spretetsky

Sale pending for the whole package. I will update on the weekend.

Scratch, bomber tells me "user does not want to receive direct emails. you can email me (spretetsky at yahoo dot com) , and let me know the following: - are you interested in the board, bindings with kit, or everything? - Shipping address or at list city state and zip, so I can tell you shipping price. - If you want you can email me you number. That way I can respond faster.

replys sent. I checked on internatinal shipping, and it is a pain in the ??? - extra forms, plus I cannot get an estimate... so US shipping only. Sorry.

Update: no responce from the Catek buyer after what looked like a "done deal", so... everything is still up for sale.

Sale pending for Cateks. Board is still up for grabs.

Sent emails to all you guys. board and bindings are still available.

$140 - Burton Factory Prime 173cm (no bindings) 20cm waist. Good condition. Top has minor scratches, but still looks great. Edges have plenty of metal left with no damage. Base has some scratches but nothing deep enough to need repair and no past repairs that I can see. $160 - Catek World Cup bindings (long plate) with second board kit and extra hoe/heel blocks Good condition.These have infinite amount of adjustability by means of 4 adjustment screws, with no need for Cant/lift disks. All mounting hardware is included - good for 3 or 4 hole mounting These bindings will fit all boot sizes (Catek made thinner/softer short plates to fit 10 and under size boots only) - Second board kit (not pictured, as I found it after taking all the pics) is an extra set of base disks with rubber rings and all the mounting hardware. This allows a quick remounting to second board with just unscrewing one big king bolt per binding. - "Olympic style" toe/heel blocks and original triangular blocks are included. (see pics. one of the pictures shows original blocks) I will sell everything above as a package for $280 Shipping is extra Located in Santa Rosa, CA. <br> <br> <img src="http://images9.fotki.com/v448/photos/7/79987/7730214/1-vi.jpg"> <br> <br> <img src="http://images18.fotki.com/v437/photos/7/79987/7730214/2-vi.jpg">

This is now (one year later or so) ;) heelside feels better now, but still chattery on bumps <br> <br> <br>

Well guys, I am turning my young brother to carving, and I need a set of Cateks for this season. I am interested in Catek World Cup purple or black. I may consider Catek Olympic if the price is right. These are to be used with ski boots, so need to be long plates and standard bales. They need to be in good condition. Wold Cup bindings should have no teeth wear or signs of slipping on plates or heel/toe blocks (big issue, particularly on the purple ones), and not too much wear from cant screws (on either Olympic or WC). If you have any pics, would be great too. Thanks for help.

My friend is looking for: a softer freecarve board (not race) around 175-185cm, 20cm+ waist, 10-12m sidecut radius. Donek Axis 177 or 182 prefered. He is about 6'5'', 210 lb. 4 buckle Hard boots in 28-29 mondo size (Deeluxe Lemans prefered) Catek bindings, step-in or standard, long plates only. Either World Cup (black or purple), or Olympic. He is flexible on price range, anything from few years old to brand new. But he is looking for a good deal :) Please email me with specs, condition, price, and pictures if possible. Thanks. Stan. spretetsky@yahoo.com

I was worned this might happen, and it did. The season is almost here and I just realized that my heel block is stripped. Anyone has a spare? It needs have no signs of slipping/stripping and it has to be from a purple catek binding not newer black one black, as black Catek has different size teath. here are the pics. thanks. Stanislav P.S. My base plate seems to be OK

Hey, thank you all for your replies! I didn't expect this much feedback, it's great! I understand about rotating your body and having hands forward, but have been unable to do it. I just got my board and boots out and tried just standing on it, and it is the same story as before: the back boot seems to be too stiff and it prevents me from getting my back knee as low and as forword as I should to get the weight forword. It seems like I can get into the correct hill side form only if I completely unbukle the back boot. But then I don't have any side support at all and it feels too loose. I use salamon xwave 6.0 boots (80 flex) which are far less stiff then most expert ski boots, and catec bindings with a maximum lift on the back hill. Those of you who ride in stiff ski boots, do you have the same problem? I see picturs of perfect hill side turns where the back knee is almost touching the back of the front boot. There is no way I can come close to that with my boots unless I completely unbuckle them, and as I said before I cannot raise the back hill of my rear boot any more.

