Mike T Posted January 23, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2009 Same thing happened to my Track 700's. I'm using a T-nut from the hardware store and some washers and short bolt... works great. Will take some pix this weekend. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yyzcanuck Posted January 23, 2009 Report Share Posted January 23, 2009 Mike, DeeLuxe is working on new ankle pivot hardware for the AF shells. Hopefully it'll be available for next season (if not sooner). Some discussions of changing the materials. Meanwhile, take a look at the attached file for a quick fix. The problem is just getting your hands on the medial pivot components to make the new lateral pivot! The problem with the lateral rivet when broken is that the original replacement parts need a special anvil/swage to roll over the rivet head. So... go with a medial pivot (cant adjuster) and t-nut to make the fix as shown in the 3rd image . Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike T Posted January 23, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 23, 2009 Thanks Dave - to be honest my hardware store parts work much, much better than the original parts. I post a pic soon. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yyzcanuck Posted January 23, 2009 Report Share Posted January 23, 2009 Whatever works for you. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jeffrey Day Posted January 23, 2009 Report Share Posted January 23, 2009 Hey Dave, Any idea if Deeluxe would be working on a more durable canting mechanism for the SB/Track 325/225? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chewy Posted January 23, 2009 Report Share Posted January 23, 2009 someone should sell aftermarket hinge sets. pimp you DeeLuxe Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike T Posted January 24, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 24, 2009 Here's what I've done on both Suzukas and my not-so-new Track 700s. I went to remove the McGyverage from my old Suzukas and found that the t-nut and bolt were frozen together on one side, the other side I was able to get loose but threading it back together was difficult afterward. I can see how the same stresses that tore the rivet apart would have done that. In any case the fix pictured below outlasted the original parts on my Suzukas by a long shot... 20 riding days on the Suzukas and the rivets were blown, probably 80 days and my fix was still holding up. And it doesn't even look that bad. The nylon washer, I just file away until it's a good fit. Took me 5 minutes for the pair. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
newcarver Posted January 25, 2009 Report Share Posted January 25, 2009 I made a quick fix on my boot by cutting down a washer to fit in the 1/2 moon recess. The hole in the middle of it for the screw is slightly larger than the threaded shaft screw diameter which leave a little bit of slop to it. Will this hurt anything if I leave it this way for a while? Was in a jam and wanted to ride real bad so just made do with what I could find in the garage. I'm going to try and find a piece of something to take up the slack between the washer and screw. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mike T Posted January 25, 2009 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2009 I made a quick fix on my boot by cutting down a washer to fit in the 1/2 moon recess. The hole in the middle of it for the screw is slightly larger than the threaded shaft screw diameter which leave a little bit of slop to it. Will this hurt anything if I leave it this way for a while? Was in a jam and wanted to ride real bad so just made do with what I could find in the garage. I'm going to try and find a piece of something to take up the slack between the washer and screw. I suspect that it'll get you through. The problem would be if the two shell pieces (upper and lower) are damaging each other, you'd probably be able to figure that out pretty easily. BTW in the fix I showed above, the T-nut shaft fits nice and snug into the hole on the inside part of the shell. But note that the T-nuts are prongless, so the replacement parts can still act as a joint. I looked on McMaster-Carr and didn't see anything like what I have... maybe I'm using the wrong terminology... if someone knows, please provide a link. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
www.oldsnowboards.com Posted January 26, 2009 Report Share Posted January 26, 2009 I suspect that it'll get you through. The problem would be if the two shell pieces (upper and lower) are damaging each other, you'd probably be able to figure that out pretty easily. BTW in the fix I showed above, the T-nut shaft fits nice and snug into the hole on the inside part of the shell. But note that the T-nuts are prongless, so the replacement parts can still act as a joint. I looked on McMaster-Carr and didn't see anything like what I have... maybe I'm using the wrong terminology... if someone knows, please provide a link. BINGO. Like Mike said. I would not want to have threads from a bolt banging or abrading again the plastic for very long, it would tend to eat out the hole. Leaving permanent damages. It needs a "Sleave" of some type, like the t-nut Mike mentions. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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