to be anywhere near as effecient as a solid seatpost. That's where the carbon bits I reccomended come in (mind you I'm not reccomending a carbon frame). They absorb alot of the vibration and shock associated with riding on less than perfect roads, with very little in the way of effeciency loss.

Explanation: If your pedaling at a reasonable cadence (say...75bpm), and your technique isn't great and almost perfectly round, you will introduce a bounce into the seatpost, which is just wasting energy that you could be using elsewhere, such as pulling back up on the pedals, going an extra 5 miles, ect.

Perhaps a rubber washer between the stem and headset would reduce bar vibes without any noticable loss. hm....

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