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spretetsky

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  1. Sale pending for the whole package. I will update on the weekend.
  2. Scratch, bomber tells me "user does not want to receive direct emails. you can email me (spretetsky at yahoo dot com) , and let me know the following: - are you interested in the board, bindings with kit, or everything? - Shipping address or at list city state and zip, so I can tell you shipping price. - If you want you can email me you number. That way I can respond faster.
  3. replys sent. I checked on internatinal shipping, and it is a pain in the ??? - extra forms, plus I cannot get an estimate... so US shipping only. Sorry.
  4. Update: no responce from the Catek buyer after what looked like a "done deal", so... everything is still up for sale.
  5. Sale pending for Cateks. Board is still up for grabs.
  6. Sent emails to all you guys. board and bindings are still available.
  7. $140 - Burton Factory Prime 173cm (no bindings) 20cm waist. Good condition. Top has minor scratches, but still looks great. Edges have plenty of metal left with no damage. Base has some scratches but nothing deep enough to need repair and no past repairs that I can see. $160 - Catek World Cup bindings (long plate) with second board kit and extra hoe/heel blocks Good condition.These have infinite amount of adjustability by means of 4 adjustment screws, with no need for Cant/lift disks. All mounting hardware is included - good for 3 or 4 hole mounting These bindings will fit all boot sizes (Catek made thinner/softer short plates to fit 10 and under size boots only) - Second board kit (not pictured, as I found it after taking all the pics) is an extra set of base disks with rubber rings and all the mounting hardware. This allows a quick remounting to second board with just unscrewing one big king bolt per binding. - "Olympic style" toe/heel blocks and original triangular blocks are included. (see pics. one of the pictures shows original blocks) I will sell everything above as a package for $280 Shipping is extra Located in Santa Rosa, CA. <br> <br> <img src="http://images9.fotki.com/v448/photos/7/79987/7730214/1-vi.jpg"> <br> <br> <img src="http://images18.fotki.com/v437/photos/7/79987/7730214/2-vi.jpg">
  8. This is now (one year later or so) ;) heelside feels better now, but still chattery on bumps <br> <br> <br>
  9. Well guys, I am turning my young brother to carving, and I need a set of Cateks for this season. I am interested in Catek World Cup purple or black. I may consider Catek Olympic if the price is right. These are to be used with ski boots, so need to be long plates and standard bales. They need to be in good condition. Wold Cup bindings should have no teeth wear or signs of slipping on plates or heel/toe blocks (big issue, particularly on the purple ones), and not too much wear from cant screws (on either Olympic or WC). If you have any pics, would be great too. Thanks for help.
  10. My friend is looking for: a softer freecarve board (not race) around 175-185cm, 20cm+ waist, 10-12m sidecut radius. Donek Axis 177 or 182 prefered. He is about 6'5'', 210 lb. 4 buckle Hard boots in 28-29 mondo size (Deeluxe Lemans prefered) Catek bindings, step-in or standard, long plates only. Either World Cup (black or purple), or Olympic. He is flexible on price range, anything from few years old to brand new. But he is looking for a good deal :) Please email me with specs, condition, price, and pictures if possible. Thanks. Stan. spretetsky@yahoo.com
  11. I was worned this might happen, and it did. The season is almost here and I just realized that my heel block is stripped. Anyone has a spare? It needs have no signs of slipping/stripping and it has to be from a purple catek binding not newer black one black, as black Catek has different size teath. here are the pics. thanks. Stanislav P.S. My base plate seems to be OK
  12. Hey, thank you all for your replies! I didn't expect this much feedback, it's great! I understand about rotating your body and having hands forward, but have been unable to do it. I just got my board and boots out and tried just standing on it, and it is the same story as before: the back boot seems to be too stiff and it prevents me from getting my back knee as low and as forword as I should to get the weight forword. It seems like I can get into the correct hill side form only if I completely unbukle the back boot. But then I don't have any side support at all and it feels too loose. I use salamon xwave 6.0 boots (80 flex) which are far less stiff then most expert ski boots, and catec bindings with a maximum lift on the back hill. Those of you who ride in stiff ski boots, do you have the same problem? I see picturs of perfect hill side turns where the back knee is almost touching the back of the front boot. There is no way I can come close to that with my boots unless I completely unbuckle them, and as I said before I cannot raise the back hill of my rear boot any more.
  13. I wanted to get people's input on using skiboots for with alpine boards. I am an advanced skier who started alpine snowboarding last year. I decided to use my ski boots for snowboarding so I can easily switch between skis and snowboard during lunch hour, and to avoid paying for and dealing with an extra set of boots. The problem is that I have been having a hard time with my hill side turn. I have read all the tech articles and viewed many videos. But no matter what I try (including the "hold the edge" drill) I'm still unable to get my weight over the edge. I have a "toilet seat" sindrom :) , and as soon as I try to position my butt over the edge and my upper body rotated and forword, the rear of the board just washes out. I am wondering if my rear boot needs to be able to flex forward more then it does or if I just need to try harder. Any of you advanced riders ride ski boots? Should I be able to do it? Thanks for your help in advance. Pictures of my problem attached :)
  14. Hey Alex, did you sell these already? If not, my friend wants them. Let me know. Stanislav.
  15. Hey Dan, Yeah, I used them a couple of times and realized I need more forword angles on the back foot to work with my stiff ski boots. I got some Catecs and set max lift on the rear foot (over 8 deg!) and it is much better for me, yet I feel like I need to be even more forward on it. But then again, it's only been my 4th day carving alpine board, so it may be a skill thing. Oh, and, by the way, I am loving this whole carving thing! I've never been able to carve that low on skis. Pretty cool :D Anyway, did you sell the boots and the board?
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