I wanted to get people's input on using skiboots for with alpine boards. I am an advanced skier who started alpine snowboarding last year. I decided to use my ski boots for snowboarding so I can easily switch between skis and snowboard during lunch hour, and to avoid paying for and dealing with an extra set of boots. The problem is that I have been having a hard time with my hill side turn. I have read all the tech articles and viewed many videos. But no matter what I try (including the "hold the edge" drill) I'm still unable to get my weight over the edge. I have a "toilet seat" sindrom :) , and as soon as I try to position my butt over the edge and my upper body rotated and forword, the rear of the board just washes out. I am wondering if my rear boot needs to be able to flex forward more then it does or if I just need to try harder. Any of you advanced riders ride ski boots? Should I be able to do it? Thanks for your help in advance. Pictures of my problem attached :)

Hey Alex, did you sell these already? If not, my friend wants them. Let me know. Stanislav.

Hey Dan, Yeah, I used them a couple of times and realized I need more forword angles on the back foot to work with my stiff ski boots. I got some Catecs and set max lift on the rear foot (over 8 deg!) and it is much better for me, yet I feel like I need to be even more forward on it. But then again, it's only been my 4th day carving alpine board, so it may be a skill thing. Oh, and, by the way, I am loving this whole carving thing! I've never been able to carve that low on skis. Pretty cool :D Anyway, did you sell the boots and the board?

sold

Thanks for all the replies. My friend changed his mind and decided not to sell the board. Go figure… Apologize for any inconvenience to all you guys. My SnoPro bindings are still available though. Check them out: http://www.bomberonline.com/VBulletin/showthread.php?s=&threadid=5925

Wavechaser, I went to the site you provided, and based on that: 7.8 means 178cm lenth 200 means 200mm waist width S means soft flex I may be wrong, but logicaly this makes sence.

The board is still available. The base has some small scratches, nothing that needs fixing. Edges are good too. I went to ups and fedex sites; both require postal code for destination address. So if you have that, I should be able to tell you how much it would cost to ship to Toronto. It is around $30 if I ship within US. Regarding the flex, hopefully you can see the picture with all the specs on the board. But I don't know what the 7.8 and 200s markings mean. I went on the web, but couldn't find any info on that. Sorry, and good luck.

These are stronger then Burton plates but will not dent your expensive boots like Cateks and Bombers do. The front lever is made of softer material and the rear bail is shaped to fit the boot better. Base plates are aluminum. Without shims the bindings have cant of about 3 deg and no lift. There are 2 lift shims and 2 cant shims included. Currently the bindings are setup with both lift shims on the rear binding and both cant shims stacked up together as one lift shim on the front binding (see pictures). You can rearrange the shims to fit them to your liking. All base plate bolts and alen range are included. I will throw in additional bolts of assorted length (not shown in the picture) in case you decide to experiment with cant/lift :). Price is $100 plus shipping. <img src="http://k.1asphost.com/spretetsky/IMG_3145.JPG" <img src="http://k.1asphost.com/spretetsky/snoproliftcant2.JPG"

This is my friend's board. He bought it brand new few years back (paid $410 originally) and only used it not more then 10 times. Both top and base are in great condition. See pictures for complete board specs. Price is $150 plus shipping. post your reply here, or better call Alexander directly (he doesn't have internet access) at 415 640-0833. He also has Burton Furnace hard boots that he would like to sell $80. Call him to get size info (around 28 I beleive) <img src="http://k.1asphost.com/spretetsky/IMG_3152.JPG"> <img src="http://k.1asphost.com/spretetsky/IMG_3153.JPG"> <img src="http://k.1asphost.com/spretetsky/burtonspecs.JPG">

I am setting up my first alpine board. I have snopro race bindings. Wanted to find out how to adjust the front bail set bolt. How far does the front lever need to travel past the tightest point before it touches the front of the boot and locks in. This binding acctually doesn't have adjustable set bolt. It just has a little plastic piece that I can leave or take out. The binding locks fine either way but with a bit more travel if I take the plastic peice out. Thanks for help. Stanislav.

Sorry for the hold-up, Ken. Please check your email.

Any older standard td1 or catecs available out there?

There are two reasons for thin waist (thin board, actually) design that I can think of: 1. As mentioned before -- faster transitions between turns, faster response. 2. Also, it is easier to manufacture a board with highest torsional stiffness and without effecting longitudinal stiffness, if the board is thin. The thicker the board the more negative effect it is going to have for torsional stiffness.