Jump to content
Note to New Members ×

Catek Olympic Spider plate


Recommended Posts

The moment some of you have been waiting for has come: I got a digital camera (my friend's old one) and took some pictures of the mod I did to my Catek OS1 last winter. I call it the Spider plate.

It is essentially a plate that goes between the set screws and the disk. It prevents the screws from digging in the disks. I got the idea when I saw the OS2 bindings. It is made out of stainless steel, so it is as hard as the screws.

What it does is distribute the force over a wider area on the disk, preventing the screws from digging in. Since the OS1 were not made for that, I have to tighten the set screws quite hard or else the top wll rotate. It happened once on the first day I tried it, but after tightening the screws a little more, no problem. I have some short plates (3/8" thick compared to 1/2" for the long plate), so they bend a little, but not too much. I was told it is normal, even regular OS1 do it.

Here are some pictures:




Link to comment
Share on other sites

I work in a place specialized in sheet metal, so I have access to an Amada CNC punch and a sheet metal folding machine. It would be pretty hard to cut stainless steel with a jigsaw, especially a small piece like that at the thickness used (16 gauge = 1/16"). You could try aviation snips (I think they are called that), but on material a little thinner, like 18 or 20 gauge (0,050" and 0,037" respectively).

I plan on trying thicker and thinner materials on other prototypes this winter to see what difference it can make.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm confused.....what problem is your spider trying to solve?

A couple of problems (that have been fixed in the OS2).

1) The huge holes created by the screws. Other than being ugly, the holes are not practical when you decide to change your angle by 3 degrees and the two holes beside the original hole are almost unusable. With my plate, no digging in.

2) The "settling effect". When you first set your angles, the screws have not yet dug in the disk. You do a couple of runs, they dig in, you tighten them, and so on for one or more times. With my plate, no digging in so no settling effect.

I think it is something to do with dimpling the plate and having 3 degree adjustments... :freak3:

Yes for the dimpling, no for the 3 degrees. 3 degrees is enough for me, I used to have Burton plates.


Imho, this solution is rather arguable... You solving one problem but you’re creating another one... Plates aren’t the only thing flexing there.. Your center disks are really going bananas as well...

The plate is bending because of the leverage: the screws are 2" from the center and the top plate is 3/8". The disks don't bend as much because the screws are 1" from the center and the disk is around 3/8" thick, so half the leverage. The pressure points stay the same, and when riding, the forces exerted are quite big, and the disk are made to withstand this.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

  • 2 weeks later...

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Restore formatting

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Create New...