DiveBomber Posted October 29, 2006 Report Share Posted October 29, 2006 Some times i feel like i want to put hard boots on my freeride board. I can carve fairly well on it, its alot more comfortable. I almost feel like I want a super stiff board thats wide like a Freeride board, something that makes it feel like your riding powder on hard pack. I seem to recall old burton catalogs where it seemed like guys were riding big mtn on hard boots and freeride boards. or atleast their front foot was like at 40+ deg Im going to try to try out some stuff, but until then, im just thinking out loud, so I can get closer to figuring out what exactly I need. the the boards i have now are 180 wide Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
DiveBomber Posted October 29, 2006 Author Report Share Posted October 29, 2006 also does a wider board need slacker binding angles? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D-Sub Posted October 29, 2006 Report Share Posted October 29, 2006 get an axis or 4wd or coiler am. perfect middle ground. or an incline. as for angles...Im of the "toes and heels on the edges" school. others do it differently Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Pow Posted October 29, 2006 Report Share Posted October 29, 2006 Im not sure they need lower binding angles, but its nice that they allow them! but basically im with D-Sub on the binding angles, the idea is to get the toe and heel as close to the edge as possible (allowing for maximum control) without causing toe or heel drag. so if you set up your bindings like that, then you will need lower angles to achieve the perfect position. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Fleaman Posted October 29, 2006 Report Share Posted October 29, 2006 I went from a 19cm coiler Pr to a 23cm coiler AM and the first time I took the am out, It felt so weird. It took forever for the edge transition to take place. I almost fell a few times. After an hour, I was in tune with the board width and I loved it. It makes the board so much more versatile. It floats better and I can reduce my angles (not much though maybe 5 degrees.) I am done with skinny boards. My new Coiler(Dec delivery) will be a RC with 21 cm waist and an AM style tail. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave* Posted October 29, 2006 Report Share Posted October 29, 2006 From top to bottom 25cm waist 23cm waist 21.5 waist I run a 27.5-28 mondo boot, on the top board with front angles of about 48degree, rear 40degree, that gives me some underhang on the front n rear foot. The other two are steeper with same stance width and degrees of splay, I just set the boots up for no overhang at the edge, basically whatever angles they end up at with 8 degrees of difference front to back.. Keeping same stance and splay allows me to switch boards with minimal "transition time " to a different board width. The slackest board angles I run now are 45 front/37 rear even if I have underhang ( just a bit harder to lever up on edge) Dave* Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted October 29, 2006 Report Share Posted October 29, 2006 I ride the same angles regardless of board, within reason. I've got them dialed in to how I like them. But when I go to a really wide pow board, I bring them down a bit. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boyracer Posted October 29, 2006 Report Share Posted October 29, 2006 Hey Dave*, which model of Prior is that? (25cm waisted one) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
D-Sub Posted October 29, 2006 Report Share Posted October 29, 2006 mmmmm 23.5cm waisted AWD 182 (middle): Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dave* Posted October 29, 2006 Report Share Posted October 29, 2006 Its an old Perry Bizyk bx deck, Chris made about 2-3 of them, its one of my favorites, it does it all well. I am thinking of getting another built. middle deck is a custom 171 atv bottom is a stock 179 4x4 . Dave* Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dr D Posted October 31, 2006 Report Share Posted October 31, 2006 the idea is to get the toe and heel as close to the edge as possible (allowing for maximum control) without causing toe or heel drag. so if you set up your bindings like that, then you will need lower angles to achieve the perfect position. Absolutely true. I ride my freeride board with the heels and toes to the edges. I alternate between hard and soft setups on it some as well. It carves beautifully both ways and the key is definitely edge control more than your usual angles. I ride a garage with an extra layer of carbon so its much stiffer than the usual freeride board. It has a progressive or elliptical side cut rather than the usual circular variety and I believe that enhances the ride as well. I have added power straps to soft boots and even canted the back binding with a cant plate all with excellent results so play with your soft setup some as well. And try a set of softer plates on the free ride board. some old burtons or something with a little flex. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr.E Posted November 15, 2006 Report Share Posted November 15, 2006 Back from the dead with this one- Every few years i start to wonder if everything I've been doing is good for me. This includes binding angles on multiple boards. Last season i tried backing my angles down and found that, as expected, I didn't like it and felt like I lost control on turn initiation. I ride about 55 to 60 front and 50-55 rear, with the expetion of my pow boards that I turn the back doen to about 45. Assuming most of us are riding Bombers and Cateks, does it really matter if our toes are over the edge? In reality, its still the size of the disc doing the pressuring in the same 5-6" radius, regardless of binding angle. Now, Burtons, Pro-flexes and other direct mount bindings may be diffrent, but with the burly interface, i can't see how it makes a diffrence, nor can I feel it in regards to edge pressure. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
willywhit Posted November 16, 2006 Report Share Posted November 16, 2006 it's only 2 weeks old and brings up a great point. ( see, DiveBomber isn't worthless afterall) wider carving boards make alot of sense for riding on crowded weekends etc. Also, when you're learning to carve, it's much easier to transition from a twintip and shallower angles. Going straight to 18 cm wide and steep angles is quite a jump, esp since hard boots are a whole different feel from softies. I've seen it happen many times. Change one thing at a time. If you can run hardboots on your twintip, do it, get used to it. Start to C A R V E turns instead of skidding.Working your way up to a skinny board and laying it over takes time, patience and practice. Alot of people try it and go back to what they're used to. " I want to rip turns like you do " Well, that will take some time. I've been looking to get a 23 cm wide 176 stiffy to step it up from my PureCarve Maverick 175 to get more like a Sword ride. Dave*'s 3 boards are a great benchmark for the wider carving sleds. It's alot easier to recover on a wider board than on a 180 cm balance beam board with 60* angles. just my $.02 ;) and Dave*, btw....Nihilists! I mean, say what you like about the tenets of National Socialism, Dude, at least it's an ethos. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Istvan Posted November 16, 2006 Report Share Posted November 16, 2006 Welcome to the club.... check out the Swoard our the Virus ME109... Cheers Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nils Posted November 16, 2006 Report Share Posted November 16, 2006 Dave: 3.5cm pintail!!!?? really I assume the board is nice in straight lines in pow, but how does it handle narrow turns on the hardsnow...? Average pintail(taper) of the swallowtails is 1.5-1.8cm usually... more and its powder only, less and its better on the hard.. N Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arion Posted November 16, 2006 Report Share Posted November 16, 2006 Nils: I guess that Dave was talking about the waist widths of three separate boards :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peter_x Posted November 16, 2006 Report Share Posted November 16, 2006 does it really matter if our toes are over the edge? In reality, its still the size of the disc doing the pressuring in the same 5-6" radius, regardless of binding This is something I have given some thought to... I think the only thing that matters as far as leverage is concerned is over/underhang (and binding angles). I don't think the center disk or any other interface on the boot/binding matters. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lonerider Posted November 16, 2006 Report Share Posted November 16, 2006 This is something I have given some thought to... I think the only thing that matters as far as leverage is concerned is over/underhang (and binding angles). I don't think the center disk or any other interface on the boot/binding matters.Having more riser matters as you get more leverage. I believe that overhang/underhang is still more important than riser or where the edge of the center disk sits. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
peter_x Posted November 16, 2006 Report Share Posted November 16, 2006 Yes, height also matters... but not how/where the baseplate bolts onto the cant disk or stuff like that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
nils Posted November 16, 2006 Report Share Posted November 16, 2006 damn must have been blinded by the snowforecasts ;)...thnx for clearing this :) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.